how to remove your tranny (MANUAL) 5sfe, great info if you need to replace your clutch Options

[chacha]

in my case, im replacing a clutch because im slipping.

ill come back to clean this better, but the tools are:

12mm-19mm sockets needed with a Strong breaker bar and a "Y" horse shoe to help pry open the axle from the driver side.

Two jack stands for the car

2-3 hydro jacks needed; one support the engine, one support the tranny

Cherry picker can ease the lowering of the tranny...

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS for CELICA

Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)

Flywheel Bolts
4A-FE ........................................... 58 (79)
5S-FE ........................................... 65 (88)
3S-GTE ......................................... 80 (108)

Pressure Plate Bolts ............................ 14 (19)

Transaxle-To-Engine Bolts
10-mm Bolts ..................................... 34 (46)
12-mm Bolts ..................................... 47 (64)

Wheel Lug Nuts ................................. 76 (103)


TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS (CELICA ALL-TRAC)

Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)

Dynamic Damper Bolt .............................. 19 (26)

Engine Mount

Crossmember-To-Underbody Bolt ................. 38 (52)

Bracket-To-Engine Bolts (Right Front) ......... 38 (52)

Insulator Through Bolt ........................ 64 (87)

Insulator-To-Bracket Nuts (Right Front) ....... 38 (52)

Mount-To-Crossmember Bolt ..................... 54 (73)

Flywheel Bolt .................................... 65 (88)

Power Steering Pump Bolt ......................... 32 (43)

Pressure Plate Bolts ............................. 14 (19)

Stiffener Support Brace Bolt

(Engine Block-To-Flywheel Housing) .............. 27 (37)

Strut Tower-To-Firewall Brace
Bolt ........................................... 15 (20)
Nut ............................................ 47 (64)

Suspension Crossmember Bolt .................... 112 (152)

Transaxle-To-Engine Bolts
10-mm Bolts .................................... 34 (46)
12-mm Bolts .................................... 47 (64)

Wheel Lug Nuts .................................. 76 (103)


Things to move out of the way:

0. Remove all under panels and cross bar member with the front and rear engine mounts off. (Take off the Down pipe connected to the exhaust manifold too for ease)

1. Driver and Passenger side axles. (tie rod and suspension strut will have to come out for ease of taking axles out)

2. radiator so you can move more freely; as well as the upper and lower radiator tube

3. unplug the sensors on the tranny....i believe there are only two on my GT 2.2L 5sfe

4. Remove the pins from the shifting links...(there are 2)

5. remove the Clutch Cylinder slave (there should be two bolts holding it; DO NOT REMOVE THE ACTUATOR LINES CONNECTED TO THE SLAVE UNIT); follow this to the side of the tranny there is a bolt also holding the clutch fluid line (remove that instead of taking off the line; easier to remove bracket with line on it by taking off the bolt)

6. SAVE the engine mount bolt (there should be 3 holding to the metal bracket on the transmission) for last...do not remove the bolt in the middle of the driver side engine mount


here are the location of the bolts... 11 of them total: **HINT: make sure engine and tranny are evenly balance and then remove the 3 bolts on the driver side engine mount, then WRIGGLE that darn thing left and right to get it out.




picture of the the tranny off exposing the flywheel:




OEM VS NEW CLUTCH


NEW Spec clutch stage 3+ (got it cheap for $150 shipped; so i invested, more than enough for my DD, but it was cheap and figured i try it, stage 1 was $250 already not including ship):






OLD:










in working progress....will update later. off to the store low on cash

This post has been edited by chacha: Mar 7, 2011 - 9:26 PM

[Smaay]

if you are sure you got all the bolts, then you just need to wiggle the tranny, it will start to come off. you have great pics but without seeing it i really cant tell whats missing

[bsamps4]

It's actually really hard to tell from the pics, but it seems to me that you need to move the block supporting the motor a little closer to the pulley side. Try shaking the transmission by hand. This should help you find if you have missed a step somewhere. Good Luck.

[chacha]

I really thought taking this tranny out was going to be a simple task if i get everything out of the way, but it seems a lot harder than i thought it would be. THANKS you guys...i really did try, it is a pain in the butt...i think i did get all the bolts...how many are there exactly? i struggled wiggling it, but no luck, the bottom of the tranny crack open a little bit, but no luck...gotta get up in the morning to try again. it's getting dark and sprinkling rain drops here and there with wind blowing.

what pics or angle of the pics do you guys need, better yet, does anyone have the complete manual for servicing for the 5sfe engine?

thanks again for responding.

This post has been edited by chacha: Mar 6, 2011 - 8:32 PM

[cyberblader1130]

Hopefully someone makes a write-up for this, I am going to be removing my 95 5SFE Tranny sometime soon once i find a suitable storage space for it. It would be nice having something to follow. :-P

[bsamps4]

If you are shaking it and it isn't moving at all then it is likely that you missed a bolt. It's probably the upper bolt that is hard to see because it is blocked by the engine harness. If it isn't that one then you are going to have to get the bolt that is right behind the motor right above the right hand output.

[chacha]

i checked and i couldn't see any more bolts...removed both axles and couldn't find any...ask a few and they told me i need to jack up the engine with another hydro jack and have one for the tranny. said the engine and tranny must be jacked up and then wriggle the tranny out. first time doing this so im a little weary about the tranny falling down on the ground or on me.

the engine was only held by the passenger side mount and same for the tranny (only the driver side mount). the bottom of the tranny crack open a little but the top was flushed together still. the engine was dangling towards the middle at a angle and so was the tranny since each was held by one motor mount.

[chacha]

how many bolts does the regular 5sfe tranny have?

[csscza]

just pulled mine, theres two bolts on top that I had missed at first did u get those? also the black plate, cover what ever it is also had 2 bolts.

This post has been edited by csscza: Mar 7, 2011 - 12:10 PM

[chacha]

thanks C, i already pulled that bolt in the upper portion on the black plate cover and tranny (i believe one on each side)...better picture up

i only counted 11 bolts, am i missing any more bolts i couldn't see?

This post has been edited by chacha: Mar 7, 2011 - 12:45 PM

[chacha]

had problems in the beginning and now it is in working progress...changed my thread to a how to... hopefully this will help others out too

This post has been edited by chacha: Mar 7, 2011 - 4:12 PM

[chacha]

does our 5sfe teanny have a pilot bearing?

[Smaay]

no, FWD cars do not have a pilot bearing

[chacha]

okay thanks...

cross member bar is dirty, but i will clean it later




NEW oem engine front and rear motor mounts with Kirk poly-inserts




the tranny was dirty so i took it for a clean scrub and wash...wished i could have it taken to the shop for a better result, but no money, no funny.

Before:






After:







It was an all day work...but at least not as gunky as before

Tomorrow im taking the flywheel to the shop to get it surface....and hopefully, ill finish the install.

This post has been edited by chacha: Mar 7, 2011 - 9:21 PM

[chacha]

another question...i have the spec stage 3+ clutch....if i use that with the standard flywheel being resurfaced...will i be okay, or would i need to get a new flywheel or the billet aluminum flywheel? the material on the stage3+ clutch seems to be more sturdy and compose of ceramic metal whereas the old one looks to be of softer material. im just afraid the new clutch because of higher grade material will damage my flywheel (standard use and resurface). any thoughts this you guys?

[chacha]

oh well, i went ahead and bought a sach flywheel new for $60 buck..i would like the Billet aluminum, but didn't have the $400 cash to give out... i clean the inside of the engine wall facing the backside of the flywheel...not all. but most....clean and scrub the outer rim of the tranny where the housing and engine meets for a clean surface and follow most guide line through this video:

butter up the throw arm (don't know if that is right, but this thing):


and install flywheel with a torque tool wrench....


i had to put the socket in like this with the breaker bar....


torque everything to 65lbs in a star diagram....

[chacha]

i screwed myself up i think....i installed the shift link cables back in, and everything is up, but now my shift lever isn't moving...from side to side, i can't move it around....going to first or second, it won't budge....it is hard to push it to shift....

anyone got a pic of how the shift link cables are suppose to go in?

having air bubbles in the accuator = could it cause that to happen.

[chacha]

okay...cables were install in wrong...switched and it work...now, the engine won't crank over...

any ideas...try taking starter to test....pass with flying colors....is there an amp fuse maybe that's blown...

[malecrod]

make sure you connect your ground cable to tranny, the 2 connectors to tranny and also the connection to the starter.

[chacha]

fixed....turn out to be the starter...replaced with a old cressida's starter...luckily toyota are the same...the adapter is differ, but use some adjustments....splicing and start her up...drives GREAT...ill clean this up later. thanks for all your help.

This post has been edited by chacha: Mar 12, 2011 - 10:19 PM