e-brake wont let go, everything is brand new Options

[skogs]

When comparing the new and the old rotor, everything is the same, except the inner diameter on the center hole, which is around 0.5-1mm smaller on the new rotor. I've tried to refit the wheel, and force the rotor into place, without any luck. The rotor is 2-3mm from being where it should be.

Do i have the wrong rotor, or do i have to either expand the hole on the rotor, or decrease the diameter where its mounted?

The car is a 97` 6GC T20 with rear disk brakes. The disks where bought for this exact model.

EDIT: Look at the bottom for the new problem..

This post has been edited by skogs: Oct 3, 2011 - 10:01 AM

[mkernz22]

You probably need to loosen your ebrake cable because the old rotor have been worn down a little from them.

[Galcobar]

If the centrebore is too small, go back to the store you from which you purchased the rotor and slap the parts guy upside the head.

Then explain to him the difference between the fifth-gen Celica produced 1990-1993 and the sixth-gen Celica produced 1994-1999.

Rear rotors, 5SFE
Year---diametre-thickness-centrebore
90-93 269 mm, 10 mm, 54 mm
94-95 269 mm, 10 mm, 55 mm
95-99 269 mm, 9 mm, 55 mm

[skogs]

Thats the answer i was hoping for! The old disks are 55mm while the new are 54! Only problem is that i cracked the disk while trying to refit the wheel with the wheel-nuts. Really hoping for a refund. Otherwise I'll buy a big trout, and slap him in the face with it..

Thanks a lot for the help!

This post has been edited by skogs: Sep 26, 2011 - 2:41 AM

[Arsaces]

Is there a big difference going from the 10mm to the 9mm thickness rotors, or is it not even possible?

[njccmd2002]

i like the trout idea better.

[skogs]

Is there a big difference going from the 10mm to the 9mm thickness rotors, or is it not even possible?

Initially it wont be a problem, but perhaps the pistons will exceed its Xmax when the pads are fully worn out.

[skogs]

The shop admitted the mistake, and gave me new discs, which fitted perfectly. But one problem remains, my rear right caliper is stuck on the.. what-you-call-it..assembly? So the caliper wont slide sideways, when the pistons moves. I've tried forcing it using clamps, heatgun, hammer, wd40, but with no luck. Any ideas why this has happened? And what i can do to fix it?

[skogs]

I've now mounted everything. But after 2-3mins of driving, the disks and caliper gets scorchingly hot, i can hear something boiling and ticking in there. This happends on both left and right rear brakes, so it isnt just the stuck caliper thats the problem.

Any ideas? Why is the rear brake engaged at all times?

[SwissFerdi]

Hand brake too tight?

[Bitter]

if you put both wheels up in the air, do they spin pretty freely or are they hard to turn?

[Galcobar]

Presuming I understand your question:

If the caliper will not move on the sliding bushings, it's seized. Disassembly can be difficult -- I had to once disassemble mine using a hammer and punch. If the sixth-gen caliper is the same basic design as the fifth-gen, there's a small metal cap on the caliper, on the end where the caliper will pivot. Use a pair of pliers to twist the cap off and you can see the sliding bushing. It's not bolted into the caliper -- the bolt head you see secures the bushing to the caliper bracket. Spray in some penetrating lubricant and try to separate the caliper from the bracket. If you cannot, I found a punch, hammer, and some blocks of wood to support the caliper worked well enough.

Post-disassembly, a wire brush is advisable to clean the various parts, though a new sliding bushing might be advisable.

[skogs]

Excellent replys as always:) You're absolutely right Galcobar, and i will try the hammer technique;)

When both wheels are in the air, i can barely turn the wheels. I've checked the e-brake, and thats not the problem.

I will try to push the pistons back and forth a couple of times, and see if that helps.

This post has been edited by skogs: Oct 1, 2011 - 7:17 AM

[trdproven]

if it is the wrong ones, explain the crack is because they gave you the wrong part, they are to blame, so that you can get a refund. say it wouldn't have happened if you gave the wrong part. if they notice the crack or even look at it.

[skogs]

The hammer method worked absolutely perfectly. When i refitted and bled the brakes, it worked without any issues.

On the left wheel however, a new problem has occured. When the wheel is off, and the rotor is a bit loose, it turns easily. But when i push the disk inwards, it gets harder to turn. When the wheel is bolted on, its really hard to turn. The e-brake is loosened as much as possible, and the brakepads are barely touching the disk. Suggestions?

This post has been edited by skogs: Oct 3, 2011 - 3:16 AM

[skogs]

I disassembled the rotor again, and found that the brand new e-brake shoes where actually noticeable worn. So that's the same problem i had earlier, before changing anything.

e-brake cable, shoes and rotor are all brand new. Everything is loosened as much as possible and still the e-brake is slightly engaged at all times.. WHY?!?!

[purplegt4]

I disassembled the rotor again, and found that the brand new e-brake shoes where actually noticeable worn. So that's the same problem i had earlier, before changing anything.

e-brake cable, shoes and rotor are all brand new. Everything is loosened as much as possible and still the e-brake is slightly engaged at all times.. WHY?!?!

Align the small hole (should have a rubber stopper in it) to 6 o'clock, click the adjustment wheel.

[skogs]

I changed one of the new shoes with one of the old ones, and now everything works:)

Thanks for the help guys:)