sub and amp installation, just got my amp, finally. looking for help where and how to install Options

[monster_cars6]

hey guys, ive had my sub for almost a year now and i finally had time to get my amp. after looking at the car, i realized i have no idea what im doing haha. this is my first car so ive never done anything like this before. so, for people who have doen this before, where did you go through the fire wall? did you have to drill your own hole? where did you mount your amp and all that. i cannot mout in under the seats do to the seat heaters that are already there. any help would be great and pics would be awesome!!
thanks guys!!

-T

[barterj]

Read these, if you have more questions after this don't be afraid to ask.

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=77088

For the power wire from the battery you can use existing holes:
Remove the wheel well plastic on the drivers side.
You will notice that by the top on the door inside the fender well that there is a rubber grommet that wires go through.
Cut the grommet from the end closest to you down about an inch, this will give you enough space to fit your power wire through that grommet, then you can follow that same wiring back to the engine bay and connect the power to your battery.
Run the power wire on the divers side of the car, and run you speaker wires to you amp on the passenger side of the car, if you don't you risk having power interference with the sound and you will get a low static noise in your bass.

Also if your amp is over 500watts, it is wise to get a higher output alternator, many people use a capacitor, but that is just a bandaid, and most times you will never know if it has gone bad.
my cap. went bad and i blew my alternator.
here is a nice alternator someone here showed me.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-99-toyot...sQ5fAccessories

[SupraKid]

^Few things to add and detest^:
-When you cut the grommet to run the power wire make sure to seal it back up with something(caulking,tape,w.e.) or you will develop a leak
-You don't need to upgrade the alt for a measly 500watts, unless your hitting full bass at all times and your engine is old and tired. I run around 900watts all together with the subs and speakers and i get no headlight dim and only at full bass/music do i get a voltage drop of .2-.5.


I think my how to covered most the bases, but if there is anything you dont understand please tell me and i will clarify.

This post has been edited by SupraKid: Mar 3, 2011 - 4:09 PM

[barterj]

You're lucky you don't have a voltage drop, i did with a 300 watt amp, thats why i got a cap, and yeah i forgot to mention to tape up the grommet after, my bad

[DGolden32]

I would like to expound upon the alternator thing. You don't need to upgrade alternator until you get to 1,500 WRMS or more on this car. AND, caps suck by themselves and can only handle about 80-100 wrms per farad effectively unless used in tandem with a --car audio-- battery or in a full-range (not subwoofer) application. Enter Shuriken. Get a small 1-2F cap and a Shuriken BT20 and you can handle 1,000 wrms without breaking a sweat. BT20 alone is great up to about 600 WRMS to a subwoofer.

EDIT - just so I'm not misunderstood, the alternator with no help from aftermarket capacitance (Dry cell battery or cap) can NOT handle 1,500 wrms. That is just the point about at which it is more cost effective to upgrade the alternator than to get more capacitance.

AMP - a popular place is either attached to the back of the seat or directly on enclosure. Preferably seat if possible
GROUND - Make certain you grind away down to bare metal wherever you ground your system to, and put some vaseline or grease on it to avoid rust
POWER - you actually can fit up to a 4g wire in the existing plastic wire track under your door sills, i suggest running it there.
REMOTE - find the ACC fuse, pull it out, and use a multimeter to find which side of the terminal has NO power. Insert your remote wire there so if the fuse blows it won't continue pulling current


Do you have an enclosure already? And what sub is it? I can get you specs for a perfect box for that sub depending on what type of bass you like (LOUD and muddy or low and tight)

This post has been edited by DGolden32: Mar 9, 2011 - 1:43 AM