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> Passenger CV half shaft, input would be apperciated
post Jun 22, 2012 - 9:57 AM
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AuffyZ



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Ok i'm going to be replacing my half shaft in the next couple of day and i was wondering where a good place to go online that has step by step instructions to refer back to incase i get stuck!

Any help will be apperciated! Thankyou
post Jun 22, 2012 - 11:53 AM
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Smaay

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find instructions on changing clutch, in fact, read this, I wrote it for a 7th gen, but the instructions are almost identical

http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=334603


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2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed
1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap
1990 Celica All-Trac
post Jun 22, 2012 - 6:55 PM
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match220



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As far as a guide, the one above looks straight forward enough except that it's a 7th gen. The axle nut is going to be the hardest thing to get off if you don't have an impact. I usually have someone press the brakes and hold the steering wheel (car off) while I try to loosen the axle nut. If it is too stuck on, then pop out the center cap of the rim so you can put the rim back on and use your socket (30mm) through where the center cap was and set the wheel back on the ground. After it slips loose then raise the car back up. If you have the 2.2, the passenger side is considerably easier than the driver side, except that you have to pop out a c-clip in the middle of the shaft after you have it all taken out so you can change the bracket over to the newer shaft.

This post has been edited by match220: Jun 22, 2012 - 6:56 PM


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-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Jun 23, 2012 - 4:18 AM
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ILoveMySilly97



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This YouTube video is actually a video about replacing the passenger front axle off of a 6th gen celica gt. Just do what he is. Replacing the axle is actually fairly simple but just time consuming. Hardest part for me was trying to get the bracket bearing off the old axle and onto the new. Now that was a pain in the ass. Took me 2 hours! But that's only because it was my first time replacing an axle. Lol. If you got any questions just ask me and I'll help out. Just replaced my axle like a month ago and going to replace the driver side sometime next year or later this year. smile.gif

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEwSe4xjD4Q


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post Jun 23, 2012 - 4:53 AM
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match220



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QUOTE (ILoveMySilly97 @ Jun 22, 2012 - 11:18 PM) *
..... Hardest part for me was trying to get the bracket bearing off the old axle and onto the new. Now that was a pain in the ass.....


I can see how it would be hard the first time. This was the c-clip that I was referring to in my post above. Take a couple screwdrivers and pry inward with one while prying up with the other, you might need a second set of hands to help you with it. After this just tap with a hammer in a circle a million times and it will come off...slowly but surely. Make sure when you tap the other one on that you put the c-clip on the side that it needs to be first..remember this above all! Or you will be kicking yourself for putting the bracket on without the clip.


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Jun 23, 2012 - 6:09 AM
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BonzaiCelica



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if you don't have an impact gun. use a 24" breaker bar. they usually cost about $24 and have lifetime warranty. haha I broke one trying to get an axle nut of a v6 infiniti i30. then you can just return it right after.

yea about that c clip. Use one flathead screw driver. Once you shove it under the c clip. tap the screw driver with a hammer in a clockwise position. The same thing you do when removing the tire on a bicycle rim. you also might have to hammer the bracket off the bearing after you take off the Snap Ring correct term(the C-clip). Take some wd40 and hit it where the two bolts attach to slowly but surely it'll come loose.


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Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
post Jun 23, 2012 - 9:58 AM
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Smaay

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one thing i forgot to mention is the 7th gen axle nut is detented onto the axle, the 6th gen has a castle nut. they are much easier. just take the cotter pin out and the cover off the nut and break it loose.


--------------------
2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed
1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap
1990 Celica All-Trac
post Jun 24, 2012 - 12:15 PM
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AuffyZ



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thanks guy for all your help! I'm doing this monday so if I have questions ill be hitting you all up then! Thanks again!

post Jun 24, 2012 - 4:38 PM
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Special_Edy



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Maybe Ill make a video for you.

First you need to lift the car and place it on a jackstand with the Ebrake on. Remove the lug nuts and wheel, then the cotter pin and castle shaped washer. Next grab a 2-3 ft section of 2x4. Wedge one end of the 2x4 against the brake pedal (fully depressed) and the other end against the seat. Slide the seat forward and lock it so that it is holding the brake pedal down with the 2x4.
Ok now use a 1/2inch drive socket and ratchet on the axle nut. I had to use an 8ft piece of heavy fence post as a breaker bar to get mine loose and I would suggest trying it to anyone else removing axles.
Now you need to hammer the axle back out of the hub. Dont use a metal hammer directly on the axle or you will mess up the threads. Once it has broken loose you can unbolt the lower balljoint. Use a large screwdriver or prybar to lift the balljoint off the control arm. Now you can swing the hub away and pull the axle free from it.
For the passenger side axle you will need to remove the carrier bearing. I believe it has 2 bolts holding it on. Once it is unbolted you can slide the axle out of the transmission. Make sure to catch the Transaxle fluid that is gonna come running out when you pull the axle out.

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: Jun 24, 2012 - 4:49 PM
post Jun 24, 2012 - 11:41 PM
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BonzaiCelica



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^^^ yea that will work but seems like way too much work. make sure you have a 6 point (so not to strip nut) 30mm socket when removing the axle nut (or 32mm if thats our size?) throw some wd40 on the nut to loosen it up a bit. OEM specs says to torque it down to 159 ft lb torque. With a 24 inch breaker bar it should come off. On most if not all rims, including oem you can remove the center cap and remove the cotter pin and axle with the cars front wheels on the ground.

do not jump or bounce the breaker bar in order to get it off. yea the longer the piping the better leverage.

how much fluid do you lose anyhow when you remove one axle?? The drain plug on the transmission is obviously lower than the mounting points for the axles. The s54 take 2.2 liters. SO you'll maybe loose a half a quart??

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jun 24, 2012 - 11:43 PM


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Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
post Jun 25, 2012 - 10:31 PM
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ILoveMySilly97



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QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jun 25, 2012 - 12:41 AM) *
^^^ yea that will work but seems like way too much work. make sure you have a 6 point (so not to strip nut) 30mm socket when removing the axle nut (or 32mm if thats our size?) throw some wd40 on the nut to loosen it up a bit. OEM specs says to torque it down to 159 ft lb torque. With a 24 inch breaker bar it should come off. On most if not all rims, including oem you can remove the center cap and remove the cotter pin and axle with the cars front wheels on the ground.

do not jump or bounce the breaker bar in order to get it off. yea the longer the piping the better leverage.

how much fluid do you lose anyhow when you remove one axle?? The drain plug on the transmission is obviously lower than the mounting points for the axles. The s54 take 2.2 liters. SO you'll maybe loose a half a quart??


Word of advice is to not BUY a 30mm socket but just go to your local auto parts store that has a "loan-a-tool" service. They have both the fork lever and the 30mm axle socket remover. When I changed mine I lost about a little over a quart. You can use Pennzoil Synchromesh to refill your transmission fluid. I believe our transmission holds 2.7 or 3.1 quarts? Don't remember.


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post Jun 26, 2012 - 1:50 AM
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BonzaiCelica



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its 2.2 liter yo!!! I put 3 quartz from the top of the 24mm plug and turn out that's not where your supposed to fill it up from. Your supposed to fill it up from the overflow 24mm plug that's pointing somewhat downward right in front of the radiator fan. I opened the overflow plug and lots of fluid came out. Closed it back up till no more came out


--------------------
Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
post Jun 26, 2012 - 8:58 AM
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purplegt4



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to prevent the wheel from spinning you can put a screwdriver in the vented rotor, through the caliper. works for torquing on/off.
post Jun 27, 2012 - 7:08 PM
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ILoveMySilly97



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QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jun 26, 2012 - 2:50 AM) *
its 2.2 liter yo!!! I put 3 quartz from the top of the 24mm plug and turn out that's not where your supposed to fill it up from. Your supposed to fill it up from the overflow 24mm plug that's pointing somewhat downward right in front of the radiator fan. I opened the overflow plug and lots of fluid came out. Closed it back up till no more came out


I'm still tripping about the 24mm. That's such an oversized socket. Lol.


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post Jun 27, 2012 - 8:47 PM
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match220



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QUOTE (ILoveMySilly97 @ Jun 27, 2012 - 2:08 PM) *
QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jun 26, 2012 - 2:50 AM) *
its 2.2 liter yo!!! I put 3 quartz from the top of the 24mm plug and turn out that's not where your supposed to fill it up from. Your supposed to fill it up from the overflow 24mm plug that's pointing somewhat downward right in front of the radiator fan. I opened the overflow plug and lots of fluid came out. Closed it back up till no more came out


I'm still tripping about the 24mm. That's such an oversized socket. Lol.


most of the transmission filler plugs are that size. Some german ones will have 10mm hex head I think.


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Jun 27, 2012 - 10:20 PM
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BonzaiCelica



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QUOTE (ILoveMySilly97 @ Jun 27, 2012 - 7:08 PM) *
QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jun 26, 2012 - 2:50 AM) *
its 2.2 liter yo!!! I put 3 quartz from the top of the 24mm plug and turn out that's not where your supposed to fill it up from. Your supposed to fill it up from the overflow 24mm plug that's pointing somewhat downward right in front of the radiator fan. I opened the overflow plug and lots of fluid came out. Closed it back up till no more came out


I'm still tripping about the 24mm. That's such an oversized socket. Lol.


haha yea right why can't it be 14mm like the oil pan. Well logically speaking the transmission oil is thicker than engine oil


--------------------
Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
post Jun 27, 2012 - 11:25 PM
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ILoveMySilly97



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QUOTE (match220 @ Jun 27, 2012 - 9:47 PM) *
QUOTE (ILoveMySilly97 @ Jun 27, 2012 - 2:08 PM) *
QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jun 26, 2012 - 2:50 AM) *
its 2.2 liter yo!!! I put 3 quartz from the top of the 24mm plug and turn out that's not where your supposed to fill it up from. Your supposed to fill it up from the overflow 24mm plug that's pointing somewhat downward right in front of the radiator fan. I opened the overflow plug and lots of fluid came out. Closed it back up till no more came out


I'm still tripping about the 24mm. That's such an oversized socket. Lol.


most of the transmission filler plugs are that size. Some german ones will have 10mm hex head I think.


Really? I know that Acuras and Hondas has 17mm.


--------------------
post Jun 27, 2012 - 11:49 PM
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match220



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QUOTE (ILoveMySilly97 @ Jun 27, 2012 - 6:25 PM) *
QUOTE (match220 @ Jun 27, 2012 - 9:47 PM) *
QUOTE (ILoveMySilly97 @ Jun 27, 2012 - 2:08 PM) *
QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jun 26, 2012 - 2:50 AM) *
its 2.2 liter yo!!! I put 3 quartz from the top of the 24mm plug and turn out that's not where your supposed to fill it up from. Your supposed to fill it up from the overflow 24mm plug that's pointing somewhat downward right in front of the radiator fan. I opened the overflow plug and lots of fluid came out. Closed it back up till no more came out


I'm still tripping about the 24mm. That's such an oversized socket. Lol.


most of the transmission filler plugs are that size. Some german ones will have 10mm hex head I think.


Really? I know that Acuras and Hondas has 17mm.


huh, maybe it's half and half then..most of them I remember are huge. Maybe it's because when I have to dig through sockets I remember..lol. Toyotas are large, evos are large, fords are small, and german cars are large but they take a 10mm hex key. There is either a kia or a hyundai that has a huge oil drain plug and small lug nuts..lol, since we are talking about drain plugs.


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Jun 29, 2012 - 7:34 PM
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ILoveMySilly97



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QUOTE (match220 @ Jun 28, 2012 - 12:49 AM) *
QUOTE (ILoveMySilly97 @ Jun 27, 2012 - 6:25 PM) *
QUOTE (match220 @ Jun 27, 2012 - 9:47 PM) *
QUOTE (ILoveMySilly97 @ Jun 27, 2012 - 2:08 PM) *
QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Jun 26, 2012 - 2:50 AM) *
its 2.2 liter yo!!! I put 3 quartz from the top of the 24mm plug and turn out that's not where your supposed to fill it up from. Your supposed to fill it up from the overflow 24mm plug that's pointing somewhat downward right in front of the radiator fan. I opened the overflow plug and lots of fluid came out. Closed it back up till no more came out


I'm still tripping about the 24mm. That's such an oversized socket. Lol.


most of the transmission filler plugs are that size. Some german ones will have 10mm hex head I think.


Really? I know that Acuras and Hondas has 17mm.


huh, maybe it's half and half then..most of them I remember are huge. Maybe it's because when I have to dig through sockets I remember..lol. Toyotas are large, evos are large, fords are small, and german cars are large but they take a 10mm hex key. There is either a kia or a hyundai that has a huge oil drain plug and small lug nuts..lol, since we are talking about drain plugs.


Ha. I guess. Go BIG or go HOME.


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