Engine troubles, need some tips, I have a few leads, but nothing major Options

[HectortheRican]

I'm going to go through today's events to see if there's some hidden cause to a problem that I'm missing. Here goes:

Today, I tried to wire my fog lights. I disconnected the negative terminal and jacked up the car, normal things I've done before. I was working for about 3 hours then I put the car back down and I reconnected the battery. I let it sit for roughly 20 minutes, then I checked the oil because I figured 20 minutes was enough to settle the oil. It was about half full, so I topped it off. I was running late, so I drove a bit spiritedly (about as spiritedly as one can drive with the monstrous hp and tq of a Celica ST ). After a 2.5 hour movie with my sister, I got in the car and started her up. That's when the troubles started.

It started with a lopey idle. I put my hand at the exhaust and it felt like the motor was just burping repeatedly. Not smooth by any means. The idle was so rough and lopey that the car actually shook while stationary. Despite better judgement, I drove home (I was 5 miles away). As I was approaching home, my exhaust started sounding oddly deeper and I wasn't accelerating as quickly (I feel odd using that word for an ST) as I usually do. So I arrived home and immediately popped the hood. Very quickly, I noticed the smell of sulfur and there was an odd clicking-type noise near the timing belt/accessory belt area.

Does anyone know what could be going on? I tried to describe everything as clearly as I could. I know it's a lot to read, so I thank you for your time and I really appreciate it.

Edit: I'm no mechanical genius, but it almost seems to me like the motor is running very lean and starving for fuel.

This post has been edited by HectortheRican: Jul 12, 2012 - 6:28 PM

[richee3]

I'd take the upper timing cover off and start there, see if your belt somehow skipped a tooth or something. No check engine light, I'm assuming? I'd also check spark plugs/wires, make sure you're firing on all four. Then take a really long screwdriver and listen to the injectors just to be sure they're working.

[HectortheRican]

How do I check plugs again? And how would I use the screwdriver to check the injectors?

[richee3]

To check the plugs, just pull the EFI fuse from the fuse box under the hood, then pull each plug out one at a time. Keep it attached to the wire and crank the starter and watch to see if it sparks. You'll want a second person for that, obviously. You might need to let the plug touch the head so it can ground out- I'm not sure on that.

To check the injectors, take a really long screwdriver (I mean like a 2 footer if you can) and put the bit on the injector with the car running. Put your ear ear on the handle of the screwdriver. You should hear clicking of the injector is working. There might be an easier way to check the injectors but this is the way I've always done it.

I doubt if these are your problems but I'm just trying to rule out the easy and obvious. It might be your plug wires but I doubt if it's a plug or injector. Have you tried starting the car since then to see if the problem persists?

[HectortheRican]

I just checked all of the plugs. Cylinder 3's plug was covered in oil deposits and the other plugs show that they've been firing too hot. So that narrows it down to worn gaskets, letting oil in (I knew about that, though), over-advanced ignition timing (maybe the belt somehow slipped a tooth. Haven't checked that yet), running lean (which she was), intake vacuum leaks (which my mechanic suggested after I described everything to him), or insufficient engine cooling (don't think it's this, though. Temp was nominal when I was noticing the problems and there's plenty of coolant in the reservoir).

Edit: I was actually mistaken. Upon a closer look, the coolant reservoir is dry. However, the rad is full to the brim of coolant.

Edit 2: I'm going to go walk to Pep Boys in the morning (luckily I live extremely close to one) to buy 4 new spark plugs. The oily one was so, incredibly covered in oil that there's no way it could've been firing. I'm pretty confident that's the issue. I'll report back tomorrow morning.

This post has been edited by HectortheRican: Jul 13, 2012 - 1:30 AM

[HectortheRican]

Well, new spark plugs fixed the problem for now. I was only running on 3 cylinders yesterday. The faulty plug was coated in oil and there was oil in that cylinder, too. It's a known problem, though. My valve seals and possibly piston rings are worn. My mechanic says that it'd be a ballpark $2,000 head job to fix that and that's just too much. For that money, I'd rather ditch the ST, find a suitable GT and swap over all of my goodies. I'm just sick and tired of dropping repair money on this car.

[Tigawoods]

for 2 k you are right. just swap something into it

[richee3]

Let's start the list of engines that $2k buys you...

I'm pretty sure Kurt and Smaay's ballpark figures for the 1MZ swaps are around that area.

[kurt95gt]

If he had a gt I'd say a 1mz for 2 grand would be no problem
It might be possible in 2500-3000 tho

[Tigawoods]

I may be wrong but I dont see hector doing a big swap.

prove me wrong hector

This post has been edited by Tigawoods: Jul 13, 2012 - 11:30 AM

[kurt95gt]

He could probably do a 3vz swap on an st for 2k
He'd need a s54 gt axles an crossmember
Get a pass side mount off of smaay.
Send he's harness to Mr220v an get a south bend hybrid clutch.
Should be able to find a 3vz for around 300-400 (1mz for around 509-600)
Harness is 430
Smaay said its 150 for the mount
Ny clutch was 285
An he can use the stock 3vz flywheel on rather motor
If he can find a gt parts car with a good trans for under 500
He could pull it off real easy

[krom8]

I think it would be possible for Hector to put another 7afe in it himself though. I really hate to see that car messed up, it looks so good.