[5S-FE] Syaoran's Build, Update August 14! Options

[Syaoran]

They feel considerably lighter than stock. I need a gram scale to weigh them.

[presure2]

things are looking good in here dude!
only thing i will add here is just about the exhaust manifold. its gonna crack. 100% sure.
but, i assume you already know that. lol
who did you end up having weld up the WG thingy for you, looks great!
loving the rods too, while they may not be that much lighter, its not really about that, its alllll about the rod bolts, thats where the weak point is on the 5s rods anyway.
looking forward to seeing this thing up and running, i dont browse this section much, but ill try and make it a point to stop by once in a while!

[Syaoran]

things are looking good in here dude!
only thing i will add here is just about the exhaust manifold. its gonna crack. 100% sure.
but, i assume you already know that. lol
who did you end up having weld up the WG thingy for you, looks great!
loving the rods too, while they may not be that much lighter, its not really about that, its alllll about the rod bolts, thats where the weak point is on the 5s rods anyway.
looking forward to seeing this thing up and running, i dont browse this section much, but ill try and make it a point to stop by once in a while!

Hey thanks,

If it takes a year to crack I'll be more than happy with it, however I helped a friend build his old MR2 and we used this manifold, except he got the set that comes with the CT26 flange and downpipe. He ended up throwing away the downpipe because he got a t3 instead and bought an adapter for the t3, and mounted the wastegate on there as well. It never cracked for a little over a year. He sold the MR2 to another friend of ours, and he took it off and welded the adapter onto it instead of bolting it on, and up until now it hasn't cracked. Maybe it's one of those lucky one-offs from the chinese factories, let's hope I'm lucky, but I can't really complain for less than $180

I had Chris (CJMR2T) do the work for me, he did a pretty good job, I should have it in my hands by monday to further inspect it.

Yes, the rods hace ARP2000 bolts. I've read the weak point is the bolts on the 5s rods (I had 2 machine shops tell me "why do you want to put the other [3sgte] rods into this crankshaft? These stock rods are beefier than almost all of the other 4-cylinder rods I've seen")

However I was just pointing out how they feel lighter, too, which is always a plus!


For now I just gotta finish taking out the rest of the engine and the transmission so I can take the rotating assembly to have it balanced. Mains are within spec and I'm pretty confident the rods are too, so I really just want to put this thing together and run it already haha.




This post has been edited by Syaoran: Apr 27, 2013 - 12:54 PM

[presure2]

Good stuff.
You'll be lucky if that manifold lasts 3momths without cracking, but sounds like your prepared for it..lol

[Syaoran]

[Syaoran]

Rotating assembly dropped to get it balanced. Old engine is out completely, time to clean the transmission... and stuff.

Updates coming soon. I've been purchasing a couple of things.

[ILoveMySilly97]

Lovely build!

[Syaoran]

Lovely build!

Thanks, more pics coming soon, I want to pile them up lol.

[Syaoran]

Walbro 255lph:

EBCS:

Steering Wheel:

And there's some other stuff but I haven't taken any pictures yet.

[Syaoran]

Steering wheel's on. Feels good. The hub is a cheap one and I feel like it's gonna break anytime soon. Looking to replace it with a quality hub before an accident happens.

Put my side of the interior back on, since everything was off because I had the cluster out. I installed my new cluster back in with some white LEDs for the gauges. The rest of the bulbs were left untouched. Hopefully now it'll all work fine.

Next up is building the engine. I have to do a few modifications to the Camry block, namely cutting and tapering the dipstick tube to the same size as the Celica block's (otherwise the oil cooler will not fit) and also I need to tap a thread into the balance shaft oil feed hole.

After that's done, I can fully assemble the shortblock. Next comes the head, where I have to cut off two of the studs to clear the drive gears on the camshafts, since I'm using the 3SGTE ARP headstud kit. Once that's done I can assemble the head onto the short block.

After that comes the transmission... I really wanna see if I can find a c56 ring gear to replace it with the s5x ring gear to see if I can lower the final drive to make all gears longer.

I'm going to fab up a custom intake manifold probably, but that's for later. I'm going to install it along with a set of cams after I get the car running how I want it to.

[JoshuaM]

Good plans (y)

[Syaoran]

Thanks. I'm really bummed out that I don't have a camera right now. Pics are worth a lot more than words.

[Syaoran]

Dropped the crankshaft, pistons and rods (they only needed the rods but I didn't want to take off the pistons one more time) at the machine shop yesterday at 4PM (they close at 5PM) to get the clearances on the big end done properly for my intended use. Was quoted $45 and estimated to be done by next Thursday.

Machinist called me from his cellphone today at 11AM telling me it was all done! Awesome shiz, so the assembly is now bolted to the engine.

Details will be in my post over at the Engines section of the forum.

[Syaoran]

The head will have to get painted... it looks so bad without paint against everything freshly painted. Had to restore my water pump housing which still was salvageable. The one from the imported engine was a piece of turd.


Anywho, this is how the ARP 3SGTE head studs look after lowering the nut down snugly against the head. I think 3 threads is all that's necessary to cut off.


This post has been edited by Syaoran: Jul 16, 2013 - 10:18 PM

[Syaoran]

In order to get the better oil pan on there, a couple of things have to be modified. The oil pan that comes with camry blocks is crap, it doesn't have any baffles or anything on it so there's nothing keeping the oil inside in the scenario of the front of the car bouncing up.

I modified the splash guard, used my old oil pickup, added two headbolt washers underneath two alternator bracket bolts and it bolts down no issues.

I have to tap the feed hole for the balance shafts and plug it. A camshaft cap bolt fits in perfectly (could almost thread it in) so I'm going out to check the thread pitch on those and getting a tap to tap the hole.

Meanwhile, here's a couple pics. I might do a how to on this but anyone with a little creativity can figure this out pretty fast.

[ricochet1490]

Dirty! Using 5s crank for stroke?

[Syaoran]

Dirty! Using 5s crank for stroke?

It got a thorough cleaning!

This is an all-5s build.

[Syaoran]

Getting there...

[kevin311]

Getting there...

This thread is starting to remind me of Manny's write up. I'm interested to see the kind of gains and what the 5s can handle with forged internals. I'm also debating a 5s build, as parts are so plentiful in the local yards, Camrys are everywhere. I'd like to see the final cost when it's all said and done though, i started looking at pistons and rods and they're not cheap. What's your hp goal!? Keep it up man, I'll definitely be keeping up with this thread!!

[Syaoran]

Hey, thanks for the comment. So far, the rods were $550 shipped plus $75 worth in machining, $110 in pistons, pins and locks, $40 for a new set of bearings, less than $200 between head and block machining, and finally $175 for engine balancing.

I'm still on stock valves, valve springs, retainers and camshafts. The most expensive single part of this build right now has been the Engine Management, which is Megasquirt-III/Extra (MS3X) but it wasn't that much more expensive than the rods.

Aside from those costs, there's a lot of other costs which I say don't count because whatever engine you use will require the same parts (gaskets, seals, pumps, sealants, fluids, clutch to handle the extra power, etc etc etc)

So far I haven't spent much on building the engine. It's all the other extra stuff that costs.