Coolant System Problem Options

[Galcobar]

I had to change my radiator due to it cracking(was told it was age related). After the change I had NO heat. It took me a week to get cabin heat back. The heater core is in a location that is higher than any other part of the cooling system. It gets one mother of an air lock. It took me a week to get the air out of the heater core. Now it gives off heat better than ever.

It's due to the heater core or at least the pipes which run to it that people suggest doing the fill/bleed procedure with the front end elevated -- anything which encourages the trapped air to follow the lines out can speed up the removal of air from the cooling system.

Gumdrops, your description of the problem is reasonably clear, but you're not giving us the sort of useful information when it comes to what you have actually done to diagnose or correct the problem which would allow us to help you with specifics.

You haven't stated whether or not you properly filled (through the cap) the cooling system, then bled the air out (running the system with the heat on full, the cap off until the coolant level stays steady); whether you have to top up the level of coolant in the reservoir; whether you flushed the system prior to filling; test results of the radiator; colour/consistency of the coolant; test results for the radiator cap; etc.

All of the above have been suggested to you over the course of this thread, and can be done in one session.

[cyb593]

NEW BUMP!! I know this thread is old but i had the same issues. I elevated the car and left the radiator cap off and put the heat on full blast. It is getting hotter definetly. However i did it and the coolant in the radiator never stopped rising, it started to overflow so i used a towel and absorbed what was over flowing but it never stopped? What does this mean? Should i keep it going till it no longer rises or is that normal? Any help would be great!!

[80gumdrops]

Nailed it. It was an air lock somewhere by the heater core.

Parked car on incline, turned heat on full and removed radiator cap.
Gave the pipes a bit of a squeeze and then topped the radiator up to the brim with Toyota coolant.
Gave pipes a few more small squeezes which shifted a few bubbles.
Got in car and waited for thermostat to open.
At first the engine temp was rising again for about 6 seconds and then I heard it.. loads of air shifted through the heater core (finally).
Engine temp dropped immediately and I had heat back in the car at the same time.
I then switched the engine off and repeated the process to account for the air displaced by the burp.

Thanks dudes!

[mickeyc]

I had to change my radiator due to it cracking(was told it was age related). After the change I had NO heat. It took me a week to get cabin heat back. The heater core is in a location that is higher than any other part of the cooling system. It gets one mother of an air lock. It took me a week to get the air out of the heater core. Now it gives off heat better than ever.

I have just changed my rad....& having the same problem with the heater......Did this work it's self out or do I have to "burp it"???

[Bitter]

Put the front end of the car up and let it idle with the radiator cap off for a while till both radiator hoses are hot, if it doesn't burp the air from the heater naturally that way then rev the engine to about 2000 - 4000 rpm pulsing up and down till you get heat then let it idle. I highly suggest using one of the radiator funnels so you don't puke coolant everywhere. It might work with the nose up and cap on too but I'm not totally sure.

[trdproven]

all you gotta do is elevate the front end to make the radiator opening on the highest point, put coolant, turn on the car, set the heater, use a funnel to allow the air to bubble out, rev a bit here and there to test if there are more bubbles.

by not using a funnel it just gets sloppy and you can't bring out the air better, because it just spills out the top.