GT-FOUR El Franjeado, EFR turbo etcq Options

[Neon90424]

something seems to be horribly wrong going on in the valve cover...

a buddy told me that his subaru's valves kept getting beat to **** because of launch control and that nitrided valves solved the problem I only have the BC SS valves...not nitrided, going to the shop and tearing the head off this sumbish

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 27, 2012 - 7:34 AM

[bsamps4]

Damn dude that sux! Guess there's no such thing as a cheap build once you add all the parts and labor together. Vids when this thing is streetable!

[Neon90424]

I spun 2 bearings and scratched up the other 2.

eagle rods are scratched to **** as well under the bearings...no one down here can machine forged rods from what I hear but i am getting a used set of eagles off the 600hp Caldina who switched them out for 1200hp rods so they should be ok and 220$...

crank is scratched so it has to be machined. valve cover is fine. the CF hatch has its glass on and is set up just fine.

the efr is great. the datalogger showed everything is fine, The diff cushion will be replaced as well and I will plug the holes in my tank, its gonna be a long next week, got to get those acl bearings here pronto once I know what size to order.

[mandrek]

something seems to be horribly wrong going on in the valve cover...

a buddy told me that his subaru's valves kept getting beat to **** because of launch control and that nitrided valves solved the problem I only have the BC SS valves...not nitrided, going to the shop and tearing the head off this sumbish

I spun 2 bearings and scratched up the other 2.

eagle rods are scratched to **** as well under the bearings...no one down here can machine forged rods from what I hear but i am getting a used set of eagles off the 600hp Caldina who switched them out for 1200hp rods so they should be ok and 220$...

crank is scratched so it has to be machined. valve cover is fine. the CF hatch has its glass on and is set up just fine.

the efr is great. the datalogger showed everything is fine, The diff cushion will be replaced as well and I will plug the holes in my tank, its gonna be a long next week, got to get those acl bearings here pronto once I know what size to order.

Hmmm i wonder why?... ugh.. seeing this kind of stuff just makes me sick.. so much for that "cheap parts build. SA style"... to such an awesome car that i could only ever dream of having here (in the USA) getting molested and destroyed turns my stomach.. u can flame me all you want, and you can say that if i dont want to see i dont have to read the thread.. but i am only saying what others have hinted to and or are already thinking.. you are not a "tuner" if all you do is just keep throwing money at it, and expect it to "go fast".. or dont do your home work, make a plan, and follow the plan...

there is a reason why you keep destroying this motor/car... and this point you should honestly heed the advice and STOP.... take a break.. PAUSE.... get another motor.. and start from fresh.
and this time..
* make a plan..
* Do ALL your research ahead of time, so you can stop wasting money.. see you will need for your goals..
* buy EVERYTHING before you even start.. so that way all you have to do it get some misc stuff (like anyone has to) and you will not be tempted to drive a partially built car before it is ready. (or tuned.. again)
* salvage what parts you can from the other motor..
* address ALL issues that you have already encountered and may run into BEFORE you even touch the new motor..

*and last but not least LISTEN to the advice that the people on this forum and MR2OC.com are telling you..

rant done..

i hope i don't have to see this kind of raping of a motor again..

flame on.....

[Neon90424]

something seems to be horribly wrong going on in the valve cover...

a buddy told me that his subaru's valves kept getting beat to **** because of launch control and that nitrided valves solved the problem I only have the BC SS valves...not nitrided, going to the shop and tearing the head off this sumbish

I spun 2 bearings and scratched up the other 2.

eagle rods are scratched to **** as well under the bearings...no one down here can machine forged rods from what I hear but i am getting a used set of eagles off the 600hp Caldina who switched them out for 1200hp rods so they should be ok and 220$...

crank is scratched so it has to be machined. valve cover is fine. the CF hatch has its glass on and is set up just fine.

the efr is great. the datalogger showed everything is fine, The diff cushion will be replaced as well and I will plug the holes in my tank, its gonna be a long next week, got to get those acl bearings here pronto once I know what size to order.

Hmmm i wonder why?... ugh.. seeing this kind of stuff just makes me sick.. so much for that "cheap parts build. SA style"... to such an awesome car that i could only ever dream of having here (in the USA) getting molested and destroyed turns my stomach.. u can flame me all you want, and you can say that if i dont want to see i dont have to read the thread.. but i am only saying what others have hinted to and or are already thinking.. you are not a "tuner" if all you do is just keep throwing money at it, and expect it to "go fast".. or dont do your home work, make a plan, and follow the plan...

there is a reason why you keep destroying this motor/car... and this point you should honestly heed the advice and STOP.... take a break.. PAUSE.... get another motor.. and start from fresh.
and this time..
* make a plan..
* Do ALL your research ahead of time, so you can stop wasting money.. see you will need for your goals..
* buy EVERYTHING before you even start.. so that way all you have to do it get some misc stuff (like anyone has to) and you will not be tempted to drive a partially built car before it is ready. (or tuned.. again)
* salvage what parts you can from the other motor..
* address ALL issues that you have already encountered and may run into BEFORE you even touch the new motor..

*and last but not least LISTEN to the advice that the people on this forum and MR2OC.com are telling you..

rant done..

i hope i don't have to see this kind of raping of a motor again..

flame on.....

the bearings went and not the valves... the valve train was fine. Probably from the time my oil hose blew i starved it it for a few seconds and the car hadn't been started since. we plugged in the datalogger yesterday tune had nothing to do with the failure. I don't see why I have to buy a new engine just because I spun a bearing, I forged the engine just fine and had a aeroquip hose blow off. Who said I was a tuner? im not the one tuning the car. I do read everything you guys put and on mr2oc as well.

I forged the internals,put ARP bolts head and main, complete head rebuild with all brian crower parts, complete gasket set and hks timing belt, new silicone hoses all around, already has large rad I had it cleaned, put on a custom oil cooler, upgraded the intercooler rad, new fuel system (has the aeromotive 340lph but a custom fuel up 1000hp pump filter and fpr with a swirlpot are waiting to be installed when the nitrous system is put in). Lightened flywheel, The stock clutch with 6 puck disk is on its way out, there are plans to changing it. the Diff cushion will be fixed now as well, It has the new ecu, wideband, a complete wire tuck & battery reloc.

Seriously what do you want from me? I just have ****ty luck. And if I didn't have ****ty luck I would have no luck at all.


I blew an oil hose last year, at high revs, The engine had not been used since the car started to be tuned, my guess is I damaged the bearings back then and there, and all they needed was to keep running in the engine it was going to happen whether i wanted it or not, the car had 7 liters of oil in it when this happened everything was in check temps were A ok across the board.

So get off my back if you want to get all pissy for someone blowing their engine go yell at pressure2 that he didn't plan well for breaking his supra . **** happens engines blow deal with it a guy at mr2oc ruined 2 engines because he sandblasted the valve cover and sand got caught in the baffles.

S
H
I
T

H
A
P
P
E
N
S

You can only learn from it.

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 28, 2012 - 5:38 AM

[bsamps4]

Did you blow main or rod bearings?

[Neon90424]

haven't dropped the crank yet but it spins fine, rod bearings scratched the rods up bad

[3WayStunna]

Sounds like a bad battle story....would to see you get it on the road soon and get some dyno/vids up or something...to be honest i think you are one of the few, if not only documented 3s with one of those new and fancy borgwarner turbos. Cant wait to see the results..also what did you do to get your intercooler to fit again?

[Neon90424]

Thanks pal means alot all I have been getting is crap thrown at me by everyone who thinks its easy to build an engine like this in paraguay. The other guy that has a caldina with a 3sgte has blown it to **** about 3 times. Has an 11 second 1/4 time with only 3 runs total including practice.

my oil pump failed, only #4 bearing went bad and took the eagle rod with it, from the overheating problem allota pages ago, the bores were 86mm up top 86.5 on the bottom. All 4 CP pistons are now very expensive ashtrays.

I have acquired 4 eagle rods and 87mm cp pistons used for about a week if not less on a drag car the piston rings arent even seated yet.

I am having the crank machine polished and balanced, 25 over bearings, bores bored out to 87mm, engine block cleansed and going to paint it red and white.

Diff cushion will be replaced by polyurethane, all 4 rod bearings were fine, I don't know If I should order new ones? opinions?

Oh & BTW If you don't have anything nice or constructive to say, go finger yourself.


In the meanwhile I am also re doing the main panel with the new ECU wideband nitrous Arming switch, purge button with an aircon delete, Pics later It looks very nice.

And as to the B&W turbo, you guys were right about being worried about it at 10 psi, the pull is massive with the 272 cams at 14 psi, the integrated BOV sounds really mean and high pitched like an SSQV

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 30, 2012 - 5:53 PM

[Syaoran]

NEEDS MOAR VIDEOS!!!

Este build suena brutal mi hermano! Saludos desde Puerto Rico!

[Neon90424]

only have 1 video and its not very good but i have my go pro and it will be mounted in the rear window pointing at the console where the RPM etc is shown and a good view of the road

[Neon90424]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1BH7NKOsIE...FiS66Vau13eRY_0

[Neon90424]

Ordered ACT press plate with clutch

[Neon90424]

In the end the engine's story is like this, the oil pump was damaged, starved the last bearing, spun that bearing, damaged the con rod, fissured the crankshaft in 2 places, top of the bores were 86mm bottom were 86.5 forged pistons were damaged.

New rods, new forged pistons, and found somehow miraculously a crankshaft, and bought a brand new 5S oil pump whose guts will be implanted in the celica. crank re balanced and machined to .25 over. Engine fully blueprinted and machined to 86.99mm gap between pistons and walls is 0.08mm I have the paper at the shop but its got all the details.

So the engine is now, 100% and ready for a re trial, I guess a road trip will be in order to break in this beast... my act clutch still hasn't shown up in miami.

[bsamps4]

Crap! How did the oil pump get damaged???

Sounds like you've got it all sorted out though. Gonna be a beast!

Are you a little nervous about the large bore?

[Neon90424]

A lil nervous yes! dont want to crack the cyl walls...I have no idea why the oil pump was damaged but it did not spin freely...another mistery sherlock lol

[Sunny]

Hi,

do you have pictures of the pump? and also from the damaged pistons? you have 0,5mm more bore at the buttom? my gut feeling says that the oil pump wasn't the reason but the result
of a other fail

if you want to be safe you should change every bearing and clean every part (also open the block main oil bore and whash every bore)

does i ask where you bought the borg warner turbo?

greetz

This post has been edited by Sunny: Feb 24, 2012 - 4:19 PM

[Neon90424]

Hey sunny, The pistons were damaged because top of the bores was 86.0 and bottoms were 86.5, the oil pump failed probably from the many times i blew oil hoses etc...the whole engine was taken apart and cleaned new bearings all around etc...

I'm having problems finding a 3rd gen oil pump, bought supposedly a 5s pump. the heart matches but i have to have the the parts machined about 2mm or less for it to fit in the 3rd gen oil pump casing..problem is the casing is scratched to **** so I need new one and cant find one...

bought the EFR from Lexustuner32 on ebay.!

[bsamps4]

You can get a third generation pump from Lithia toyota.

[Neon90424]

i would need a direct URL link to buy it and send it to my forwarding company or else Im not game.. :S