How to install an Alarm/Remote start system into your celica, Example: Viper 5901 Options

[SupraKid]

Well I cannot take all the credit for this, as a member from The12volt.com helped a massive amount with the wiring. I will take pictures over most everything in the next few days. Anyway onto the writeup.

What you will need:
-Whichever make/model of remote start you will be using. I am using a Viper 5901 for the write up.
-A Toyota Celica
-General tools to take apart the interior(screw drivers, 10 and 12mm wrenches, etc)
-Soldering gun and solder
-Various electrical connectors and Rings
-10 Feet of 12 gauge wire(For power from the battery to the brain)
-30 feet of 16 gauge wire(Depends on a few variables, but its better too have to much than too little)
-Lots and lots of zip ties
-Heat shrink tubing and or electrical tape


Where to buy
-For the system itself Sonix Electronics was a massive array of alarm systems at great prices. I have spoken with quite a few people that have purchased from them and they are all satisfied. Or of course you can go on ebay and find one.
-Radio shack will sell you just about everything else needed(Diodes, soldering gun, wire, tape, connectors, etc) But it can all be found at many different places I'm sure.

What to buy
-This pretty much comes down to budget and what the car is for. Personally I think 2 way paging is a MUST, I cant count the number of times I heard an alarm go off, and was able to just look at my remote and make sure it wasn't mine. To me, an alarm isn't about the noise it makes, many thiefs will take the alarm as an "ok I need to hurry up" signal, and not stop. But with 2 way you will KNOW its going off, and will be able to go out and see whats up. Other features like remote start or the interior temp gauge or very usefull, but more just for comfort(It is epic to be able to start your car in the freezing cold from the house and then walk out and its hot.)
Why install an alarm?
-Personally for me it is the peace of mind that gets it. With an expensive radar detector, sound system, and/or general modifications its hard to park your car, well, anywhere and feel 100% safe. I bought the system about 5 months ago, and had it in my supra for about 3. Within those 3 months the alarm only went off once, but it was 2am and my remote went off, vibrating and making noise so I jump up and go to the window, and wtf do I see? Some guys walking out of the parking lot trying to act all casual as if they don't hear or see the car ****ting a brick behind them. May sound a bit stupid, but ever since then I feel safe about my car knowing that it works. To me its sort of like a radar detector, if it works ONCE, it will pay for itself, so in my mind its a no brainer.

The system I'm using, the viper 5901, has just about every feature on the market currently. Such as Remote start, keyless entry, hood open sensor, 4 AUX outputs, and dome light supervision, all of which I will be covering in this writeup.

The Steps

1. Follow This Guide to take out your climate control box.
2. Next youll need to take the center console out, this is done by removing the 2 screws behind the shifter, and unscrewing the 2 12mm bolts in the center console storage area. it should just lift off(make sure to unplug the change holder light!
3. Now the side cover around the shifter and below the dash needs to come out. It is held in by screws on the front and on the 2 sides. It is a bit awkward to get out, but it makes life much much easier if gone when installing the brain.
4. Now the large cover under the steering wheel needs to be removed, it is held on by 4 screws in each corner. Also remove the 2 screws holding the hood pop in. There is also a thicker cover above the screwed on cover that is held on by 4 10mm bolts that needs to come off. Also remove the driver side kick panel, it is simply held on by a plastic nut and is forced in by the plastic door gauge thingy(technical term).
5. Now that you have the interior sufficiently destroyed its time to run some wires from the engine bay!.
6. Jack the front driver side wheel up, and take it off. You'll also need to remove the mud guard, it is held on by various 10mm bolts and screws, its pretty self explanatory. Once that is off you'll need to snake the 12gauge wire from the battery to the cabin(Don't connect yet!). This can be done quite a few ways, I just poked mine through the rubber grommet where the harness goes through near the fuse box on the driver side and fed it until i saw it on the floorboard.Depending on the condition of your grommet you may want to seal this grommet up after your completely done with everything to insure you don't get a water leak
7. The next set of wires that need to be ran are for the siren. My viper came with wires long enough, so I didn't have to extend them, but it may be different for your alarm. I simply bolted my siren up to the OEM horn location on the driver side of the radiator. You can ground the siren out right on the mount, you don't need to run the ground into the cabin, only the power wire. Picture.
8. Now this is where it begins to get different depending on your system. I had to run a wire for the starter signal wire, tach wire and for the hood sensor, but you may not have to, it just depends on your system. But I ran all my wires(zip tied together to the OEM harness in the fender well) together.
9. Now that you have all your wires ran,(but not connected) you can reinstall the mud guard and wheel and lower the car back down so that you can get into the cabin.(Make sure to seal your wire grommet with caulking or something similar if you are afraid of it leaking!!)
10. Now it is time to mount the brain. My car has a premium sound system so I have the Amp sitting back there, which makes it a bit cramped, but still enough room for the brain. I used the provided double sided tape and mounted the brain right behind the amp. But make sure you put it back far enough so the CC unit doeskin hit it when it gets reinstalled!!
11. My viper had 6 separate plugs on it with many many different wires. I chose to connect the Large H3 plug first, as it was the main power and remote start connection. Make sure to solder everything you can! The last thing you want is for one wire to come loose forcing you to pull apart the entire interior to reconnect(ask me how i know). At this point in the how to I'm going to speak directly about wiring what to where. You can run the wires however you like, but I highly recommend you to zip tie wires together that go to the same place to make everything cleaner, and get rid of the risk of one of them grounding out for some reason. Picture.

Your alarm should have come with a wiring diagram, if not just Google your model # and I'm sure you'll be able to find one. Here is the one for my viper 5901:

H1

H1/1- Not Applicable(N/A) Because our cars dont have OEM trunk poppers.
H1/2-To constant 12v power from the battery
H1/3-To the power side of the siren
H1/4-N/A
H1/5-Ground this to any part of the chassis, make sure to sand the chassis and use a ring connector to insure a good ground.(Any bolt will work as long as its the chassis)Picture.
H1/6-N/A
H1/7-N/A
H1/8- Connect to the red/white door trigger wire in the driver side kick panel
H1/9- N/A
H1/10- N/A
H1/11-Connect to Dark Green at dimmer switch
H1/12-N/A
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H2

H2/1-N/A (Our Oem alarms don't have one)
H2/2-??? Aux 4 output <-- Used only as an auxiliary output for running additional accessories. i.e. window roll up modules, lighting, any external thing you could want to run can usually be connected. Driven off a button on remote
H2/3-N/A ( Same as H2/1)
H2/4-???? Aux 3 output <-- Same as above
H2/5-???? Aux 2 output <--Same as above
H2/6-???? Aux 1 output <-- Same as above
H2/7-N/A ( We don't have diesel Celicas)
H2/8-Connect to the green wirei nthe steering wheel harness
H2/9- Connect to grey wire from under diagnosis box (behind the front driver side strut tower on the GT)
H2/10-N/A Our cars are too old for it to be needed.
H2/11-N/A Same as H2/10
H2/12-N/A Same as H2/10
H2/13- If you decide to use the clutch bypass only for remote start (not just shorting the wires together at all times) then you will need this wire to activate the relay. See the additional notes for the relay wiring.
H2/14-N?A Same as H2/10
H2/15- Done
H2/16-????2nd status/rear defogger output <-- No connection is required. If you choose to have the rear defroster come on during the remote start you will have to test the rear defrost switch for whichever wire shows a temporary ground signal when pressing the switch. I never connect it... it is really a waste of time. And by connecting it, the rear defrost will come on every time you remote start it (unless you programmatically cancel it) therefore it will wear down the elements faster.
H2/17-Ebrake??Brake shutdown input <-- Connect to the (+) brake signal from the brake switch. This is also found in the driver kick panel as a green/white wire.
H2/18- Connect this to your parking brake wire.
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H3

H3/1-To black with orange stripe wire on IGN harness
H3/2-12 volt constant
H3/3-Grey wire on IGN harness
H3/4-This needs to be spliced into the Starter signal wire off the starter( the smaller of the 2 wires coming off the starter)
H3/5-Black wire with white stripe in IGN harness
H3/6-12v constant
H3/7-To blue wire with red stripe in IGN harness
H3/8-To same wire as H3/7
H3/9-12v constant
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3 pin door lock connector.

1-???(-)Unlock output <-- Blue wire in driver side kick panel
2-Not used
3-????(-) Lock output <-- Blue wire with black stripe in driver side kick panel
Picture.

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Now once you have all the connections above connected properly and your sure everything is shield and wont ground out, connect the main 12v source to the battery. If the Alarm does not turn on, check your ground H1/5. Test all the features out and make sure everything works to your satisfaction, then put the interior back together going backwards using the uninstall directions and enjoy your new alarm system!


Here is a link to the color codes on a 1994 celica(they should be the same from 1994-1999):
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/2051.html

The link to my full install document:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1usKZBjV...rFCr_Ryk0k/edit


Side notes overall about doing electrical work:
-Learn to solder well on a workbench before you attempt to solder within your car, it gets tricky.
-Always always always Either solder or use wire connectors, don't just twist the wires together and leave them. They may feel strong at the time, but they will become loose over time I assure you.
-Pull your wires very tightly to insure that the connection you made is strong, regardless if you soldered or used connectors.
-Use heat shrink tubing if at all possible, or electrical tape if you must ALWAYS, never leave wires bare.
-Be gentle when dealing with the cars OEM wires, they are brittle and you may break something costly.Strip TOWARDS the junction so the strain goes onto the harness(While installing in my supra I broke the Ignition by pulling the IGN1 wire away from the ignition.

Hope this helps people that are afraid to install alarms systems into their cars. If you have any questions please post or feel free to PM me.

This post has been edited by SupraKid: Jan 19, 2012 - 8:50 PM

[SupraKid]

Everything edited.

This post has been edited by SupraKid: Jan 16, 2012 - 6:34 PM

[SupraKid]

Added a few pictures.

[martinmr2]

hey,

got a question. My 98 gt came with an unknown aftermarket alarm / remote start.
when i remote start it, it shuts of after 20 seconds or so, than restarts it self. It will do it like 3 times, than stays off. I find that on warmer days it sometimes doest do this and stays on.......


Im thinking wiring issue.........is there a way to rest this alarm?


thanks,

Martin

[SupraKid]

Most alarms have a way to change the amount of time the car will run after a remote start. On the viper it is done from the remote, others may be different. I would say you need to find where the brain is and get your make and model and go from there.

[ianglanister]

Hi pal, first off thanks for an amazing write up!! used this alot today installing my Hawk HA280 Pro with remote start. everything is working perfectly with the alarm apart from the remote start. On my alarm relay for the immobiliser i have two green wires that should go to the starter motor cut the wire then join it via them on the relay i havent dont this because i cant see the wires.
What i have done is joined the two green wires and wired them to the starter wire on the ignition. the car attempts to fire but wont its as if the immobiliser is kicking it out (standard one) any idea how i could sort this? Many Thanks