rod knock? Options

[wvuguy]

Hello every one,
I picked up a 1994 Toyota Celica with 137,000 miles for $300 yesterday. It has what seems to be a rod knock. The owner said it has only been driven 10 miles since it started knocking. She said the engine shut off in while driving and when she started up it started knocking. I have made a youtube video of the knock.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1CnaWB_8u4

I have heard that rod knock is loudest when you let off the gas. Thats what I am trying to do in the video but the noise goes away when I let it go. Also its pretty quite on idle and third gear. I am really hoping its the torque converter bolts. I took out spark plug wires one by one yesterday but the noise did not go away. Thanks.

[95CelicaST]

drain the oil and check for metallic residue.

[Smaay]

if its rod knock, plan on needing a new rod and have the crank turned. at worst, new crank. the cylinders should be just fine.

[wvuguy]

I just drained the oil. Passed it through a screen but no signs of metal any where. However there is a greenlish layer on top when I shine light on it. Could it be a blown head gasket leading to a bad rod bearing?

[wvuguy]

I would think blown head gasket would cause milkshake like apearance in oil. Also coolant is not low. Could just be 18 months oil breaking down.

[Smaay]

correct. if coolant is in the oil it looks like chocolate milkshake. you might have caught the rod knock soon enough before the bearing chewes itself up. i still think pulling the engine and dissassembly is a must. dont take chances or you will be doing it all over again

[wvuguy]

Thanks guys. I am looking considering options of either putting a used low milage engine or rebuilding this one. Used 7AFE motors are available for pretty cheap.

[wvuguy]

Anyway the crankshaft can be pulled with engine in the car?

[stephen_lee]

not with the tranny in the car

flywheel needs to come off

[wvuguy]

I dropped the oil pan. Found silver metal powder at the bottom. The noise seemed to be coming from the first cylinder next to the transmission. By dropping the pan I can see only bearing caps of only two rods. How do I get to the rods towards the transmission? Thanks.

[wvuguy]

Nevermind, I figured out I need to remove #1 oil pan too. I came across a 4AFE motor at a local junk yard for $300. Its got about 70,000 miles on it and came out of a Geo Prizm?
Any one got a list of things that need to be disconnected before the engine an be pulled out? Smaay I saw your post about rebuilding the motor. Pretty awesome stuff. I noticed the transmission was attached to the motor when you put it back. Does it need to come out when you pull the motor? I have automatic.

[stephen_lee]

just start pullin stuff off that u see attaching the engine to other things of the car.

a 4afe will bolt up, but will run like ****, if at all, on the stock ecu, as its a 1.6, not a 1.8

[wvuguy]

stephen_lee, I have read some posts about 7AFE and 4AFE having the same horse power even though size is different. I understand I might have to out a different ECU if it doesn't run well. I am just looking for a practical car, don't care about power at this point.

[bsamps4]

First question....how much would that junk yard motor cost? Second question....why not just rebuild it? Shouldn't be too expensive.

[stephen_lee]

4afe 105 HP, 7afe 110 HP

junkyards will cost 300-500$ with unknown condition

rebuilds will cost ~1200-1500

theres more than just swapping out ecus. its basically the same swap as a 7afe to 4age.

[wvuguy]

Oops I meant significant difference in horse power. From searching the forum, it seems like 4AFE is pretty much a straight drop without any mods needed. However for 4AGE, new ECU, wiring and throttle cable is needed. I want to keep the swap as simple as possible and get the car on the road. Don't care too much about some loss of power.

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...815&hl=4afe
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=43401
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...708&hl=4afe
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...028&hl=4afe

[Bitter]

HP is not the disparity between the two, its the distribution of torque across the rpm band.

[Smaay]

4afe 105 HP, 7afe 110 HP

junkyards will cost 300-500$ with unknown condition

rebuilds will cost ~1200-1500

rebuild will not cost that much. if you do all the work yourself, it can be done for about 500 bucks. cheaply. about 800 if you replace everything like in my guide

[wvuguy]

Bitter, I understand what you are saying but since this car has auto trans I am not sure its worth it.
Smaay, I have seen your thread butI have no experience building motors and I am not sure I can do that.

I finally dropped the no #1 oil pan today and there is a big groove in the oil pan from the #1 rod bearing cap hitting the oil pan. Cap did not feel loose though. Thats what all the metal power was from that I noticed in the oil pan. So I am guessing the engine is toast?

This post has been edited by wvuguy: Mar 7, 2011 - 9:53 AM

[wvuguy]

Well I looked at the some of the pictures on this forum and it seems like most 4AFE oil pans have this groove. Not sure there is anything worst with mine.

https://picasaweb.google.com/usmanwvu/Celic...411355877793186