[5S-FE] Syaoran's Build, Update August 14! Options

[6strngs]

Yeah, when I had my 5sfte one of the only things I hated about it was having to relocate the filter, I had so many fricken leaks from those lines! Search ebay for those toyota filters, they have them by the case of 10 and it works out to like $4 a filter. There are some aftermarket filter companies that make a shorter filter than the OEM though. The brand we used when I worked at big O tires used a real short one for toyota's (brand was performax, part # was PO-38 or PO-39, can't remember) I think the Wix filter is slightly shorter than the OEM filter too and is a good quality filter, so you might try that.

[Box]

The Denso filter I got last time was considerably shorter than the OEM filter.

[Syaoran]

There's two OEM filters. YZZF1 and F2, I think. One is longer and the other is shorter. I use the shorter one already.

Will look into the other filters. Right now I've tried Driveworks, Purolator Classic, PureOne, and Fram Ultra. None of them fit because of the same issue, or they're just too long.

[Raggan]

how much HP you running with this build ?

[Syaoran]

No idea yet, haven't gone to the dyno.

[Syaoran]

Cleaned up the cooling fan wiring and installed one of the OEM fans back on and left the other slim fan there. Car cools a lot better now. I also backflushed with a hose and put in another bottle of Peak Radiator Flush for 2 days. I'll be draining it and backflushing it again tomorrow to run straight distilled water with a bottle of Redline Water Wetter to see how it goes.

I also ordered a Competition Stage 4 6-puck clutch to replace my dead clutch. This means dyno soon.

I'm looking for a set of busted MR2 5S-FE mounts to measure to see if I can use the Speedsource full poly mounts. Engine is still a little loose and whacks a bit upon hard shifting even with both front and rear inserts. I got the transmission and passenger mounts brand new too.

[kevin311]

Ahh it won't be long now!

[6strngs]

to run straight distilled water with a bottle of Redline Water Wetter to see how it goes.

Water has a boiling temperature of 212 degrees, with a pressurized cooling system that might be up around 220-225, but that's still not leaving much head room if it starts to overheat even a little. I would probably add at least some coolant, if even only to achieve an 80/20 mix, that'll still bring your boiling point to at least 235-240, much safer IMO. Not to mention that water freezes at 32 degrees and winter is just around the corner... Coolant is also added to prevent corrosion, which if you are having to flush the system then the corrosion process has already started.

Just my opinion, do what you will with it

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Oct 11, 2013 - 9:24 PM

[Box]

He lives on some tropical island, no such thing as winter. The idea is that the water transfers the heat better than glycol, I'd use 70/30 or so myself.

[presure2]

looks great man!!!
ahh.....makes me miss the good ole 5sfte. lots of good times running that setup, and killed SOOOOOOO many naysayers in the process.
cant wait to see your progress as your boost addiction becomes stronger..lol
this is gonna be a blast to watch!

[Syaoran]

to run straight distilled water with a bottle of Redline Water Wetter to see how it goes.

Water has a boiling temperature of 212 degrees, with a pressurized cooling system that might be up around 220-225, but that's still not leaving much head room if it starts to overheat even a little. I would probably add at least some coolant, if even only to achieve an 80/20 mix, that'll still bring your boiling point to at least 235-240, much safer IMO. Not to mention that water freezes at 32 degrees and winter is just around the corner... Coolant is also added to prevent corrosion, which if you are having to flush the system then the corrosion process has already started.

Just my opinion, do what you will with it

Thanks for your concern. In case you don't know what it is:
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10

On the back of the bottle it's recommended to be run with straight water, as water is better at removing heat than coolant is. I don't have to worry about freezing temperatures as Box said, because the lowest my coolant ever gets is 76*F.

Anyhow, the idea is to keep the temperatures below 200*F if possible. With the stock radiator it seems more than likely possible to do so under the current boost level. I hope that when I up the boost the cooling doesn't suffer that much and forces me into getting a larger radiator and more heat shielding to avoid heat soaking.

I currently switched back to one of the OE cooling fans (the radiator fan) and left one of the eBay fans I bought to assist it. So far, it's improved dramatically in terms of temperature control. I haven't seen it go up past 192*F even with the cleaning agent still inside the system which I'll flush out most likely tomorrow. We'll see how it goes.

looks great man!!!
ahh.....makes me miss the good ole 5sfte. lots of good times running that setup, and killed SOOOOOOO many naysayers in the process.
cant wait to see your progress as your boost addiction becomes stronger..lol
this is gonna be a blast to watch!

Thanks man! This has been fun so far. Few issues here and there but it's to be expected with a turbocharged engine. I'm currently looking into getting a 3SGTE 2nd Gen oil pan, because the guy who did my oil return did a piss poor job and now it's sweating oil through the welds.

[Syaoran]

P.S.: Use headphones

http://s269.photobucket.com/user/arolbreak...a14cf6.mp4.html

[kevin311]

Nice job dude sounds beastly

[presure2]

yup, the 2nd gen oilpan is the best solution, IMO, it bolts right on, and works perfectly.

i wouldnt be worried about coolant temps. our cooling systems are pretty stout, even with the turbo setup.

[Syaoran]

yup, the 2nd gen oilpan is the best solution, IMO, it bolts right on, and works perfectly.

i wouldnt be worried about coolant temps. our cooling systems are pretty stout, even with the turbo setup.

The stock pan uses 5/8" hose fitting right?

Nice job dude sounds beastly

Thanks!

[Syaoran]

Update:

New Competition Clutch Stage 4 clutch fitted. Broken in.

Currently running on 91oct, was tuned at 8PSI, ran (at the track of course) with a 220whp K24-swapped 2006 Civic Coupe and I won. Afterwards we raised the boost up to 15 PSI and the car ran like a demon straight outta hell, however we turned it down because we though we heard light knocking and the tuner didn't feel comfortable with 91 octane. I need methanol injection.

Currently tuned at 10PSI. Pulls pretty good. Missing the 15PSI lol, dyno sheets coming soon hopefully.

[6strngs]

Careful with that boost, I blew up my 5sfte at around 12-13 PSI, granted I was only "tuned" with an SAFC. I also just shot a rod through the side of the block in my miata when it started getting boost creep to 15 psi.

[Syaoran]

Careful with that boost, I blew up my 5sfte at around 12-13 PSI, granted I was only "tuned" with an SAFC. I also just shot a rod through the side of the block in my miata when it started getting boost creep to 15 psi.

Engines don't blow based on how much boost they're fed, a rod shot through the block happened either by oil starvation or heavy knocking/pinging...

But it feels pretty good at 10PSI still

[ILoveMySilly97]

Thinking about slightly changing the piping on the left side so that instead of a coupler you can see a pipe, because I'm kinda OCD like that.

Why not install foglights instead? Lol.

[Syaoran]

Definitely can't. Piping won't let me.