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> Tools to replace wheel bearing, Are these tools necessary for replacing wheel bearing?
post Nov 18, 2012 - 2:40 AM
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dangqiwu

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Are these tools necessary for replacing wheel bearing of 6G Toyota Celica?

hub & dust cap pliers


bearing packer


bearing race punch


bearing race & seal set


This post has been edited by dangqiwu: Nov 18, 2012 - 2:07 PM
post Nov 18, 2012 - 2:01 PM
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azian_advanced



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you'll need the pliers if you intend to keep the dust cap. but the dust cap bends easily and when that happens you're screwed. so you're better ordering a new dust cap than the pliers.

if the bearing packer is to pack grease into the bearing, then it's not needed if you're replacing the bearing. bearings are pre-greased already.

bearing race punch is not needed.

bearing race and seal set is needed and they're used for a hydraulic press.


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post Nov 18, 2012 - 4:39 PM
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czwalga

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Races are kinda needed, I have axle nut sockets that I use to press the bearings out. Then use the old bearing with thick steel on top still to press them in.

Punch, packer, not needed. Just use needle nose pliars to remove the snap ring.


Do you have a press, and have you ever done it before? They can be tricky. You will need a bearing seperator. The inside inner race of the old bearing will be stuck on the hub when you press it out.

This post has been edited by czwalga: Nov 18, 2012 - 4:46 PM


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post Nov 18, 2012 - 6:12 PM
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dangqiwu

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Thank @azian_advanced and @czwalga

I found no need to use hub & dust cap pliers because there is no dust cap at all.
As you said I don't need to buy bearing packer and bearing race punch.
I'll get a bearing race & seal set or a single one of them.

I don't have a press. May I use a hammer instead?
post Nov 18, 2012 - 6:58 PM
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czwalga

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QUOTE (dangqiwu @ Nov 18, 2012 - 6:12 PM) *
Thank @azian_advanced and @czwalga

I found no need to use hub & dust cap pliers because there is no dust cap at all.
As you said I don't need to buy bearing packer and bearing race punch.
I'll get a bearing race & seal set or a single one of them.

I don't have a press. May I use a hammer instead?




No chance in hell you'll be able to do with a hammer. I have a 20 ton press and sometimes it's not even enough to remove the bearing without heat. They usually go in fairly easy with a press though.




--------------------
-93 Rx7, Turbo 6.1L v8, 725rwhp/760rwtq
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-10 F150

Always buying stock wheels... PM me if interested in selling.
post Nov 18, 2012 - 10:56 PM
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dangqiwu

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QUOTE (czwalga @ Nov 18, 2012 - 6:58 PM) *
No chance in hell you'll be able to do with a hammer. I have a 20 ton press and sometimes it's not even enough to remove the bearing without heat. They usually go in fairly easy with a press though.


Sounds terrible. I'll try a press.
post Nov 19, 2012 - 11:21 PM
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dangqiwu

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QUOTE (czwalga @ Nov 18, 2012 - 6:58 PM) *
No chance in hell you'll be able to do with a hammer. I have a 20 ton press and sometimes it's not even enough to remove the bearing without heat. They usually go in fairly easy with a press though.


Is one-ton press good enough? I can't afford a large press.
post Nov 20, 2012 - 1:49 AM
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azian_advanced



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I seriously doubt it. I use my dad's 25-ton press and I can feel a decent amount of resistance in the handle as I pump it to press the bearing in/out. So 1-ton definitely won't cut it. I'd say about 10-15 ton minimum.


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post Nov 20, 2012 - 3:29 AM
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dangqiwu

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QUOTE (azian_advanced @ Nov 20, 2012 - 1:49 AM) *
I seriously doubt it. I use my dad's 25-ton press and I can feel a decent amount of resistance in the handle as I pump it to press the bearing in/out. So 1-ton definitely won't cut it. I'd say about 10-15 ton minimum.


Found this 12 ton press at Harbor Freight. Only $129.99 plus $6.99 shipping.



This post has been edited by dangqiwu: Nov 20, 2012 - 10:12 PM
post Nov 20, 2012 - 7:13 AM
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czwalga

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The 12 ton will probably work. I have the 20ton from harbor freight, but i've used a 12 ton before and it did work for bearings but it was kinda right on the edge.

The harbor freight 6 ton is junk, I have one of those also, dont waste your money.



Just to let you know you're going to need steel plates or something to level everything when you set it in there. The knuckle doesnt just sit in there perfectly and you can press it out. I have a bunch of scrap steel, from 1", 1/2", 1/4", 1/8" steel to stack and level the knuckle.

If you dont do this often, you can just take the knuckles to a small shop. They usually charge $25 a knuckle. Unless you're changing bearings a lot it would probably save you money and a lot of stress.



This post has been edited by czwalga: Nov 20, 2012 - 7:11 AM


--------------------
-93 Rx7, Turbo 6.1L v8, 725rwhp/760rwtq
-95 Celica GT Rally Car - 3sge/AWD
-10 F150

Always buying stock wheels... PM me if interested in selling.
post Nov 20, 2012 - 3:01 PM
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dangqiwu

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QUOTE (czwalga @ Nov 20, 2012 - 7:13 AM) *
The 12 ton will probably work. I have the 20ton from harbor freight, but i've used a 12 ton before and it did work for bearings but it was kinda right on the edge.

The harbor freight 6 ton is junk, I have one of those also, dont waste your money.



Just to let you know you're going to need steel plates or something to level everything when you set it in there. The knuckle doesnt just sit in there perfectly and you can press it out. I have a bunch of scrap steel, from 1", 1/2", 1/4", 1/8" steel to stack and level the knuckle.

If you dont do this often, you can just take the knuckles to a small shop. They usually charge $25 a knuckle. Unless you're changing bearings a lot it would probably save you money and a lot of stress.


Good to know these. Thanks!

Btw, I saw some video on how to replace wheel bearing but they only use a race & seal set with a hammer. I guess Toyota is different.

This post has been edited by dangqiwu: Nov 20, 2012 - 4:42 PM
post Nov 20, 2012 - 8:26 PM
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czwalga

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QUOTE (dangqiwu @ Nov 20, 2012 - 3:01 PM) *
QUOTE (czwalga @ Nov 20, 2012 - 7:13 AM) *
The 12 ton will probably work. I have the 20ton from harbor freight, but i've used a 12 ton before and it did work for bearings but it was kinda right on the edge.

The harbor freight 6 ton is junk, I have one of those also, dont waste your money.



Just to let you know you're going to need steel plates or something to level everything when you set it in there. The knuckle doesnt just sit in there perfectly and you can press it out. I have a bunch of scrap steel, from 1", 1/2", 1/4", 1/8" steel to stack and level the knuckle.

If you dont do this often, you can just take the knuckles to a small shop. They usually charge $25 a knuckle. Unless you're changing bearings a lot it would probably save you money and a lot of stress.


Good to know these. Thanks!

Btw, I saw some video on how to replace wheel bearing but they only use a race & seal set with a hammer. I guess Toyota is different.




Hmm well i've searched and probably saw a similar video. It maay work, but you could run into a bearing that just wont budge with the sledge.



This post has been edited by czwalga: Nov 20, 2012 - 8:37 PM


--------------------
-93 Rx7, Turbo 6.1L v8, 725rwhp/760rwtq
-95 Celica GT Rally Car - 3sge/AWD
-10 F150

Always buying stock wheels... PM me if interested in selling.
post Nov 20, 2012 - 9:45 PM
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njccmd2002



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if its the front bearing, take it to a shop.

the rears, just buy the whole setup and swap.


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post Nov 20, 2012 - 10:10 PM
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dangqiwu

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QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Nov 20, 2012 - 10:45 PM) *
if its the front bearing, take it to a shop.

the rears, just buy the whole setup and swap.


No shop anymore.
The money they charged for labor could buy a dozen of tools.
post Nov 20, 2012 - 10:20 PM
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mkernz22



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It should be only $20 to $30, per side, for a shop to replace the bearings. That's about how much it was when I had to do one.
post Nov 20, 2012 - 11:23 PM
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dangqiwu

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QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Nov 20, 2012 - 11:20 PM) *
It should be only $20 to $30, per side, for a shop to replace the bearings. That's about how much it was when I had to do one.


Show a repair record at a local shop.

12/10/2007
Labor REPLACE BOTH C/V SHAFTS, 60*2(hours)=120
C/V SHAFTS, $83.73*2=167.46

Labor REPLACE BOTH FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS, 60*3.5(hours)=210
WHEEL BEARINGS, $72*2=144

TRANSMISSION FLUID, 2.99*2=5.98
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Sub-Total 647.44
Total(8.75%TAX) 675.21
post Nov 21, 2012 - 1:26 AM
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trdproven



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at the most its just basic tools, and usually its good to have a front end service tool kit. then you can either press it if you have it or bring it in.


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post Nov 22, 2012 - 12:14 AM
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soulshadow



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A hammer will work but you need to know what your doing in order to get the bearing seated properly without wobbling.
post Nov 22, 2012 - 10:33 AM
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fussellbug

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QUOTE
Labor REPLACE BOTH FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS, 60*3.5(hours)=210
WHEEL BEARINGS, $72*2=144


That labor charge includes removing the hubs, pressing out/in the bearing and reassembling the hubs.
If you do the majority of the labor and just walk into the shop holding the hubs and new bearings, the labor charge just to press bearing out/in will be about $20-$30 for each side
post Nov 22, 2012 - 2:08 PM
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jordisonjr



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Please please PLEASE, don't use a hammer.
As stated before, take it to a shop just to press the bearing in and do the rest of the work yourself.

Had a guy from toyota doing my bearings, and they kept wearing out and a couldn't figur eout why, untill I realized he was simply hammering them in instead of using a press.
They will wear out quick, and you'll be throwing moeny at your car all the time.
Do it right so you don't have to do it again.


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