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> Takumi's 94 Toyota Celica ST
post May 15, 2013 - 1:06 PM
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Takumi-FujiWaraS...



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Sel it to ya valve cover included!CHEAP!


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Cleaning and improving my new found yoter little by little.
post May 15, 2013 - 1:17 PM
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Keiri



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Saw it on Craigslist as well and thought I recognized the front lip.

I wish you luck on resolving the oil issues.


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Has no more Celicas
post May 15, 2013 - 1:23 PM
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Takumi-FujiWaraS...



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If i don't it's gone, my fox and honda ****s up aswell. Tired of messing with the ****.


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Cleaning and improving my new found yoter little by little.
post May 16, 2013 - 11:43 PM
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Takumi-FujiWaraS...



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Well compression test were fine. Warm engine even #1 showed 165psi no greater than 15% variance, i'm going to try an get ahold of a leak down tester asap to try an pinpoint the issue. I am hoping valve related issue but it's pissing out the oil which i've never seen.


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Cleaning and improving my new found yoter little by little.
post May 17, 2013 - 12:06 AM
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Box



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Generally valve stem seals only let oil in while the car is sitting, and it'll smoke at start-up for a few minutes. The 7A-FE is notorious for stuck oil rings, but I don't think that'd cause the severe loss of oil. Silly question, has it been overfilled?


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2001 Miata LS 5-speed
post May 17, 2013 - 12:27 AM
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Takumi-FujiWaraS...



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Yep i know how the "usual" stem seal does. Well had ams oil 5w20 in it roughly 4 quarts stepped up to a heavier weight same deal. My book says 3.4-3.9.

Reason why i'm going to do a leak down, this is excessive amount.


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Cleaning and improving my new found yoter little by little.
post May 17, 2013 - 12:59 AM
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Box



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10W30 is what it calls for, and around 4 quarts with filter is right. I guess will better know after doing a leak down test. The oil either has to be coming from below the pistons via stuck/blown rings or from above due to the valve-train. Being compression checked out I'd be leaning towards something with the valve-train. Could try running it with 20W50 to see if that slows it down enough.


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2001 Miata LS 5-speed
post May 17, 2013 - 1:23 AM
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Takumi-FujiWaraS...



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Oil weights a preference in my eyes, but i did do a wet test to no change. At the moment still burning through 15w40 rotella so it's bad. Coming from messing with engines for a decade as a hobby and doing it here and there for others i've never seen such massive amounts just drip out of a port in 5-10 seconds and massive clouds of oil smoke to boot.

Kinda upset about the situation, but if i have to tear her down and rebuild it so be it. On the other hand my blown up 7a has a good head which would be more cost efficient than a rebuild, so i hope its a valve related issue quick simple cheap fix.


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Cleaning and improving my new found yoter little by little.
post May 17, 2013 - 12:55 PM
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Hopefully that's the case and you can just swap the head over and call it a day.


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post May 17, 2013 - 4:07 PM
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Takumi-FujiWaraS...



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We shall see, l looked for awhile for clearance specifications on here for rebuilding it and came up empty. No where can i find ring end gaps, piston to wall clearance, main or rod bearing clearances.


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Cleaning and improving my new found yoter little by little.
post May 17, 2013 - 5:10 PM
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Takumi-FujiWaraS...



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Just went ahead and bought a leak down should be here early next week.


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Cleaning and improving my new found yoter little by little.
post May 19, 2013 - 9:15 PM
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Takumi-FujiWaraS...



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Just some info I've came up on for 4afe and 7afe.

In. MM.

Rings
No. 1
End Gap
Standard .010-.018 (.25-.45)
Wear Limit .042 (1.07)
Side Clearance .0018-.0035 (.045-.090)

No. 2
End Gap
Standard .014-.020 (.35-.50)
Wear Limit .0472 (1.20)
Side Clearance .0012-.0028 (.030-.071)

No. 3 (Oil)
End Gap
Standard .006-.018 (.15-.45)
Wear Limit .041 (1.05)

Piston to wall clearance .004 (.101)

On 1.8L, measure rod bolt .787" (20 mm) from head of
bolt. Minimum diameter is .276" (7 mm). On all engines
replace rod bolt and nut if less than minimum diameter.
3) Note mark at center of connecting rod, which must be
aligned with front mark on top of piston. Install
connecting rod in original direction. Install piston with front mark
on piston top toward timing belt end of engine.

Main bearing clearance should be .0006-.0013" (.015-.033 mm)

And ofcourse on rod bearings you can either decode the block or measure with plastgauge or precise tools to get the desired clearances you need/want. Myself I've always been happy with .015-.019 on my Hondas which I will most likely shoot for if bearings do need replacing.
BC = IDBT – ODC – (2 x BT)
BC = bearing clearance
IDBT = inside diameter of bearing tunnel (housing bore)
ODC = outside diameter of crank journal
BT = bearing thickness
Formula applies to mains aswell.
"1" ...................................... .0585-.0587 (1.486-1.490)
"2" ...................................... .0587-.0588 (1.490-1.494)
"3" ...................................... .0588-.0590 (1.494-1.498)

Figured since I found some info I was looking for I would post it here so I can refer back to it.


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Cleaning and improving my new found yoter little by little.
post May 19, 2013 - 9:18 PM
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ricochet1490



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Find the problem yet?

This post has been edited by ricochet1490: May 19, 2013 - 9:18 PM


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post May 19, 2013 - 9:19 PM
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Takumi-FujiWaraS...



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Waiting on my leak down tester to come in bud, hoping for the best expecting the worse ha.


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Cleaning and improving my new found yoter little by little.
post May 21, 2013 - 12:39 PM
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Takumi-FujiWaraS...



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Well good news they warranted the engine and gave me two options ....... either A pull it and get a full refund (Because they didn't have any other 7As) or B take a bit of money instead.

So i went with B, is their any higher CR OEM pistons that will work with the stock rods?

This post has been edited by Takumi-FujiWaraST: May 21, 2013 - 12:41 PM


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Cleaning and improving my new found yoter little by little.
post May 21, 2013 - 3:46 PM
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While you're going through all of this you should looking into making the 7A-GE.


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2001 Miata LS 5-speed
post May 21, 2013 - 4:14 PM
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Takumi-FujiWaraS...



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I've looked into it and came to the conclusion that it would be just easier to get a whole 4age. Don't know what the wiring consist of (which i hate), but read it bolts up to the ST trans using stock mounting points. If job works out i'll just go that way and say bye to the 7a.


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Cleaning and improving my new found yoter little by little.
post May 21, 2013 - 8:11 PM
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Takumi-FujiWaraS...



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Just did a leak down all cylinder's showed 10-20%. Once or twice i got the cylinder next to #1 to whistle, signs of cracked head/block or seeping head gasket.

So pretty much stuck oil rings or massive stem seal issues. Wondering if plopp'n my other head on is worth a go besides re ringing at the moment.

Box (or anyone) where can a 4age topend be acquired for a decent price?


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Cleaning and improving my new found yoter little by little.
post May 21, 2013 - 8:57 PM
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Box



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You're local junk yards would be the best place to get parts. The following cars had the 4A-GE:
AT160 Celica 1985–1989
AE82 Corolla saloon, FX 1984–1987
AE86 Corolla Levin 1983–1987
AE92 Corolla 1987–1993
AW11 MR2 1984–1989
Chevrolet Nova (based on Corolla AE82) 1986-1988
Geo Prizm GSi (based on Toyota AE92 chassis) 1990–1992


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2001 Miata LS 5-speed
post May 23, 2013 - 6:14 PM
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Takumi-FujiWaraS...



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Got work at the moment (and a check from where i got the engine) so since the celica is my dd i am thinking i will rebuild the 7a. Port the head and intake an hopefully buy a set of mild cams in the feature.

The 4afe cams will work correct?


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Cleaning and improving my new found yoter little by little.

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