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> Never MIND! I'm done with this car., car being sold or scraped.
post Dec 23, 2010 - 6:40 PM
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Tech-Nics

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***Thanks everyone, but never mind. I'm leaving the Toyota Celica and JDM scene now. Going to a 330CI Bimmer with A LOT less miles and A LOT newer car. Thanks again for your replies. I just don't want this car anymore...

This post has been edited by Tech-Nics: Jan 5, 2011 - 2:59 PM
post Dec 23, 2010 - 6:47 PM
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PolliS_5S-FE

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How long ago was it you changed the ign coil?
post Dec 23, 2010 - 7:08 PM
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Tech-Nics

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last week IGN coil was replaced.
post Jan 5, 2011 - 9:02 AM
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tjblacrosse



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You could have any number of problems there. Anywhere from wrong A/F mix, improper timing, soiled/corroded plugs, needs oil, possibly alternator output issue, etc. Start by checking some of the obvious things that keep the car running once running and then if you don't have any luck, come back to the forum and see if anyone can help from there. Good luck!


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-Tyler
post Jan 5, 2011 - 10:35 AM
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bccentaur3



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Internal coil correct? check the resistance on the coil again. If not it could possibly be you pickup coil inside the dizzy. It happened to me.


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98 Celica gt red- totaled deer
94 Celica st black DD (bad weather beater)- totaled deer
95 Celica gt silver- chassis sold
88 Celica All-Trac (Burned to a crisp)
94 Celica gt white (sold)

In need of a rust free chassis!!!!
post Jan 5, 2011 - 1:53 PM
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Hanyo

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QUOTE (Tech-Nics @ Dec 23, 2010 - 3:40 PM) *
Best I can explain this:

About a month ago my 94 GT (5s-FE) engine started stalling on me while driving. What happens is after driving the car for semi long distance like 14+ miles when coming to a stop or a light the car stalls. Then it won't turn back on! It will only crank and not fire. This only happens when I drive for more than 15+ minuets. So when I come to a complete stop and sit there for a second or too the car will completely shut off and all the lights on the dash will come on, like before you start a car. Then I put it in "P" to try to start it and it only cranks and it won't start. After giving up trying to start it. I push it off to the side and sit there for about 15-30 minuets. Then when I try to start it, it starts right up and can driving again until it stalls. Sometimes the car is able to start up soon than 15-30 minuets but its rare. I took the car to the shop regarding this problem. Now I been going to this shop for 10 years with 4 different cars I've owned and they always gave me good repairs and the cars lasted until I sell them. I took the car to the shop and told them about the problem. They said they need the car stalled in order to be able to figure out whats cause it to stall. It didn't stall when they had it so they didn't do nothing to it. I noticed when I almost come to a stop the idle drops very low near stall. Now I also noticed my O/D light was blinking on my cluster when I had it in "N" at the light. I had it on "N" at the light to rev the engine and keep the idle from going to low and causing it to stall out. I noticed the idle drops when I come to stops harder. It feels like the car is gonna stall while the AUTOMATIC transmission is down shifting back to 1st when coming to a stop.

I had the following changed regarding this matter since it started:

*IGN coil
*Radiator (cause it was leaking coolant)
*Fuel filter

In the last 1.5 years I changed the following changed:

*Starter
*IGN wires
*Distributor
*Timing belt
*Water pump
*O ring

The car is still stalling. Might get a new car in JAN if this ain't fixed fast!



I had a similar problem with one of the cars I've worked on. The car would drive fine most of the time but when rolling to a stop the car would stall. You can start the car up right afterwards and it would drive fine.
The problem ended up being a internal transmission line disconnected. This line supplied fluid to the tranmission for kick down operations. I guess the only way to test for this is to shift it into neutral on all hard decelleration and see if anything changes with the idle.

If your idle is affected with the transmission is in nuetral we can rule out that as the cause of the problem.

When was the last time you change the fuel pump and strainer in the gas tank. When your breaking hard you can slush the debris in the gas tank around and clog up the fuel strainer in the gas tank.
post Jan 5, 2011 - 2:52 PM
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Tech-Nics

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Never mind guys...thanks anyways.. I had it with this car. I'm getting a new car in a few weeks. I'm getting rid of this car. Time to move on to something more from this century. Ive spent way to much money, more than what this car is worth. I'm moving to a BMW.

Later ALL!

OH! I'll be stripping my car down of all the JDM stuff then sell it once its back to USDM spec or scrap it. Its been taken off the road for good!
post Jan 5, 2011 - 3:54 PM
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richee3



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That sucks to hear about your car... BMW's have some wiring problems but on the whole, they are good cars. Some days I wish I had a 330 instead of my IS 300. Good luck with the Bimmer and be sure to stick around.


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"Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others labored hard for." -Socrates. Even Socrates told us to use the search button!

2006 Aston Martin V8 Vantage.
1998 Celica GT-
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post Jan 5, 2011 - 9:23 PM
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Smaay

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bite your tongue, how dare you say something like that. you have a 2JZ in there.


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2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed
1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap
1990 Celica All-Trac
post Jan 5, 2011 - 10:41 PM
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Araykhel

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QUOTE (richee3 @ Jan 5, 2011 - 4:54 PM) *
That sucks to hear about your car... BMW's have some wiring problems but on the whole, they are good cars. Some days I wish I had a 330 instead of my IS 300. Good luck with the Bimmer and be sure to stick around.


I have an '06 330i, its a wild thing but the gas alone keeps me hugging my 6gc.
post Jan 6, 2011 - 3:44 PM
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HectortheRican



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I'm sorry to hear about that frown.gif But good luck with your new car!


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taking too long to mod since '09
June '12 COTM
'95 AT200

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