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> Idle Flux Capacitor Problem
post Mar 22, 2011 - 1:34 PM
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clownpRon



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Not really, of course. But my question is that on a cold start my engine idles high like usual. I can hear the SRI sucking like a vacuum. But when I turn the heater on the cars idle lowers massively, and the vacuum noise goes away. I don't recall it doing this at all during winter time, and it's still fairly nippy here. I'm thinking maybe it could be the alternator, but I'm not sure.
post Mar 22, 2011 - 1:44 PM
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HectortheRican



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I'm pretty sure that's normal. Mine does the same thing and so does my friend's Prelude.

Say, starts idling around 1,600-1,750, turn on the the A/C or heater, then drops to about 1,000-1,150?

This post has been edited by HectortheRican: Mar 22, 2011 - 1:45 PM


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taking too long to mod since '09
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'95 AT200
post Mar 22, 2011 - 10:37 PM
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stephen_lee



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yup. mine too. its ur ac compressor drawing the idle down


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QUOTE
"And, as always, your friendship, help, and dedication to the advancement of Texas Celica dominance is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks bro." -DEATH

1994 GT: V6 swap, 5speed E53 W/ LSD, All Power, now RED
1995 ST: SOLD @273k miles, Auto, all power, CarPC, White
1994 ST: Totaled, 5spd, all power, Red RIP 07/09/09 @ 241,810
1994 Lexus LS400: This is my new DD
post Mar 22, 2011 - 10:55 PM
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bmj67

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What you need is a Mr. Fusion Home Energy Reactor. hahaha. anyway it sound normal if it were stalling the car then theres a problem.
post Mar 23, 2011 - 7:14 AM
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Bitter

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there should be an axillary air bypass valve which opens when the AC compressor turns on, it supplies air in addition to the IAC under the throttle body. I think its at the passenger side of the intake manifold via a vacuum tube and the valve itself is located on the firewall, at least for a 7A-FE. My idle would dip a little but I don't remember it dropping that much. Check that that valve is working via a test light, it should turn on when the AC compressor is running and that there is vacuum at the valve with the engine at idle. Also clean the IAC under the throttle body, they tend to get full of gunk and crud and don't flow as much air as they should and don't move as much or as fast as they should.

It can also be worth while to check the calibration of the TPS and adjust it (also the throttle minimum position) to account for minute wear in the throttle stop. It only takes a tiny bit of wear to make a noticeable difference, you HAVE to recalibrate the TPS if you adjust the throttle closed position screw!!


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post Mar 23, 2011 - 8:32 AM
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NYp8tBaller07



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Good to read this, you can here my intake from my house when I start the car up and I thought something may have been acting up =p


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90 ST coupe- Sold
95 ST hatch- Dead :’(
02 Impreza RS- DD
post Mar 24, 2011 - 8:49 PM
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stephen_lee



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my cold idle always dropped alot with ac on. same as a warm idle w/o ac. once warmed up the ac draws idle down maybe 50 rpm


--------------------
QUOTE
"And, as always, your friendship, help, and dedication to the advancement of Texas Celica dominance is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks bro." -DEATH

1994 GT: V6 swap, 5speed E53 W/ LSD, All Power, now RED
1995 ST: SOLD @273k miles, Auto, all power, CarPC, White
1994 ST: Totaled, 5spd, all power, Red RIP 07/09/09 @ 241,810
1994 Lexus LS400: This is my new DD
post Mar 25, 2011 - 9:50 PM
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clownpRon



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I guess I'll just ignore it since I never noticed it before. I just get paranoid that something else went bad since the people I bought the car off of never took proper care of her ;_;
post Mar 26, 2011 - 8:24 PM
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Spider77



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QUOTE (Bitter @ Mar 23, 2011 - 8:14 AM) *
there should be an axillary air bypass valve which opens when the AC compressor turns on, it supplies air in addition to the IAC under the throttle body. I think its at the passenger side of the intake manifold via a vacuum tube and the valve itself is located on the firewall, at least for a 7A-FE. My idle would dip a little but I don't remember it dropping that much. Check that that valve is working via a test light, it should turn on when the AC compressor is running and that there is vacuum at the valve with the engine at idle. Also clean the IAC under the throttle body, they tend to get full of gunk and crud and don't flow as much air as they should and don't move as much or as fast as they should.

It can also be worth while to check the calibration of the TPS and adjust it (also the throttle minimum position) to account for minute wear in the throttle stop. It only takes a tiny bit of wear to make a noticeable difference, you HAVE to recalibrate the TPS if you adjust the throttle closed position screw!!

There is a valve under there, its the A/C Bypass valve, and its a bit adjustable. I messed with it a long time ago, it never did me any good (could be shot for all I know). I had enough of the crazy shake with the A/C on and took the slack out of the cable that runs from pedal to TB. Slight adjustment, idle a tad higher, but with a/c on its all ok. But, since this involves the heater and not A/C.............
post Mar 29, 2011 - 4:37 PM
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delusionz



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My idle goes up when the AC is on, has done with every Toyota I;ve ever owned.

Maybe drops a tad under Econ but definitely not with the heater or the AC.


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Mike W
1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOUR
GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC
269awhp / 273ft-lbs

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