Possible electrical (or alternator) problem? Options

[travisxcore]

I don't know if its just cause this is an older car or if my alternator might be going bad but does anyone elses interior/headlights flicker and get dimmer when their electrical fans cut on? Or when I have my subs on (not really that high powered either) my lights dim. I know when I have them up (I have a 1500 watt amp w/o a cap) that'll cause it. Just wanna check to see if I should get a new one.

[NYp8tBaller07]

how about your windows and sunroof? are they slow to go up? When I had a sub in my other car lights got a pinch dimmer but my alt. was fine.

[trdproven]

your lights will dim because you are drawing more power than the rated power draw. whether or not you have a capacitor it will still dim, because its useless to have a capicator for your sounds when your stock alternator can't keep up to charge your actual battery. Your cap will keep drawing power so fast for your bass pounds, and purge it faster than your alternator can keep up with recharging basically both. Solution is get a high output alternator to actually run that capicator correctly, and get a good strong battery like a dry cell like optima yellow.

[travisxcore]

My windows and sun roof are some what slow but not bad. I have a year old interstate yellow top right now. As for alternator what are my choices? And it'd be preferable for it not to throw any codes. I have an auto transmission so I know I have the 80w alternator. So its nothing bad though? I just wanted to check that my amp hasn't wrecked my alternator yet, lol.

[trdproven]

your window and sunroof are like that cus the motor is already weakened through the ages. alternator won't throw codes, they don't have sensors for any error problems, it either works or it doesn't. there is one on ebay for a 91 2.2L motor, however, you need to confirm with the members here if it fits. I don't see why it wouldn't, the motor is exactly the same, and the mounting points shouldn't be different since it doesn't connect to the body or anything. but still you would have to research here or ask. and this website is for it also, http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/hiou140ampal23.html. good luck.

This post has been edited by trdproven: May 24, 2011 - 5:19 PM

[travisxcore]

Thanks man. I actually have a junker I know that has a **** ton of 6gens (all front end wrecks lol) thats gonna look into it for me to see if hes got any but if I can't find one I might have to check out ebay or that site.

[Galcobar]

An alternative explanation is poor ground connections, which prevent current from flowing freely. The stock wiring's pretty thin to begin with, and as they age they build resistance, become brittle and can break. Upgrading these is often a good way to stabilize an electrical system, and is advisable whenever you put additional load on your car.

One comes off the battery negative post, another connects between the alternator bracket and the passenger-side strut tower, and a third between the transmission and the strut tower.

[trdproven]

you can upgrade your wiring if you are willing to take the challenge most don't. a capacitor honestly is not worth its money, all it is is an additional semi battery that forces your system to charge both and try to keep up. best and complete recommendation, is optima yellow battery, better alternator and upgraded wiring if you can. cap, not a big deal, but is worth a try to test how it affects this system. if it is beneficial keep it if not remove it. it is based on combination and how it works out. downright, nothing beats a good battery, always optimal to have an alternator to keep up with how much you are drawing power, and its nice if better wiring can flow that power much better through. not much more to say.

[travisxcore]

Thanks for all the information man. I think that upgrading my wire is definitely good path to take along with the alternator because I'm sure after 16 years (and 4 years of a high amount of power from the amp) the wires are deprecated. What all would I need to do?

[trdproven]

Optimal setup is optima deep cycle yellow top battery or any high cca dry cell, high output alternator, improve the "big three wires", add cap if system can handle load.

1. The wire between Battery Negative and Chassis

2. The wire between Battery Positive and Alternator Positive

3. The wire between Engine Block and Chassis

Now some say to replace the "BIG THREE" wires, but many say just to add to them. Capicator is only when the system can sustain the load.

Heres extra reference for you to read.

http://www.bcae1.com/
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/rf…
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread…
http://www.termpro.com/articles/articles…

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jun 1, 2011 - 12:44 AM

[stephen_lee]

actually the yellow top isnt THAT great of a battery unless theres a lot of bouncing and chances ofgetting sideways. i have a big marine battery and that does the job well. 1000 cranking amps, 125 amp hours. the yellowtop was same cranking amps and only 55 amp hours. amp hours = the number of hours a battery can supply a 10a load w/o dropping 80% of the original voltage. then mulitiplied by 10 (basically how many hours it can run a 1 amp load)

[trdproven]

its not that great even the red top but its a hella lot better than all the normal batteries out there if not the best one for car batteries.