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> Cold engine likes to die
post Apr 2, 2013 - 12:56 PM
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PaddyTapps

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Im having some difficulty figuring out what the idle speed valve and IAC are and where they are located. I searched the repair manuals on here but came up with nothing. I need to go get a Haynes repair manual or something similar I just haven't gotten around to it. Can anyone shed some light on the subject? Some updated info on symptoms: after the spark plugs and wires change as well as oil and filter change, the car starts up just fine but after I drive for a while and the engine warms up, when I push the clutch in to come to a stop the rpms fall way way low and the engine starts sputtering and sometimes dies. Not all the time though, I can usually save it with a blip on the throttle but stop and go traffic is like a dance between the gas, brake and clutch pedals! talk about a pita...
post Apr 2, 2013 - 1:03 PM
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rave2n

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Time for new spark gaskets!
post Apr 2, 2013 - 1:10 PM
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PaddyTapps

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QUOTE (rave2n @ Apr 2, 2013 - 1:03 PM) *
Time for new spark gaskets!

I've never even heard of those o.O
post Apr 2, 2013 - 1:23 PM
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rave2n

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QUOTE (PaddyTapps @ Apr 2, 2013 - 1:10 PM) *
QUOTE (rave2n @ Apr 2, 2013 - 1:03 PM) *
Time for new spark gaskets!

I've never even heard of those o.O



I probally should have checked to see if that engine even has the gaskets, which are pretty much pretty O-rings. Only reason I stated that is because I recently had to change some on another vehicle that was leaking oil into the spark tubes. Which those were on the top of the valve cover, not the bottom, which yours looks like its leaking somewhere at the bottom of the spark tube itself.
post Apr 2, 2013 - 1:27 PM
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PaddyTapps

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QUOTE (rave2n @ Apr 2, 2013 - 1:23 PM) *
QUOTE (PaddyTapps @ Apr 2, 2013 - 1:10 PM) *
QUOTE (rave2n @ Apr 2, 2013 - 1:03 PM) *
Time for new spark gaskets!

I've never even heard of those o.O



I probally should have checked to see if that engine even has the gaskets, which are pretty much pretty O-rings. Only reason I stated that is because I recently had to change some on another vehicle that was leaking oil into the spark tubes. Which those were on the top of the valve cover, not the bottom, which yours looks like its leaking somewhere at the bottom of the spark tube itself.

yeah when i changed the plugs and wires, the wire tubes were dry, just the plugs looked like crap. I got pics on the fist page of the thread just incase you didn't see them. #2 was the plug the wasn't detonating completely.
post Apr 3, 2013 - 5:53 PM
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mindkiller



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The idle control valve and IAC (IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE) is the same thing, it is attached to the bottom of the throttle body u have remove the throttle body to get to it.
post Apr 3, 2013 - 6:04 PM
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PaddyTapps

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Looks like my Saturday's going to be booked haha! I've never taken a throttle body off before, hope i don't **** it up worse biggrin.gif
post Apr 4, 2013 - 9:07 AM
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PaddyTapps

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Update: yesterday evening I checked my dist cap and rotor and found that they need replacing. Badly. The rotor contact it so pitted it looks like 40 grit sand paper. I'll be picking up the parts to replace tomorrow, then spending saturday installing them, as well as pulling off the throttle body and cleaning it and the IACV. I'll be taking some before and after pics cuz that area is freakin dirty (no plastic splash guard underneath the car). But now that I just took the cap off and pulled the rotor out then just put them back in, (hope I'm not speaking too soon...) the car is running like a champ! Didn't stall or die on the way to work this morning, idled normally in the 600-900 range depending on engine temp. And since i doubt it has ever been done, instead of crimping or plugging the coolant lines to the IACV, I'm going to drain and flush the coolant system too and put fresh stuff in. Has anybody here cleaned the IACV on their 7A before? I searched but only found stuff for the 5S. Also thanks for the info mindkiller.
post Apr 4, 2013 - 10:57 AM
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DEATH



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FYI - OEM is the only way to go on that cap and rotor. The ones from parts houses are crap. Also the OEM ones dont cost much if any more [They're actually cheaper for me but I get a 30% discount from dealer]


--------------------

ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI]
PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYO
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INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper Sports
EXT: WRC/TRD/404
QUOTE (lagos @ Aug 25, 2010 - 10:13 AM) *
Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them.
Slow down Paul Walker.

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post Apr 4, 2013 - 11:15 AM
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PaddyTapps

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I have to pick up the IACV gasket from the dealership, so I'll get the cap and rotor there too. thanks for the info!

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