3SGTE not starting. Options

[Soulend]

Hey everyone, so I am completely stumped now.

after fixing all my major oil water and timing problems, I go to start the car, and it just turns and turns and turns but doesn't actually run... I know my timing is correct.

I've changed the coil wire out, the distro cap, and igniter. just to see if those could cause the problem. I test for spark and fuel, both are fine. I even put fuel into the intake and still nothing.

also, I am sure I only unplugged the radiator. It would start like two weeks ago... I don't get it.

does anyone have any Ideas? I just want to get my car running again...

Kevin

This post has been edited by Soulend: Mar 14, 2012 - 7:07 PM

[lagos]

Is your igniter and coil bolted to the firewall?
Did you connect resistor packs and the injector ground wire (back of the intake manifold)?

[Soulend]

I know for a fact about the igniter and coil are bolted, the injector ground, I can't see it, but I didn't touch them at all.. I didn't even take the engine off any mounts. I mean tomorrow Ill crawl under the car and look.

think there could be anything else?

[Bitter]

engine flooded with fuel? Pull the plugs, dry then, shoot a little starting fluid in the holes, blow it out with compressed air, put the plugs in, try to start with 1/4 throttle.

Or just try cranking with full throttle, then part throttle.

[lagos]

I know for a fact about the igniter and coil are bolted, the injector ground, I can't see it, but I didn't touch them at all.. I didn't even take the engine off any mounts. I mean tomorrow Ill crawl under the car and look.

think there could be anything else?

the injector resistor pack, circuit opening relay, etc...not connected.
This is a 3rd gen, right? Did you do the wiring correctly for the swap?

[Soulend]

I know for a fact about the igniter and coil are bolted, the injector ground, I can't see it, but I didn't touch them at all.. I didn't even take the engine off any mounts. I mean tomorrow Ill crawl under the car and look.

think there could be anything else?

the injector resistor pack, circuit opening relay, etc...not connected.
This is a 3rd gen, right? Did you do the wiring correctly for the swap?

I had Tweak'd do the wiring. but that was over a year ago, I remember what ground you are talking about... I was freaking out trying to think of the ground thinking I hadn't actually had it connected all this time, but I know it's connected.

short verse of the story: had water and oil leaks, changing flywheel and clutch. took it to my friends in another city over a weekend. finished, car ran, but had weak RTV on oil pan leaked almost all oil within two miles of friends house, friend also forgot to tighten oil pulley. so far no damage, re did everything over two weeks, and only touched the radiator, and timing belt side. nothing else should have been messed with.

[Bitter]

SO you have spark, you have injector power and ground pulse and fuel pressure, and the engine has compression?

[Soulend]

SO you have spark, you have injector power and ground pulse and fuel pressure, and the engine has compression?

yes yes and yes.

my dad mentioned the spark might be weak... but it still has spark at the plug.

[enderswift]

did you run a compression test?

[lagos]

If the car ran before and you did the timing belt, and now it wont start, then your timing belt is 180degs off.
We had the same problem with my friends rebuild after he decided to install the timing belt on his own. He had the belt on and everything seemed like it lined up, but the car wouldn't start because he didn't set the belt with the first cylinder at top dead center.

You have to insert a stick or something into cylinder 1 and rotate the crank until lines up at the zero mark with the cylinder at top dead center. Then check to see how your timing belt is lined up on the cam gears. Its really easy to over look this because the match mark will also read zero when cylinder 1 is at the bottom of the compression stroke and this will cause your car not to start.

Don't use RTV on the oil pan. Use the Toyota FIPG sold at the dealer. RTV is good for some stuff but always leaks on the oil pan.

This post has been edited by lagos: Mar 15, 2012 - 11:07 PM

[Soulend]

Whelp, redid the timing, it wasn't 180 out I think one of the cams jumped when the tensioner was release or something because it was like 20-ish degrees past 0.

Thanks for the help. I honestly didn't want to redo the timing belt. but its really on now.


Thanks again,

Kevin