 Alternator belt rattle |
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 Apr 14, 2011 - 9:57 PM
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Enthusiast  Joined May 6, '08 From Lisarow, NSW, Australia Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%)  |
Hey, I've had a rattle for a while and it changes every now and then, it usually only rattles after a gear change in high rpm. I had to change the power steering belt recently and afterwards the rattle was different so I played with the alternator belt and its definitely something rattling on either the alternator or compressor, the tighter it is the less rattle but I don't want to damage the bearings, anyone had this problem?
The compressor pulley seems to have minimal play, so I'm guessing its that, is it possible to change just the pulley or does the whole compressor have to come off? |
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Apr 15, 2011 - 12:38 AM
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 Enthusiast Joined May 13, '06 From Kaimuki, HI Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) |
take the belt off and then spin each of the accessories by hand to see which one is rattling or not spinning smoothly. Sound like you have bad bearings in one of them.
-------------------- -Jay
95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other 01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished 02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve |
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Apr 16, 2011 - 1:11 PM
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Enthusiast Joined May 29, '09 From Gainesville, FL Currently Offline Reputation: 17 (100%) |
Just fixed a noise myself in that same area 5 mins ago.
Mine was the idler pulley left under the altenator, above the compressor. Cheap easy fix if it is it. Oh btw, when I was changing them out it was noted the compressor belt was much tigher then the alternator one. This post has been edited by rave2n: Apr 16, 2011 - 1:45 PM |
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Apr 16, 2011 - 10:33 PM
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Enthusiast Joined May 13, '06 From Kaimuki, HI Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) |
QUOTE (rave2n @ Apr 16, 2011 - 8:11 AM)  Just fixed a noise myself in that same area 5 mins ago. Mine was the idler pulley left under the altenator, above the compressor. Cheap easy fix if it is it. Oh btw, when I was changing them out it was noted the compressor belt was much tigher then the alternator one. they should all be about the same tighteness..but obviously it's going to seem tighter if the belt is shorter..i was taught to go by this rule..if you have a foot of space between two given pulleys then you should only have 1/4 inch of play..or 6mm if you arent on the stubborn american measuring system -------------------- -Jay
95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other 01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished 02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve |
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Apr 18, 2011 - 8:22 AM
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Enthusiast Joined May 29, '09 From Gainesville, FL Currently Offline Reputation: 17 (100%) |
Yea I assumed it only appeared tigher being it was a smaller belt, with a smaller plane. Also difficult to push down on that belt in the place required to measure it. Either way, the noise is fixed!
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