Cooling fans, Has anyone else done this with their FMIC or Heat Exchangers? Options

[Lil-Joe101]

So I came up with this concept having the idea that the fans will be constantly running whoile the vehicle is on. The idea is to create more efficient cooling of the water as it passes thru the heat exchanger and back to the Intercooler radiator. Wether it works or not is still a mystery to me at this point. Has anyone on here done this to their FMICs or heat exchangers and have you notice any significant changes in temperatures. Also what are your thoughts and opinions on this?

[Batman722]

My wife just did this last week on her st205 heatx.

We determined that having the stock hood and bumper with an st205 swap was keeping too much heat in the bay so we thought a little extra cooling for heatx and radiator was in order, actually step one.

[yellowchinaman]

I was thinking the exact same thing for my GT4. Question is if there is enough space? I was going to use an evo core which seems to fill up the entire gap already.
For GT4's with FMIC it's know that its great for track use but once you stop and start driving in traffic, the heat soak has a huge impact in performance.

[playr158]

Fans are a good idea for the heat exchanger while you're sitting still. While moving it will be negligible.
make sure you run water wetter or an equivalent in the intercooling and normal cooling system. Ive personally seen nearly 10* lower temps across the operating range.

[Lil-Joe101]

I have the fans and the intercooler water pump wired to the accessory wire, so they will be constantly running while the vehicle electronics are on. The idea behind this is that the water water pump will start pumping before the car is actually running and the cooling fans will begin the process of cooling the water before ignition, therefore giving you a small window of cold water time before it actually starts heating up during normal operations. Also the cooling fans are counter spin which in turn actually pull air thru the core verses it being pushed through as it would while your driving without them which should give you a slight advantage in cooler temperatures over not having them.

[3WayStunna]

Fans are a good idea for the heat exchanger while you're sitting still. While moving it will be negligible.
make sure you run water wetter or an equivalent in the intercooling and normal cooling system. Ive personally seen nearly 10* lower temps across the operating range.

Did the same, but ran my fans on a switch. Whenever i was at idle after a hard run i would turn them on. With the water wetter though, lagged chargecooler, silicone piping and larger aluminum radiator like lil-joe is using, i really saw no need to use otherwise..Was more like over-kill if anything.

Temp difference was outta control though. Usually after a hard run, my intercooler ran 140 degrees and/or considerably more with the stock setup and water wetter.

After all of the above was done, i noticed a drop down to nearly 70 degrees and higher. Good enough to where after a hard run i could actually touch my intercooler and almost feel no heat from it. Although i measured with one of those temp-guns and touch.... you can take it for what its worth.

This post has been edited by 3WayStunna: Aug 14, 2012 - 9:27 PM

[Lil-Joe101]

Fans are a good idea for the heat exchanger while you're sitting still. While moving it will be negligible.
make sure you run water wetter or an equivalent in the intercooling and normal cooling system. Ive personally seen nearly 10* lower temps across the operating range.

Did the same, but ran my fans on a switch. Whenever i was at idle after a hard run i would turn them on. With the water wetter though, lagged chargecooler, and silicone piping and larger aluminum radiator like lil-joe is using, i really saw no need to use otherwise..Was more like over-kill if anything.

So with the pulling fans, its not offering any kind of advantage?

[delusionz]

no.

if its working properly it should be COLD when you go for a hard drive,

that ****s just gonna block the flow. that fan is only going to help when you're sitting in traffic idling...

do water spray if anything.

2 fans will never match the airflow of an accelerating the vehicle.

[playr158]

fans = useless (not to mention they actually drain from the alternator/battery, which causes negligable power loss) unless you plan on sitting still for long periods of time.

cooling the water prior to ignition is useless...you won't achieve any significant amount in <30seconds.

[Sunny]

Hi,

every cooling fan is a resistance (back-pressure) for the airflow and just a advantage where there is not engough flow (curves, city driving -> stop and go)
once you drive your car on free or highway that problem isn't existing

here is the big advantage of the 3S-GTE water to air system, water with is high specific heat capacity is able to compensate that situations
you should drive a highest as possible amount of water in that system, for a high capacity and a high heat transmission, the use of glycol dramatically
reduces the heat transmission and don't have the high specific heat capacity, note no one ever developed a better fluid for cooling purpose as water

for myself i drive 2/3 water and 1/3 glycol 2% of the water amount millers extra cool (same mix in the engine cooling system) i was able to test it down to -18°C which is enough for my coutrys winter temps, i also decided to go for some 1/5bar radiator caps which gave you a boiling point of ~115°C

this is the cheapest mod you can do to the system, a few other mods are possible but would need to spend money more on this if you are interested

hope it helps

greetz

This post has been edited by Sunny: Aug 16, 2012 - 4:20 PM

[delusionz]

^ good points above.

also dont set the water pump to always on,

circulating water while stationary will just heat soak any cold water remaining especially in the front heat exchanger.

only circulate while moving and starting to move.

[pipes]

I had a intercooler bar spraying nitrous/co2 at the exchanger worked well

[Neon90424]

I bought a digital water temp gauge that measures from negative to 120C so I should be able to tell you guys what the temps look like once I re assemble it, only mod I put was a larger heat exchanger and my C02 is still not operational

[3WayStunna]

EDIT...

This post has been edited by 3WayStunna: Aug 17, 2012 - 8:11 PM