Putting a 94 ST back together, input needed Options

[chriskm]

Updated 1/14 @ 6AM (who needs sleep when you have an awesome project car?)

Okay, since this place has all the 6th gen experts and is obviously more generation-specific than my native CelicaTech, I'm going to post some pictures of things I'm just not sure about... if for nothing else, than to log my questions in a productive place. I have searched but yielded no solid answers to my many questions, but if I happen to find answers, I will post them here. I have the manual available on CelicaTech, as well as access to AllData/ShopKey.
The subforums here are pretty broad, so please excuse me if I'm posting out of place.
I have pictures to accompany most of my questions, and will be linking to them instead of using IMG tags. The pictures are 960x540 or 800x600.

A little background on the car: I purchased this 104k-mile 1994 ST automatic coupe from a local for $500. I have experience with the 5sfe, 3sgte, and 4age20v engines... so I figured this would be a walk in the park. Car hasn't ran in some 7 years. There was an issue with the crank pulley supposedly being welded to the block on the old engine, so it was replaced with a ~30k-mile JDM 7AFE. The engine is bolted into the bay, and kind of runs. There were some cut/spliced wires around the engine bay: one was at the starter, wired to a push button, another at the neutral safety switch on a black and yellow wire. I pulled both connectors and repaired the wires. Jumping the terminals in the diagnostic port shows no codes.

So here are some issues I'm still having trouble with.

1. Shift Interlock: Car does not start with the key, hence the push button. When I shut the car off, I cannot remove the key without removing the battery.
A Prolock immobilizer was installed, and there was no fob to deactivate it. Removed it, and it start up. That push button was also spiced into IGN 1, which is apparently a bad thing.

2. Transmission shift cable: Is there supposed to be a bracket that holds the cable in place? I have searched toyodiy.com and cannot find a dead-giveaway part description. I am assuming I am missing something that should be in this picture.
http://km.celicatech.com/images/6gc/100_0065.JPG

3. Speedometer and tachometer do not work. Temperature and gas gauges work, as well as the rest of the instrument panel.

4. There is a black wire running near the engine bay fuse box.
This was actually just a loose piece of wire that didn't go to anything. After I removed the front bumper, I could pull it loose.

5. The pre-cat oxygen sensor wire connector is missing. I do not know where this routes from.
http://km.celicatech.com/images/6gc/100_0048.JPG

6. There is a grey shielded wire leading out of the engine bay harness near the fuse box. It has an insulated white wire inside of it, with another wire (possibly shielding).
http://km.celicatech.com/images/6gc/100_0060.JPG

7. There is a teal-ish colored connector on the backside of the intake manifold. I'm not sure what this is, but I haven't looked it up yet. I do not know what connector goes to this, or if it is applicable to my JDM 7AFE.
I think this is an EGR VSV, p/n 90910-12169. I can't find that part number on google, ebay, 1sttoyotaparts or lithiatoyotaparts, so I can't reference it. I looked up the wires in the wiring diagram, which conveniently just says "top rear of engine" without listing what it is. WTF Toyota.
http://km.celicatech.com/images/6gc/100_0062.JPG

8. There are two vacuum hoses on the rear of the engine near the firewall that I am unsure of. Possibly a VSV I have yet to hook up. They appear to be connected to the power steering pump.
http://km.celicatech.com/images/6gc/100_0063.JPG

9. Two connectors near the throttle body; one grey, one orange/brown.
Grey connector is for the EGR valve that is not used on JDM engines. Other connector is for an EGR Control Solenoid, p/n 90910-12141.
http://km.celicatech.com/images/6gc/100_0064.JPG

10. Bolted to the intake manifold is a ground wire connector that I can't find a mate to. There is also a similar connector on the valve cover. One of these might not be in the right place, but I'd like verification before I just start removing things.
The ground wire connected to the valve cover wasn't the factory location. Connected the factory ground wire to chassis ground.

11. Engine will not start without starter fluid or gas spray in the throttle body. Once started, it will stay running. Jumping +B and FP, I can hear the pump running.

12. Engine fans automatically turn on when battery is connected. Only way to turn them off is to pull the relays or disconnect the battery.

13. I found the AC Idle-Up VSV (p/n 192000-3042) laying in the bay, so I hooked it to its mount. One of the hoses goes to the intake manifold, so now what does that other vacuum nipple go to?

That's all I can think, or atleast all I have pictures of right now. Any input is appreciated.

This post has been edited by chriskm: Jan 15, 2011 - 6:17 PM

[njccmd2002]

10 the ground wire goes to the chassis..

some of those extra wires are that, extra. you would have to get help from an st guy since im not familiar with the engine. those conectors in 9 are u sure there not from the speed sensor and maybe a throttle sensor thats missing?

best way is to compare engines side by side. sorry not much help here...

[chriskm]

Are there two wires that go to the chassis ground on the passenger side? One is already connected, but like I said, is attached to the valve cover where it may not belong.

I have two sensors left to hook up, but I honestly haven't looked at them. I just had these pictures and since I'm already online, I figured I'd post 'em up.

Manda was nice enough to send me some pictures, so I'll be looking through them and comparing engines.

[jlive]

9. The two connectors near your throttle body are most likely the TPS sensor connector and the IAC valve connector. The IAC is under the throttle body and the TPS is aft of the throttle body, both are connected to the throttle body. I believe the connectors are keyed so you don't mix them up.

[chriskm]

9. The two connectors near your throttle body are most likely the TPS sensor connector and the IAC valve connector. The IAC is under the throttle body and the TPS is aft of the throttle body, both are connected to the throttle body. I believe the connectors are keyed so you don't mix them up.

These are neither the TPS or IAC. Both of those connectors are hooked up. The TPS connector is also black.
I'm thinking they belong to either the idle-up valve, EGR vacuum modulator that now is useless, and/or the vacuum switching valve.

I really appreciate the answers you guys have given me so far.

This post has been edited by chriskm: Jan 14, 2011 - 2:32 AM

[chriskm]

Found out why it wouldn't start with the key: Prolock immobilizer, and I don't have the keyfob to that. Cut it out and spliced the starter wire back together, and it fires up.

[njccmd2002]

more info on that prolock inmobilizer please.

[presure2]

#2, there is a small bracket that attaches to the crossmember that holds the shifter cable, but it normally breaks off the first time you remove the crossmember.

#3 check the plug for the speed sensor on the tranny. (its on the back of the tranny, above the rear mount, its a 3 wire plug.)

#6 looks like the kind of wire that would be used for a knock sensor, or distributor wiring (they are both shielded from the factory, but the factory knock sensor wiring has a "clear" sheilded wire inside the outter sheilding, and the distributor has 4 or 5 wires in there IIRC.)

#8 are the 2 lines from the PS pump. one side goes to the intake manifold, the other goes to a bypass hardline that gets intake air.
you can pull them both off th PS pump, and just make sure there are no open spots for vac leaks on the motor. all that valve does is create a vac leak, when you turn the steering to full lock, so that your RPM's dont go down at all from the load placed on the motor.

#12, it does that with no key in the ignition? if so, sounds like the fan relay has been bypassed somehow. (the fans will run constantly with the key in the on position if the a/c pressure switch is unplugged, its on the a/c line up by the boot that goes thru the firewall on the passanger side, behind the strut tower.

#13 one goes to the IM, the other goes to an intake air source.

[chriskm]

more info on that prolock inmobilizer please.

There was a black box behind the bottom dash / crash pad. It visibly said "PROLOCK" on it. Google told me that they went out of business in '07, and never sold replacement keys. The box itself was attached to ground, with a red wire and blue wire spliced into the ends of the Black/White starter wire.
I removed this box, reconnected the starter wire, and it cranks up. No starter fluid needed anymore, either.

#2, there is a small bracket that attaches to the crossmember that holds the shifter cable, but it normally breaks off the first time you remove the crossmember.

#3 check the plug for the speed sensor on the tranny. (its on the back of the tranny, above the rear mount, its a 3 wire plug.)

#6 looks like the kind of wire that would be used for a knock sensor, or distributor wiring (they are both shielded from the factory, but the factory knock sensor wiring has a "clear" sheilded wire inside the outter sheilding, and the distributor has 4 or 5 wires in there IIRC.)

#8 are the 2 lines from the PS pump. one side goes to the intake manifold, the other goes to a bypass hardline that gets intake air.
you can pull them both off th PS pump, and just make sure there are no open spots for vac leaks on the motor. all that valve does is create a vac leak, when you turn the steering to full lock, so that your RPM's dont go down at all from the load placed on the motor.

#12, it does that with no key in the ignition? if so, sounds like the fan relay has been bypassed somehow. (the fans will run constantly with the key in the on position if the a/c pressure switch is unplugged, its on the a/c line up by the boot that goes thru the firewall on the passanger side, behind the strut tower.

#13 one goes to the IM, the other goes to an intake air source.

Thank you so much, man.
#2: Do you happen to have a picture or part number for that bracket, or know where I can buy one? I can't shift gears without it.
#3: The speed sensor is connected. That's the first thing I checked. I haven't run electrical tests on it, though. I will be doing that today.
#12: As soon as I hook up the battery, the fans come on. They will not turn off at all, unless the relay is removed or the battery is disconnected. I cannot see any wire spliced in the fan connector.

[chriskm]

I haven't touched the car in like a week and a half. Whoops.

Went out to the garage today and twiddled with it.

Tachometer works now. I took out the gauge cluster to clean it off and check bulbs, then removed the speed sensor. Once everything was back together, I started it and the tach works. I'm assuming the speedometer works, but I won't know until I put everything back together.

Either I have a crack in my exhaust manifold, or there's just something on it that needs to burn off. There's a small amount of burny smoke on the #2 runner.
Idled the car for a few minutes, exhaust is a little smoky. Definitely condensation, 'cause I have a black watery puddle near the tailpipe.

Still cannot pull the key out of the ignition until the battery is disconnected, even with the shifter in Park. Haven't found the cable bracket, so I have to push the neutral safety switch lever through PRND2L.

With the battery disconnected, the car still runs, but if the brights are turned on, it stalls. I'm not ruling out the possibility that it's because one of my headlight bulbs are blown.

I also found out that I have a Toyota OEM sunroof visor/shield/whatever it's called.

So... yeah, that's about it for now. I need to install the air box and stuff, look for any remaining vacuum leaks, and fill the tires before I can take it for a test drive.

[chriskm]

Bought 4mdabay's rear bumper, and picking up a trans cable bracket from dennshin. Just got to wait for them to get here.

Fixed some grounds, so now the car won't stall when the battery's disconnected.

Tightened up the exhaust manifold bolts, so no more leak.

Power steering pump is still leaking, need to get new crush washers for that.

Still can't pull the key out of the ignition until I disconnect the battery. Going to tweak the neutral safety switch in a bit to see if that solves the issue.

I'm missing the bolt that goes through the rear transmission mount, so there's a bit of vibration. Mount looks good though.

Also missing the clip on the axle boot, and I'm pretty sure it's not lubed. Good thing I towed it to my garage instead of drove it.

This post has been edited by chriskm: Feb 1, 2011 - 10:38 AM

[manda]

Hey KM, If you're still workin on getting the engine together correctly I'll be back in ATL March 12-20 so I can bring Fury down to you and you can take a look at what I've got. Dunno if it'll help you too much or if you've got most of it taken care of, but let me know and we can find a time for me to bring her down at some point that week