Turbo plans very soon, q and a Options

[NOVAKx17]

Long story short im hooking up with a buddy on the site and making a deal.... no details yet until it's all confirmed, but what are the major issues with boosting and what should be replaced on the car to be safe if im going to be running 8-10 lbs on a stock engine. Let's assume145k miles on it..... why? Because I don't want to swap...

[mkernz22]

with what engine?

[NOVAKx17]

5s
new car, new plans, new everything.
(;

[Syaoran]

If you're going 5S and boosted, then I'd check everything oil related. I had a friend boost his 5S only to find his PCV system clogged up and engine oil everywhere because of it, then stuff started blowing oil through (seals and gaskets) since they were old.

I'd do at least an overhaul gasket set if the bearings and everything else is good.

Use a T3/T4 hybrid if you're trying to save some money, or go for a 16G or GT28RS for a little more. Don't use a CT-series turbo.

You have several manifold options:

1. You could get a stock CT-26 Manifold and buy a cast iron adapter for it, which will convert it into TD05 (16G), T3(T3/T4 hybrid) or T25/28(GT28RS). These kinds of cast-iron adapters also include an optional 38mm wastegate port so you can install an external wastegate to your setup which is 98% of the time better than internal wastegates.

2. You could get an SW20 T3 tubular manifold from eBay. I can vouch for these replicas that they're good and won't crack like most say they will. For peace of mind I'd get a couple of support brackets welded to below the runners and the flange that goes into the head.

3. You could get a cast iron T3 manifold with an external wastegate port. (usually looks black on the eBay listing). I personally don't like the position of the wastegate port on these manifolds; they look like you're going to have overboost problems since they're basically on one of the manifold runners and not at the collector.

If you go for a T3/T4, there's a set on eBay for a really good price that has the tubular stainless steel manifold and a downpipe that utilizes most 5-bolt t3/t4 hybrids' wastegate port as an external wastegate port, which is really clean and is a really good idea. LINK

Once that's chosen, you'll need a good tuning solution as to not blow up your engine like most people will from just richening the mixture up for the added air with a FPR, or from tuning with a SAFC referencing the TPS instead of the MAP sensor. AEM FIC and GReddy Emanage Ultimate will be your best two options if you're wanting to do piggyback ECU tuning. You could go standalone and upgrade several other stuff (like ignition setup) using a Megasquirt-II, Microtech LT-8, Autronic ECU, or something along those lines. I personally use a Megasquirt-II and, unless you're doing a custom ignition setup, I wouldn't use it on the 5S. It's really uncompatible for the most part, since MS likes reading a high-resolution cam signal or a crank trigger, not the ****ty 4 tooth trigger on our distributor (Toyota downgraded from a 24-tooth trigger wheel on the distro pre-93 (REV 1 5SFE head) to a 4-tooth trigger wheel on the internal coil distributor on the REV 2 5S)

You'll need larger injectors and a new fuel pump depending on your power goals (based on your turbo selection). 460cc could be enough, 550cc might be needed... a larger fuel pump will be necessary if going over 250hp for safety issues to avoid stressing the stock low flow pump with larger injectors.

You should fit the largest intercooler that you can fit with a good piping setup, and either a BOV or a BPV.

Upgraded exhaust is a must. A 3" downpipe is best for spool, but you could get away with a full 2.5" system which will be cheaper. Custom is the way to go, cheapest and it'll work just as good as a pretty, polished pipe setup. If it is necessary, get a small, high-flow cat. Otherwise run no cat.

You'll need stickier tires to put the added power to the ground, and along those same lines you'll need a better clutch whether you're looking for a 50hp or a 100hp boost in power. The stock clutch won't last long. Depending on your power goals you could get away with a kevlar disc, or you might need a 6-puck unsprung, or maybe perhaps a hybrid 3S/5S disc/pressure plate/flywheel setup.

You might need engine mounts (front and rear) since the extra torque will wear them out faster. You might want to consider polyurethane mounts or inserts.

Again, most important of all is a good tuning solution. That, above all, is what will determine the longevity of your setup. Also, paying a good tuner to do a good job, and leaving the car with a SAFE (not an aggressive) tune will make your car last for years to come.


This is all I have been able to gather and absorb from months of research. I'm slowly gathering parts for my build but nothing concrete has been done yet.

[Syaoran]

double post

This post has been edited by Syaoran: Dec 3, 2012 - 10:31 AM

[NOVAKx17]

well the kit is 100% taken care of by someone i would trust handling any one of my cars based on their experience.
long story short , i'm not giving up any details on the kit as i want it to be a surprise when it happens, and i'm going to post the build,
piece by piece online with alot of pictures and results.

but in the mean time, until it happens. my main concerns are what to look for as to how to tell what i should check out on the engine until
i finally decide to build.

so far i've decided to change all the gaskets, i suppose i'll check and change bearings if needed just to be safe as i feel the rods/pistons should still be in good condition, and if not i'll find out pretty fast haha.

but all in all, everything should go pretty smoothly.

anyone who has boosted the 5s and made it into a monster of a 5s-fte what problems or issues and snags did you run into?

[Syaoran]

Main issues on the 5S:

Durability issues:
1. Piston rings expand under boost and the ringlands crack. The piston ring to cylinder wall clearance is too small, it needs to be opened up.
2. The rods on the 5S are good, but their bolts are crap. You can use them if you don't rev past 6500RPM, but I'd get at the very least 3SGTE OEM rods and for about ~300$ you can have a reinforced bottom end. The crank is great on the 5S, it's forged steel. The pistons are good if you gap them like you'd gap a turbo engine's piston rings.
3. The oil pump isn't as good as could be, it's always recommended to get a 98+ 5SFE (Camry/Solara) oil pump since the georotor is larger. That means it's a factory High-Volume oil pump. You could shim the pressure relief spring to have the valve open at a higher PSI, good for revving higher.
4. ****ty ECU. That is self explanatory.

Power limitations:

1. Cams, cams cams! This engine has ****ty cams from the factory. Even mild upgrade cams will get you a TON of power and a much better powerband. Unless you're doing 220* @ .050" and 8.2mm lift cams (webcams 294 grind) then it's recommended to upgrade springs and retainers to 2JZ ones, which fit but require slight modification that can be done by your machine shop.

2. Valves, they're OK, but they could use an upgrade. Stock 2JZ valves are +1mm OS valves for the 5S (both in. and exh.)

Standalone EMS territory:

3. Intake manifold, the stock one is OK for the stock engine. For a turbo engine it's too small. The runners are really long, good for down-low torque but not as good for high-end power. A balance has to be achieved with a custom intake manifold. The runners are also really narrow, which is bad, and the plenum is too. I was recommended by a more experienced member of an MR2 forum that a 20% increase in runner diameter and plenum size along with a 20% decrease in runner length would be a perfect match for a 5S turbo.

4. If you upgrade the intake manifold, you'll need to upgrade the TB to a larger one. A 60mm 3rd gen 3S throttle body could be used with the stock ECU since the TPS can be used, I believe.

[NOVAKx17]

thanks for the info.

at first i plan on just switching out the 5s pan for a 3s pan and going from there after the minor tune up of gaskets and bearings if needed. and probably running about 8 psi while i look for a 98+ 5sfe engine for a good price locally and begin a real build for POWER! my short term goals are around 180-210 hp while after completing the build of the new engine i'll be looking for around 300-325 hp with the same turbo set up.

i'm very excited in my first turbo build, i've always driven turbo cars, but i never really done any work to them engine/turbo wise, and i'm finally at the point where i'd like to learn more about it and get some hands on experience and i figure what better car to do it on then one i already know just about everything about

[Syaoran]

Remember that the most important choice is turbocharger selection. For 200whp you could use a very, very small turbo that'll spool instantly, like a T25/T28 size turbo, or a very small t3 hybrid (50/48 eBay hybrid)

For 300HP you don't need to go balls to the wall kind of build. 300HP is easily achievable on stock block and head with the proper tuning.

If you're looking for balls to the wall performance you're looking at 5S-GTE with a GT35 kind of build, and on a FWD it's pointless to go above 300HP unless you're using slicks and reinforced axles, mounts etc.

[NOVAKx17]

definitely. i have the perfect turbo in mind for my power goals....
and i know i don't have to go crazy with the build, but i want to make it done and done right the first time i do it so its just going to hold up for a long time.
i'm just planning on a moderately built 5s-FTE.

i'm just trying to do as much reading up on my favorite 5sftes over the years getting info on what i'm going to be looking at... the ones i review include but are not limited to: Severx13s, pressure2s, supershannons, and Smaays.

definitely some great builds!