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> 5s engine replacement
post Jan 10, 2012 - 3:07 AM
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Malhar95

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long story short. ive seen my engine be replaced 2 1/2 times, kinda done it on a camry with teacher guiding my team in school.
deciding on doing it on my own this time.


heres how it was done on my car.

1st: followed haynes manual. took almost everything off (exhaust and intake manifold, valve cover, starter, alternator, compressor, power steering almost everything before pulling the engine out [b]with[/b] the tranny. for wires, plugged everything out of the engine and let it just sit there when the engine was out.


2nd: simply unplugged the wires from the ecu (i think. it was going throught he passenger side firewall. barely took parts out, just battery, alternator, PS pump, and minor little things. jacked up engine from bottom, supported it with hoist from top. loosened the tranny bolts, took the cross member off and lifted it without the tranny. just the long block pretty much.




for this time i would like suggestions of how to go about replacing it. i dont want to half-ass stuff. do it right as much as possible.


u guys have more experience, any tips/tricks or suggestions?

also what tools would be helpful and neccessary.

i have:
  1. basic socket and ratchet (probably up to 22-24)
  2. wrenches 8-22
  3. basic tools.
  4. hoist and jacks


any size or specialty tool required? in school we had everything so didnt notice much about tools.

car info:
95 auto 5sfe vert.
thanks in advance.


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post Jan 10, 2012 - 9:12 AM
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stephen_lee



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u need 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21, 30 mm sockets and wrenches (u can skip the 30mm wrench lol)
a good breaker bar
an assortment of extensions
other basic tools
pans to drain fluids into.

the engine/trans should come out together, makes things easier for you.

air tools will make it faster

assuming the engine is ready all you will need to drop the new engine in and run is what was mentioned above, plus an oil change, trans fluid, coolant, and power steering fluid. (plus whatever else you may break, cause i always tend to break atleast one thing kindasad.gif)

This post has been edited by stephen_lee: Jan 10, 2012 - 9:13 AM


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QUOTE
"And, as always, your friendship, help, and dedication to the advancement of Texas Celica dominance is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks bro." -DEATH

1994 GT: V6 swap, 5speed E53 W/ LSD, All Power, now RED
1995 ST: SOLD @273k miles, Auto, all power, CarPC, White
1994 ST: Totaled, 5spd, all power, Red RIP 07/09/09 @ 241,810
1994 Lexus LS400: This is my new DD
post Jan 10, 2012 - 10:06 AM
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Smaay

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its going to be 95% the same as the camry


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2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed
1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap
1990 Celica All-Trac
post Jan 11, 2012 - 4:03 PM
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KAOS



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QUOTE (stephen_lee @ Jan 10, 2012 - 7:12 AM) *
u need 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21, 30 mm sockets and wrenches (u can skip the 30mm wrench lol)
a good breaker bar
an assortment of extensions
other basic tools
pans to drain fluids into.

the engine/trans should come out together, makes things easier for you.

air tools will make it faster

assuming the engine is ready all you will need to drop the new engine in and run is what was mentioned above, plus an oil change, trans fluid, coolant, and power steering fluid. (plus whatever else you may break, cause i always tend to break atleast one thing kindasad.gif)


Don't forget the PB Blaster!! LOL.


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post Jan 11, 2012 - 4:13 PM
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Neon90424

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there are nice Ratcheting wrenches on amazon for like 50$ all the way to like 19mm

worth every penny when they fit where ratchets dont


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post Jan 11, 2012 - 4:15 PM
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KAOS



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QUOTE (Neon90424 @ Jan 11, 2012 - 2:13 PM) *
worth every penny when they fit where ratchets dont


Which is hardly ever... kindasad.gif


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post Jan 11, 2012 - 5:04 PM
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richee3



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I've had the need for ratchet wrenches a few times, but seldom.

Step 1 seems like an extremely unnecessary waste of time. I disconnect the exhaust after the exhaust manifold and leave it at that. I leave the intake manifold on and most of the accessories. The starter ways comes off to remove the clutch slave cylinder, which you can leave attached to the car in order to avoid bleeding it later. Also, the rand should stay attached to the motor. It'll be a pain to get them back together in the car. Swapping motors really isn't that difficult to do though. Good luck thumbsup.gif


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post Jan 11, 2012 - 11:57 PM
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Malhar95

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thanks of the help. seems like i have most what i need.

hmm wiring, whats a better way?


if not asking to much, anybody willing to do a little step-step guide.

not too detailed like "loosen four bolt on the top..." but more like "take starter and other accesories off, and loosen crossmember..."

i dont know, no information can hurt.


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post Jan 12, 2012 - 9:34 AM
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stephen_lee



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leave wiring attached to engine


--------------------
QUOTE
"And, as always, your friendship, help, and dedication to the advancement of Texas Celica dominance is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks bro." -DEATH

1994 GT: V6 swap, 5speed E53 W/ LSD, All Power, now RED
1995 ST: SOLD @273k miles, Auto, all power, CarPC, White
1994 ST: Totaled, 5spd, all power, Red RIP 07/09/09 @ 241,810
1994 Lexus LS400: This is my new DD

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