Official "custom" exhaust thread, for all engines Options

[Tigawoods]

had to watch it a second time haha

[808celica]

had to watch it a second time haha

lol next up will be boso pipes

[BonzaiCelica]

watched it but not sure what to think of it. A few weeks ago I saw an 2009 subaru with straight dual pipes, it sounded crazy loud. Get this thing on the road so we can hear it roar!

[Neon90424]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKYdqKrgLxA

ebay exhaust and raceland 3" electronic cutout


No cats no pre silencer

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jul 14, 2011 - 4:27 PM

[808celica]

watched it but not sure what to think of it. A few weeks ago I saw an 2009 subaru with straight dual pipes, it sounded crazy loud. Get this thing on the road so we can hear it roar!

easier said than done my friend, the car is soooo HF that it rolled and pulled the front fenders

[Tigawoods]

obx headers, stock cat, Vibrant Ultra Quiet resonator and straight pipes from there on out

http://youtu.be/fvsw5aJpwH0

http://youtu.be/dxiun85DKCE

[SwissFerdi]

Ha, I'm first view on the drive-by video! Sounds super sexy.

[BonzaiCelica]

for those looking to go with a custom exhaust set up. Here are brand name/well known mufflers in canister form :

• HKS Hi Power, 60mm inlet, 96mm Tip Diameter, 130mm Shell Diameter (#3203EX023)
• Apexi N1 Muffler, 60mm inlet, 90mm Tip Diameter, 120mm Shell Diameter (#156A008)
• Greddy Ti-C Muffler, 60mm inlet, 102mm Tip Diameter, 140mm Shell Diameter (#11001006)

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Mar 14, 2014 - 11:28 PM

[BonzaiCelica]

soo..... continuing this discussion from the beams/acis thread http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...61995&st=60 on page 4. I don't want to clutter that thread just yet

alright so building a custom exhaust system as the title says. Here is my current set up :



with custom made crappy y-pipe


The Y-Pipe design is harsh and doesn't allow the gradual/natural flow of the exhaust to slowly go into two pipes and then into one. My designed y-pipe is actually worse than the original oem y-pipe as shown below :



Ok so now we have four different exhaust header designs as follow. So which is the best???


Fujitsubo Header according to some members





Tom`s Header Wrapped




Pheonix Header (however unconfirmed yet)


If you take a look at this HKS and Fujitsubo exhausts you can see that they both have the same common design. Notice how the 2-1 gradually fades into one pipe. The Y-Pipe design continues after the primary 80 degree bend and then gradually into the 1 pipe.






By designing an header like so, you should see an additional 2-4 ft lbs torque and 5-8hp gain....

A Y-Pipe made by a member here of an MR2 Beams engine. the 2-1 section can be improved like the hks/fujitsubo design


Measurements of Stock Header and 3rd/4th Generation 3SGE B-pipe so you know the restrictions on it.

The welds are not quality and restricting flow as soon as it exits cylinder head





And what Smoothing out the Welds looks like (some members have had improved dyno results, even the 2zzge community)


Section on header towards bottom where it merges from 4-2

'

What the 4-2 section looks like inside


Right after the Oxygen Sensor Bung, its quiet small compared to the exit of the b-pipe before the catalytic converter.


Length of Flex pipe


After flex pipe





Outer Diameter of B-pipe before catalytic converter

Inner Diameter of B-pipe exit


This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jan 7, 2017 - 3:19 AM

[BonzaiCelica]

can I ask what is wrong with the Factory extractors? Because your wanting to spend about US$850 for 1.1KW? The factory extractor type manifolds fitted the 3S-GE and BEAMS 3S-GE are very good. Toyota put some effort into the design and flow of these.

I think your better off putting your money towards your BEAMS engine.

rusty is right, there isnt a lot wrong with the stock extractors, the dimensions may be quite tight but they are fine for a near stock cam, the problem is and this is typical toyota the ingredients are right, the execution not so, the welds tend to be tack welds on the outside and welded on the inside, if you reweld the manifold so the welds are on the outside of the pipe, take a dremel and grind out the garbage on the inside of the pipe, so far i've found the manifolds to be really sloppy here, the design is fundementally fine, but the execution is poor. This isnt a power adder as such but will free up the engine at high revs, we found this on the beams and its also true of the newer 2zz engines where usually a ported stock manifold is better than the aftermarket ones.

To make it complicated It is worth leaving a step though at the bottom of the manifold floor where the manifold meets the head, you dont want it exact you want the pipe to be slightly bigger at the floor so there is a step down leaving the head, this helps to break up reversion pulses and does no harm to the exhaust flow.

another thing I don't understand is the last paragraph edophus spoke of?????

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Nov 6, 2011 - 3:43 AM

[SwissFerdi]

\ /
| |

Pipe goes like that is what he's saying, I think?

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 6, 2011 - 9:25 AM

[BonzaiCelica]

another thing to note is the design of the hks and fujitsubo header. The left 3 tubes come all the way to the front. If you notice the oem design it is much different. The two right tubes come to the front of the car and are much smoother flowing. Does that have to do with the way that the engine fires each cylinder???? I mean i know two outter cylinders go first and then the two inner ones. Or is it the other way around??



This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Nov 6, 2011 - 4:47 PM

[Rusty]

You need to look at getting a flexi for your one for starters.

Hard to tell from the angles of the photos, just how good/bad it merges, also doesn't help the example factory pipe has heatshields on. Yours might actaually have a larger diameter pipe, but again hard to tell.


'Which is the best?' All of them but depending on the situation, plus you don't give any info on them.


imo a 4-1 would be good for a racing engine where the powerband is say 5,000rpm onwards. The 4-2-1 is best for us as it will make more power and torque through the entire rev range, rather than just peak power.

now for the paragraph...

paint
(notice the left diagram the red and blue lines meet together, but on the right diagram the bottom line has a step/drop to the other line) dont worry about the top blue line on the first diagram I had a wobbly hand

when you have a larger amount of cam overlap (both valves open after TDC) the piston draws from both the intake and exhaust valves and can cause the exhaust pulses to reverse. But as long as they merge as 1 & 4 and then 2 & 3 together, this will help with the exhaust pulses.



It has nothing to do with which cylinder pipe is at the front or at the back, but which 2 cylinder pipes merge together. The factory set of extractors goes 1 & 4 on the right and 2 & 3 on the left. What they (HKS & Fujitsubo) have done, is swap them to the other side so: 1 & 4 now on the left and 2 & 3 now on the right. Giving it a cleaner, tidier look.

It's to do with the firing order (1-3-4-2) why they merge like that


Factory right side: .1......4.....
Factory Left side: ......3......2

so when you get down to the last merge it goes: R...L...R...L...R...L....

[ricochet1490]

obx headers, stock cat, Vibrant Ultra Quiet resonator and straight pipes from there on out

http://youtu.be/fvsw5aJpwH0

http://youtu.be/dxiun85DKCE

the audio in the vid is jacked right now.... at least it was for me when I just played it. Heads up.

[BonzaiCelica]

ughh let this be a lesson to all you 6gc'ers. Don't buy a glasspack resonator at all!!! I installed a 18 inch glasspack resonator on my 2.25 inch exhaust system and today I found out that I need a new one I was originally going to go with the magnaflow, but they didn't have any in stock. The glasspack cost me $70 and only lasted me 6 months!!!!! do yourself a favor and just spend the extra $30-40 on the magnaflow 14 inch resonator. just fyi...

[BonzaiCelica]

with a 4-1 design. Do you guys think It would be better to get an aftermarket/standalone ecu. Would the stock ecu adjust to the new exhaust piping??? Original is 4-2-1 as you all know. I have that higher final drive (or so I believe, I"ll be able to tell once I pull the transmission apart), so torque really isn't an issue....

oh ok now I understand you Rusty....

quote:
"It has nothing to do with which cylinder pipe is at the front or at the back, but which 2 cylinder pipes merge together. The factory set of extractors goes 1 & 4 on the right and 2 & 3 on the left. What they (HKS & Fujitsubo) have done, is swap them to the other side so: 1 & 4 now on the left and 2 & 3 now on the right. Giving it a cleaner, tidier look."

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Nov 25, 2011 - 2:48 AM

[mak5603]

Just my 2 cents but I don't think it's worth getting a standalone on an NA car with a relatively stock motor...

[Ehrgeiz]

I just got a custom exhaust made for my Celica. HKS Hipower muffler.



And a little movie: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sp489POyShg

7A-FE engine.

[BonzaiCelica]

cool video. lets see the car do some takeoffs and drive by's so we can really hear what it sounds like on the road.

[Ehrgeiz]

Well, we made one but it's pretty terrible.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Cb7FCBOdfU...feature=related

I'll try and shoot a better one soon.