Needle's progression thread Options

[Needles]

im trying to fool the cpu to avoid code 54, in this shema, (this is the plug shema for water inc pump)

1- does someone knows what "E" mean ?
2- what mean the number on the relay?
3- can i go buy a custom relay or create one or its useless (85-87-86-30)?

[Needles]

new stuff !!
my new intake is almost done


btw , i think im going blue and yellow for engine part

This post has been edited by Needles: May 14, 2011 - 11:51 AM

[delusionz]

1. e= earth

2. the numbers are the numbers on the pins of the particular relay they use in that diagram, i assume its an automotive relay of a certain amperage rating and just a single circuit breaker which will have pins labeled those numbers.

3. i think u can use any automotive relay (in that configuration in the diagram) thats 12 volts and has a single circuit breaker, cant see any reason why not.

but you really should wire it in like stock, even if you have to cut the connector off the water pump and use an aftermarket connector, it's just so much better for your ecu to know whats going on so it can protect itself. trust me i just had my engine overheat and blew the seals in my turbo so i bought a new turbo because the one i had wasnt worth rebuilding

[Needles]

1. e= earth

2. the numbers are the numbers on the pins of the particular relay they use in that diagram, i assume its an automotive relay of a certain amperage rating and just a single circuit breaker which will have pins labeled those numbers.

3. i think u can use any automotive relay (in that configuration in the diagram) thats 12 volts and has a single circuit breaker, cant see any reason why not.

but you really should wire it in like stock, even if you have to cut the connector off the water pump and use an aftermarket connector, it's just so much better for your ecu to know whats going on so it can protect itself. trust me i just had my engine overheat and blew the seals in my turbo so i bought a new turbo because the one i had wasnt worth rebuilding

yeah i saw what happen to your turbo.. thats bad . i have hard trooble finding how get rid of code 54, but later, i will try to fix it the good way, whit original, wiring, but , i dont have the cpu intercooler and i cant find the part now
im gonna try to fake the cpu, but i will check my pump very often if i do so

here is some nice thing to know when getting rid of code 54:

Solving Code 54 For Continuous Intercooler Operation
So you connected the intercooler pump to ignition power and now got a Code 54, and now you can't find it in the maintinance manual? Well the "easiest" way to get rid of it is by using a 20w, 12v indicator globe (light bulb!) on the original wires from the ECU. Or a ceramic resistor that would fall into that power range, as described below.
Well it's done...I finally hacked the stubborness of the GRP A, CS, RC ECU!!! The mod is a permanent one i did using 2 ceramic resistors to fool the ECU into thinking the water pump for the intercooler is still connected. The globe worked great, BUT a globe can blow out, and you will get a fault code in your ECU again. For anyone who wants to do this mod the specs are as follows for the resistors you will need.

Ceramic wirewound resistors - 17w 15r (not sure what the 15r stands for) avaliable from RS Components PN : 206-1647 @ $8.60 for a pack of 5. Any electronics part supplier should carry these resistors in stock.

To install, you must find the intercooler pump, then follow the wires up towards the battery (makes the job a lot easier to remove the battery) and behind the headlight. Find what one is the positve terminal...mine was the black wire on the AU ST 185 GRP A. To do this, start the car and blip the throttle wide open, and if you have a test light in one of the wires the positive one will light up the test lamp. Mark that wire, as you will later connect it to the ignition. Then cut the wires off completely, but leave enough so you can work with them.

Then wire two (2) of the resistors in parallel, that means you get the outside wire on one resistor and solder it to the SAME wire on the other resistor and do this for the inside wire as well. Then make a mounting bracket, I made one out of a strip of aluminium. Get some 5 minute epoxy and glue the resistors to the bracket, and when set, wrap with 2 zip/cable ties to hold it all together. Install the bracket with the resistors to somewhere that can handle some heat as the resistors get warm to hot. I rivited mine on the steel chassis behind the headlight facing the battery.

Connect the wires from the ECU to the resistors and solder in place. The polarity is not an issue, either way will do. Cover the soldered wires in heat shrink or electrical tape to stop it shorting out.

Connect the positive wire from the pump to constant ignition and the other to a good earth and solder all connections as moisture can be a problem if not soldered. Re-install the battery, and if you didn't pull it out, pull the fuse and relay out for the ECU (in the little fuse and relay box next to the battery) for a minute or two just to be sure and erase any previous codes that may be stored. Re-install the fuse and relay and go for a test drive.

You should have NO engine check light. When you return, do a dignostic check (little grey box, between the strut tower and the firewall). This is done by using a piece of wire and slotting one end into the socket marked "TE1" and the other end is slotted into the other socket marked "E1" .

Then go into the car and turn the key to "ignition" and the engine check light will flash a code IF there is a fault. For example, if it is a code 54 - that means there is a problem in the intercooler circuit, the light will flash 5 times, followed by a little break of about a second and another 4 flashes, then a big break of about 3 seconds. This code will repeat over and over if you have one.

I doubt you will have a code 54 though . Happy cool intercooling!!

source http://www.gt4dc.co.uk/website/development...hp#MaintCode54B

This post has been edited by Needles: May 14, 2011 - 12:58 PM

[Needles]

i saw deluzion plumb back the bov in the intake just before the turbo, but the original is plumb back in the filter,
when u release the gas pedal, and the bov release the extra pressure, does it better to plumb it back where the filter is and not near the turbo ?
since when you release the pedal, u dont need pressure, and your engine need to release the extra pressure, maybe ist not good to plumb back direct in turbo...

This post has been edited by Needles: May 17, 2011 - 8:55 AM

[delusionz]

if you see the HKS, Blitz, Apex'i & etc kits while they do place the bov near the filter, it's only to retain the stock bov pipe for a true bolt in kit and what you'll notice is that it's aimed towards the turbo instead of the filter like this



the idea of aiming towards the turbo is to keep it spinning, and give it enough air to give you better response when you quickly reapply throttle. Everything will equal out so if one end becomes a high pressure zone, air will quickly escape to the low pressure zone at the other end. Thats where it makes the tututushhhhh sound if you dont get back on the throttle, otherwise theres hardly any bov sound at all because the turbo reuses the air.

Naturally theres always a very slight amount of compressor surge, it's normal and this is no different. The dangerous one is where a full amount of boost at high revs backs up against the compressor with no BOV at all

This post has been edited by delusionz: May 17, 2011 - 9:13 PM

[Needles]

thank for reply deluzionzzss

im outta myself, about 4 time now my front hybrid axle slide out while i put them on (the ball bearing assembly slip out of socket in inner shatf).. i read all the trhead and i didnt find people having trooble instaling it, i took out all the spendel and took off the suspension, fix it back together, everithing seems fine, and then at thje end it pop out, whats wrong, i got st185 shatf outter mr2 inner and mr2 lsd tranny, is that normal

im about to put back my s54 and my super cool easy install axle for s54 ****ty

This post has been edited by Needles: May 18, 2011 - 11:09 PM

[Needles]

just one little update,

intake installed,
mobil 1 oil and filter in
new fuel filter,



i just need to put one more axle on and
fix the leak at lower fuel filter connection (new filter, still leak there)
and i still need to do new socket for the bolt of the rear transmission mount(stripped)
need by two inch my exhaust longer to fit the downpipe,
need fix the leak of power steering (didnt had time to check it, maybe seal of plug)
put my new battery

and im ready to go, still , the shifter whit gt cable whit mr2 lsd is kinda crap... maybe some spacer where it connect to transmission?)

[Needles]

[Needles]

This post has been edited by Needles: Jun 24, 2011 - 11:57 AM

[Needles]

hey ! i just buy new samsung 1080p so i can bring clear nice picture now, here some update

boots front axles fix !!
i move the car for the first time today try to shift and its kinda ..good but * small* shiftting movement due to gt cable
but all gear get in not that hard !
fuel leak fix, for now, let say i didnt put teflon fuel resistant into connection....
water inc pump plug and fix
start to put inside console of car back on , but i will leave the back of the car empty , no seat nothing
i know ididnt put much nice stuff on it , but it was not my intention, at first and some ppl car engine built is a lot nicer, in fact i dont very have much money, i spend all did i had ,on my car since 6 month ago, and it was the only way for me to reach this goal,

here are the result for now after 4000$ of modification, repair, fix, gremlin, (this include the repair on the 5sfe) on a 1300$ car
all job done by myself






my boost gauge tap point

















i broke my front upper grill to open the hood since the cord there just broke and the wind close my hood lolol, i will modify that part of the bumper anyway, may cut the original front gt4 grill and to fit the hood and stick it in the middle

This post has been edited by Needles: May 24, 2011 - 6:38 PM

[mak5603]

Nice swap. But get a freaking gauge pod, lol.

[Needles]

Nice swap. But get a freaking gauge pod, lol.

lol ! right sir i dunno if i will do some custom gauge pod or try to find the one who fit the left side front window

This post has been edited by Needles: May 25, 2011 - 7:16 PM

[Needles]

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

[Needles]

yesterday i did ride the 3sgte for the very first time, (the only 3gen 3sgte i ever seen installed in a car anyway)

had full of problem, but not that bad

water pump work whit inside switch (alone !)
fuel pump is b+ fp direct connect
have not finish the recirculation of intake
had my exhaust 3 time to the shop to make it fit, but i need to cut it again cause it not bolt easely to the downpipe
my power steering leaking at the pump connection (didnt had time to check it)
didnt had time to install the code54 solution
need to fix a lot of other little thing,
get my seat higher, get my axle fix again (the car is shaking and its knocking from the front after 2k rpm and when i press gas for power, but its not knocking when i get to 70 km/h and stay smooth on gas



its really not the same car, when i took it

it felt so beast that almost scare me, when u push the gas, its like your seat gonna take you to the sky, the only thing thing this car missing is some wing and i think it gonna fly....

[enderswift]

good job bud. Nothing beats the satisfaction you did everything on your own

[NYp8tBaller07]

very nice, and what did you do to fix your rust, I have the same problem =(

[Needles]

very nice, and what did you do to fix your rust, I have the same problem =(

thats is easy in basic

i use bondo putty, but sometimes renforced whit fiberglass
u will have to practice and know to do putty,

first, you will have to grind all the rust from the fender, make large pass whit the grinder to keep your line right, this part is easy,keep the shape of the car, after you will have to find a way to get rid of all the rust you can see down there, i did use spinning metal brush for the finition (little hole of rust is the worst) go whit the sander, 60 to 220 grind, sand it a bit, and after make it clean (is you use water, use hot water and dry it carefully after) importaNT here is to get rid of all rust and all dust.

now u have that big hole in front of you and you want to patch it, if you are not sure if some rust still left cut around the hole whit the grinder,
buy some aluminium sheet, (15$) and cut it , put it where the hole is, make some hole for the srew whit your tool (hold the piece there and make all the hole for all scew you want to have, at least 3 srew) make sure shape the piece to keep the shape , its easyer after whit the putty: here is your own choice to put the aluminium inside or outside, for some hole i put it inside and for other outside, remember that putting it inside , you will need a lot of puutty and work, putting it outside can change the shape of your car



after the hole is cover whit the plate, you can start to work whit the putty ( expecting you knowing how lol ) you can start from the back wheel fender and make pas to redisigned your car, you have to be good if there was big hole, dont put too much putty, the sanding gonna be nightmare,start whit fiberglass renforced putty, and finish whit finition putty, ho and you can grind the scew that leave there whit the grinder after the plate hold whit putty

for the sanding sta whit 120 or like, and make large pass always in the same way , donmt push too hard and that is long job, when you get your shape, change to 220, and after, let it dry, check the inperfection, clean it, whit some stuff, put putty where it needed, and start again sand, at the end finish whit 400

shooting some primer of your choice, after you shoot the primer you can clearly see the imperfection, and you start over and over...

after that you paint it, for me, the picture was take after one winter of driving after the job done

as for the bottom door
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=79144

This post has been edited by Needles: May 28, 2011 - 12:31 AM

[NYp8tBaller07]

Nice thankyou, I have agood amount of work to be done so this helps =)

[Needles]

st205 shifter cable needed
also, im gonna take my true first ride now, dont have the powert steering, but im gonna see what this engine have in the chest, code54 not solve wet, maybe later today, ho and exhaust is not bolt to downpipe, i need to cut again the exhaust to make it fix

This post has been edited by Needles: Jun 12, 2011 - 9:58 AM