ST205 Mechanical help needed! Car stalls Options

[TEAMFaint]

I am by no means mechanically inclined at all however I would like to try and diagnosis this with some of
your guys` help instead of having to take it into my Toyota dealer.
Here's my situation:

When the car first fires up, it idles nicely at 1000 rpm, smooth rpms all over, drops nicely back down to 1000 rpm with ease.
Now the cars engine is warmed up, and now the trouble hits.
Car still revs up fine but starts to dive down to the 800 mark and getting rough, in some cases when I am hitting the brakes abruptly or I press the clutch in for a neutral coast, the car will actually stall out and drop from whatever RPM I am going, (typically 3000) straight down to zero with no hesitation.

I am at a loss as to where to start, ideas my friends? Need some helpful insight from some experienced members with the 3SGTE world.

-Kellen.

[mkernz22]

That happened to me once, but it was on a cold start and I was just revving it. Try resetting the ECU by unplugging the battery for a few minutes. Once you reconnect it, let the car idle on it's own for 10-15 minutes while it reconfigures the ratios and all that goody good stuff

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Feb 3, 2011 - 12:55 PM

[playr158]

let it idle for 10-15minutes?! thats actually bad for a car. but also a really weird concept for a fix.


You might want to check for a vacuum leak, which could cause your issues.
IACV could also contribute to your issue.

[TEAMFaint]

let it idle for 10-15minutes?! thats actually bad for a car. but also a really weird concept for a fix.


You might want to check for a vacuum leak, which could cause your issues.
IACV could also contribute to your issue.

IACV you say? what can i do to diagnosis this? Other than just simply replacing the sensor.

[mkernz22]

let it idle for 10-15minutes?! thats actually bad for a car. but also a really weird concept for a fix.


You might want to check for a vacuum leak, which could cause your issues.
IACV could also contribute to your issue.

That's what someone said on the thread when I asked why my car was idling low and stalled once....

edit: they said 10 minutes

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Feb 3, 2011 - 2:03 PM

[pipes]

You can check if its your iac by letting the car warm up all the way...because once the car is warm it no longer need the iac....now you can drive around and when u have to stop keep your foot on the gas and do that till the car is warm....if it stops stalling there goes your problem

[TEAMFaint]

You can check if its your iac by letting the car warm up all the way...because once the car is warm it no longer need the iac....now you can drive around and when u have to stop keep your foot on the gas and do that till the car is warm....if it stops stalling there goes your problem

So what youre saying is once my car is warmed up, when im braking keep my foot on the gas to keep the revs up and if the car doesnt stall then its my IAC?
Because this is indeed what I have to do to ensure the car does not stall.


Ps. on a side note, my car is sitting at 96,000 kms with original timing belt/water pump//wires/cap/rotor
Would any of this affect the car as far as the symptom?

[pipes]

Do what ever it takes to drive the car for 15 mins then.... See if it stalls

[TEAMFaint]

Do what ever it takes to drive the car for 15 mins then.... See if it stalls

Just drove the car to my toyota dealership, purchased some Red Life Coolant to top up my intercooler.
While revving to suck down the coolant, on the very last one to fill the intercooler, sure enough, putt, putt, died.

On initial fire up as well it was sketchy, with delayed revving when I pressed on the gas, which makes me think Vac leak.

[playr158]

Wires cap rotor and plugs are always a good maintenance idea, it might now fix your issue but still a good idea to freshen all that up

[TEAMFaint]

Found the problem, well, hopefully. Vac line off the blow off valve had cracked right off, going to go buy some new lines right now to see if this fixes the problem. Fingers crossed gentlemen.

[playr158]

Yay I was right. Glad you found it!

[TEAMFaint]

Yay I was right. Glad you found it!

Yes found the vac leaks! Three nice new hoses for $4, nice cheap fix for that ...
Unfortunately, problem is still there..

Talked with one of the guys from work, he is thinkin one of two things:

1) Timing Belt is on its last legs (which is true, it is at its 96,000 km service)
2) Fuel Filter.



The car is just losing RPM when at a standstill as well once warmed up. Dropping from 1000 to 800 and sometimes down to about 400.
Still occasionally stalling when revved up then RPMs drop back down.


Ugh. Must not be tempted to take to Toyota, new years resolution is to be more of a wrench head and do this by myself!

This post has been edited by TEAMFaint: Feb 3, 2011 - 7:22 PM

[TEAMFaint]

I just stumpled across this:

(1) Hard Starting
(2 Poor fuel economy
(3 Rough Idle
(4 Car runs fine when cold and terrible when warm
(5 Car will start just fine when cold and not when warm
(6 Getting a fuel smell inside the car
(7 Loss of power in acceleration
(8 Fuel leaking from injector seals or injector

This is basically EXACTLY what I have. Think my injectors could use a cleanin?

[azian_advanced]

i'm leaning towards it being an ignition problem which is the reason why you would smell fuel. start with checking/replacing your spark plugs and wires. that's where i would start..

[Neon90424]

maybe electrical? dieing bat or alternator not chargin??

[TEAMFaint]

maybe electrical? dieing bat or alternator not chargin??

thought this as well, brand new battery, took the ground off the battery while the vehicle was running, did not die, so this is not the case.

I am leaning towards ignition as well, it is smelling a bit like fuel from time to time.

Maintenance overhaul to come!

[3WayStunna]

Seems like you got all the basis covered. But nonetheless try checking your spark plugs, rotor, and if you are feeling froggy check and make sure your timing belt isnt loose or coming off. Also check to see if your spark plug wires are actually connected..would be a funny thing if the wire that lead from the ignitor to the distributer was loose...happened to me before

[808celica]

lol what we covered in CHAT is pretty much whats covered here get this car running purrrrrrtty

[delusionz]

my gt4 idles low at times, sometimes it gets to the point where it feels like it's gonna stall but im able to save it by putting the clutch in.

gt4 doesn't seem to respond to ecu reset like non turbo celicas, that whole rev hunting thing doesn't happen at all... it just idles like it did before