1MZ-FE into my MR2, Building a 3SGTE these days. Options

[Box]

Mmmm, wire tuck.

[95CelicaST]

To really sort out the harness, I need to get the transmission mated up.

In order to do that, I need the Fidanza flywheel out of the V6... That means we'll be yanking the engine this weekend (hopefully) and really making some movement towards completion.


Things we're going to try and accomplish this weekend:

- Remove engine and transmission
- Replace the friction surface in the Fidanza and mate the E153 to the 3S.
- Remove stock radiator and install Mishimoto unit
- Remove fuel tank and install the RacerX pump holder + Walbro + new -6 feed and return lines
- Clean the engine bay. A lot.


With another set of hands helping, I should be able to actually grab some photos.

[95CelicaST]

Today was the day. Today we ripped the engine out and checked to see what has broken over the last 7 years.

First thing we did was remove the tail lights and rear bumper, so we can get at the tow hooks for lifting the car up to the engine out from under.


Then it was disconnecting the electronics, draining the fluids, and lowering the engine down to the floor.




Aaaaaaand it’s out.



And cue the typical Washington weather. Good thing we set up a canopy.


So now the bay is empty. I should’ve done a tweak pose...



Then the tank got dropped out, after literally tearing the old AC lines out of the car. We slid it into the garage and swapped the fuel pump assemblies. We’ll make the -6 AN lines tomorrow and then slap the tank back in.


We didn’t get to the radiator, on the account of it pouring rain and the nose of the car was not under cover.

[95CelicaST]

Spent the day scrubbing the engine bay and installing the radiator. Radiator went in without much fuss.



After a few hours of degreasing the bay and scrubbing with various brushes, I have this:






I am ordering new coolant line and heater hose bits for the engine bay (there are a lot). That’ll take a few days. I’m going to start sanding the engine bay in prep for some paint (OEM color + clear) this week, and see if I can find one nice day to spray it. Not sure how that’ll all turn out, but I’m going to give it a go.

[Box]

Ah yes, the cooling system. So much fun to be had there on a MR2.

[95CelicaST]

I’ve spent the last two days sanding the engine bay in preparation for painting.

I did take a break yesterday afternoon and installed the first layer of sound dampening on the rear firewall. I’m installing the butyl layer, followed by a layer of closed cell foam. Foam will be here on Friday, so I’ll be able to put the interior back together then.



I also installed a set of turbo shift cables.




Some stuff set to arrive by Saturday:

-6 AN in/out fuel filter
More stainless hardware
New tabs for interior panels
.8 bar wastegate spring
All the new coolant hoses

[NgoFcukinWay]

what brand of sound deadening are you using? I'm thinking about picking up some stuff from Second Skin Audio to pair up with their Spectrum Sludge I already have on the car.

Maybe it's just me, but speaker grill looks like a flower. Pretty cool

[95CelicaST]

It is the budget Noico 80 mil stuff from Amazon.

I’m not a stereo guy, so I’m not going to spend big dollars on the fancy stuff... and to me, butyl is butyl.

[Bitter]

For that kind of sound damping you're not going to get a lot from butyl and foam, you need something more like mass loaded vinyl to actually absorb the sound and turn it into thermal energy (srsly, that's how MLV works). Butyl changes the mass of the panel to change the resonant frequency and shift it lower which helps quiet some white(ish) noise like wind and road noise from radiating through sheet metal panels. To quiet engine or exhaust noise which runs a wider gamut and is much louder you're not going to accomplish much changing the resonant frequency of the sheet metal, especially on a bulk head like that which already has few spans of sheet metal unsupported to vibrate sounds through well. You can buy stuff for floor underlayment that's vinyl mixed with fillers that you attach to closed cell foam and then put over the area. It's not as good as the actual mass loaded vinyl but it's inexpensive. If you've ever messed with that thick rubber backed foam under the dash of a Buick or Cadillac, that's MLV. They like to put it around the HVAC systems to quiet the blower motor noises.

Some thermal barrier might be a good idea, the foil backing itself will provide some deflection of heat and the foam will insulate some as well. Some Frostking FV516 makes an easy to apply thermal barrier that can also block a little sound, I like to use it to seal up door panels in lieu of the flappy plastic vapor barriers.

[95CelicaST]

The stock carpet piece that hangs on the rear firewall is made from MLV, with about a 1/2” of insulation behind it, so I won’t be heading out to get anymore. It should be pretty good with butyl under closed cell foam, under the stock MLV carpet piece.

I did use some of the extra stuff I had for the door panels, just didn’t take a picture of it.

[Bitter]

Yea you'll be good, just don't expect it to be like a bank vault with some added butyl, my experiences have been that it changes the tone but doesn't really alter the volume. Adding to door panels tends to make the bass punchier and the doors close with a nicer thud but doesn't do a lot for road noise, doing the floor pans if there's large spans without anything on them makes a decent difference, but if you're adding to stock stuff then the results are meh.

[95CelicaST]

It’s a cab made almost entirely of glass. I don’t expect it to be like my VW.


I did get most of the interior reinstalled this evening. I’m thinking about ditching the 12” sub behind the passenger seat and build a small box in the storage cubby behind the seat and put a 8” sub in it. Claim back some precious interior space.

[Bitter]

I'd say doing the roof would help but...T tops. :rofl:

Whatever you do certainly won't make it worse. I have noticed in both of my cars that FrostKing sealing the doors for the purposes of better audio (better separation between front and back of speaker) also netted what feels like better heat and AC since there's no air leaking into the cabin from the door panels anymore. That was a nice bonus in addition to the huge bump in sound from the speakers, made the aftermarket in the Mazda hit cleaner and made the stock in the Celica get lower without distorting.

[95CelicaST]

I pulled the engine lid cable out today and tucked it. I opened up an existing hole in the inside of the car behind the rear speaker, and ran it into there. The cable then runs all the way down the inside of the body and into the trunk, and through a small hole into the engine bay. Didn’t hook it up because of paint.

[95CelicaST]

[95CelicaST]

It was a nice day today, so I laid down the primer and basecoat.

I don’t have primer pics readily available, so I’ll insert them here later.
BAM


After a couple of hours, I came back and wet sanded the primer with 600 grit, and wiped it down.

Then came the fun part.






I ran out of basecpat before I could finish around the trunk, so more is on the way.

This post has been edited by 95CelicaST: Jun 4, 2018 - 4:44 PM

[njccmd2002]

oh my god, so sad.......

i came here to see the 1mz-fe, and just realized it was yanked out.... replaced with a 3sgte with rusted manifold., jk

but the red looks goob bro!

You are doing a fine job, keep up the good work

[95CelicaST]

I sprayed the clearcoat a couple of days ago, and did a small small amount of color sanding today. It’s not perfect, but not bad for my first paint job.

[Bitter]

Looks at least as bad as the factory paint job under hood of my Celica from Japan, so I'd say you're doing just fine!

[95CelicaST]

Ran into a bit of a snag over the last couple of weekends trying to get the transmission bolted up.

First, I thought I had ordered a 3S Fidanza flywheel way back when I did the 1MZ swap, but I never went to verify that. Turns out I was wrong, and it wouldn’t align with the 3S crank bolt pattern, so I had to order another flywheel.

This last weekend we couldn’t get the transmission to bolt up, no matter what we did. We quickly realized that it was due to the pilot bearing that comes with the clutch kit. It interferes with the input shaft. Since that bearing is only there to aid in clutch installation (but can’t be removed after the clutch is installed) we just threw it in the trash. So now the transmission is bolted up, and we’re working out the final bit of harness routing. This next weekend I believe the plan is to finish connecting the hoses up front on the radiator and wire the fans into the factory plugs, throw the gas tank back in, and install the new e-brake lines. Then it is all wiring. The fuse block needs to be relocated to the trunk, and some additional wiring needs to be added to the body harness, then the connectors that go from the engine harness to the fuse block will be extended to run back through the body plug to meet it in the trunk.