gen3 3sgte vsv picture please (or pinout) Options

[match220]

Can some either take a picture of their vsv pinout (what color the wires are on each pin), or post a pinout of it? I'm thinking it doesn't matter which wire does on which side because it might open or close either way, but I would rather be sure. On the gen3, I believe it's mounted on the right of the TB if you are looking at it from the front of the car.

Also, there is a threaded hole in my manifold large enough to stick my thumb into. It is also on the right of the TB and a little down. What is this for? EGR? I'm not running EGR since I have an aftermarket computer, so I just want to plug it. I'll post a pic of the hole later on if someone needs to see it.

[match220]

what goes in this threaded hole? (middle of the picture) The first picture is zoomed out, the second picture is zoomed in. The threaded hole is in the middle of the manifold. I found a plug for it that threads in, but I would like to know what went there.

[delusionz]

holds wiring harness


sorry

that hole is the air temperature sensor

This post has been edited by delusionz: Jan 31, 2013 - 11:09 PM

[match220]

holds wiring harness

that can't be. The hole is 3/4 dia.. I think it took a 19mm plug. I'll have to look at the plug size, I forget. The ones that hold the wire harness are small 10mm head bolts and don't thread into the inside of the manifold.

[delusionz]

its a BSPT thread , not an NPT, theres a difference of about 1 thread per inch so if you put an NPT then use a bit of thread tape

[match220]

its a BSPT thread , not an NPT, theres a difference of about 1 thread per inch so if you put an NPT then use a bit of thread tape

I bought a ton of plugs to see which one more closely fit. It looked like it could be a 5/16 NPT (couldn't find), I have a 3/8 NPT plug that wouldn't fit and I didn't even buy the 1/4 NPT since it was noticeably too small. And the one that fit threads in about 4 full turns by hand before it starts getting snug, and it's straight thread, not tapered at all. I'll get it a little tighter and use thread locker on it, I'm done trying to find the right plug for it.

[delusionz]

why dont u have the IAT sensor there?

[match220]

why dont u have the IAT sensor there?

The Autronic has its own IAT, and I have it near the air filter.

[match220]

Maybe I'll move it to the manifold later. I don't like the places where I can put it in the manifold though. Supposedly it's a good idea to mount it in the intake tubing away from heat but close to the engine. That way it won't get heat soaked but it is close to the manifold. But I would have to have someone weld a bung in the piping.

[delusionz]

hmm, so you have neither stock sensors,

in the stock harness, what i see with the power fc is the manifold iat is the one it makes fueling and ignition changes based on. the air cleaner iat isn't used in any calculations, but the before and after comparison gives you an idea of how efficient your intercooler is running,

these are in celcius, 30C=86F, 40C=104F, 50C=122F
before/after is top and bottom, avg and max is left and right


This post has been edited by delusionz: Feb 1, 2013 - 1:01 AM

[match220]

nope..only stock sensors I have are the IACV and the stock distributor pickup. MAP and IAT are Autronic, water temp is Autronic's Bosch authorized sensor, o2 is AEM wideband w/ gauge (signal wire output from gauge to Autronic). Temp sending unit is stock, vsv is stock, fan switch on radiator is stock. No need for knock or the second o2 sensor.

the only thing I don't like about the intake manifold mount is the heat generated after running for an hour. Which is why I would rather have a bung welded on the intake piping. I'm expecting my air filter location to stay pretty steady since I built a little enclosure for the filter. So air filter location is cooler than the air going in, and manifold location will end up being hotter after the engine has been running and the engine heat transfers to the mani. The intake piping is thin, so it cools fast as the charged air after the I/C flows through it, meaning not as much heat. As long as it isn't right above the engine. I have a FMIC by the way.

This post has been edited by match220: Feb 1, 2013 - 1:48 AM

[match220]

I do like the before and after comparison though. Even though I'll mount it by the piping later on, I'll still like to have the air filter and intake comparison. It's easy enough for me to mount it on the mani, I can always do that later on as an experiment.

[pitcelica]

You want the IAT/MAT sensor mounted as close to the intake valve as possible, but you do not want it to be heat soaked when idling. There is a compromise to be done. I suppose that Toyota was using the Air Intake Temp sensor (located in the air cleaner) when heat soaked conditions were met and when the MAT sensor wasn't giving the real temp value. Using two sensors was a way to go around this problem. Unfortunately, a lot (if not all) of standalone ECU can't calculate fuel needs using two different IAT/MAT sensors.

Also, because compressing air cause a raise in intake temp, you want the intake air temp sensor mounted somewhere between the outlet of the intercooler and the intake valve. You said you have mounted it in the air intake cleaner which isn't really a good idea because you do not have any way to know the real temp of the air entering the engine.

[match220]

You want the IAT/MAT sensor mounted as close to the intake valve as possible, but you do not want it to be heat soaked when idling. There is a compromise to be done. I suppose that Toyota was using the Air Intake Temp sensor (located in the air cleaner) when heat soaked conditions were met and when the MAT sensor wasn't giving the real temp value. Using two sensors was a way to go around this problem. Unfortunately, a lot (if not all) of standalone ECU can't calculate fuel needs using two different IAT/MAT sensors.

Also, because compressing air cause a raise in intake temp, you want the intake air temp sensor mounted somewhere between the outlet of the intercooler and the intake valve. You said you have mounted it in the air intake cleaner which isn't really a good idea because you do not have any way to know the real temp of the air entering the engine.

my intake tubing where I'm going to mount it later is almost right beside my air filter. The way I see it it's bad either way being on the intake mani (heat soaked) or in the air filter (pre charge). My main thing is getting it running right now so I can move it from where it is and keep it at my house, there are still a ton of little things to be done to it. I'll have a bung welded to my piping eventually as I mentioned above, the spot I've picked is far enough away from the engine to stay cool, and conveniently right beside the air filter where it is now.

[delusionz]

I've heard a bit over the years about the Fast reacting IAT sensor upgrade for the RX7, the same part also does the same upgrade to the ST205

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mazda-RX7-Racing...=item3a6948244d


anyhow if this is the case, this sensor is listed size M10 x 1.25, which could be your hole there



Ahhh nope. the st205 version comes with an adaptor thread. so its bigger than m10

This post has been edited by delusionz: Feb 3, 2013 - 9:18 PM