My Celica, with BEAMS Options

[Box]

The BEAMS is in. And Runs. (Started on the first try!!!).
Pictures forthcoming. Thanks to everyone's help, and most especially richee!

Congrats, you now have a proper car.

[aspen]

And got a 2.5" exhaust welded up. Still a few issues, namely high idle and occasionally acting a bit strange while accelerating - both which I hope will go away once I get the remainder of the stock airbox in and fully bleed the cooling system.

[ricochet1490]

Mine has high idle as well. Average between 1200 and 1400 rpm

[BonzaiCelica]

Mine has high idle as well. Average between 1200 and 1400 rpm

high idle all the time even when it warms up?

[ricochet1490]

Mine has high idle as well. Average between 1200 and 1400 rpm

high idle all the time even when it warms up?

Its relentless. It thinks about low idle if you kick it into neutral at speed but it jumps back up and down for a second, eventually settling out high. IACV theory

[aspen]

I cleaned my ICSV. I hope I don't have to replace it, but at least with my exhaust it's nice and quiet at 2k now.

[aspen]

Well, new airbox, sort of bled the coolant (I had some issues, see further down), inspected the coils (they look good), but I've still got a high idle. When I unplug my ISCV it idles the same and can't compensate for adding in A/C and such. So, we'll see.

Also, as far as the coolant, not sure if this should be worrying me or not. Seemed like it'd be plausible for there to be that much assorted air in the system with the engine swap and several impromptu hose swaps. Also, it was 100 degrees today so it started out pretty hot to begin with.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUcI1fixPd4

This post has been edited by aspen: Jun 27, 2013 - 9:25 PM

[richee3]

A BEAMS is supposed to idle at 750, and the ISCV should be correcting your idle. I've never unplugged my ISCV with the car running so I couldn't telling you what happens there. How does your TPS look? I assume you cleaned the throttle body when you had the engine apart, so you shouldn't be having any issues with the butterfly valve staying open. It could very well be that your ISCV simply isn't working, but one guy on the BEAMS Owners Group recently got a code for his ISCV so presumably you'd have a code if yours was defunct. I'm working 11-7 tonight and I doubt if I'll be busy so I'll put some thought and research into this for you.

[aspen]

I realized going through the cleaning again that I never removed the motor so I'll do that in the morning and make sure it actually moves.

My TPS could be a culprit, maybe... I did have to junk yard a new one and wound up getting one off of a Tercel (which according to ToyoDIY is the same).

I'll report back once I get the ISCV off again(sigh, I can now remove the throttle body in like 3 minutes) and the motor part taken off.

[richee3]

Now you're onto something. The motors get horribly gunked up in those ISCV's. Regrettably they can't be cleaned without actually taking everything completely apart. I tried just spraying some cleaner through the throttle body on mine but had to actually take it off. I despise those screws that Toyota used to attach the ISCV to the throttle body... They're those lame Jap spec super soft metal screw that strip out if you look at them wrong.

I'm sure your TPS is fine. I picked up a brand new one from Toyota for mine. They aren't adjustable on the BEAMS but when I checked my new one with a multimeter, I found that there's just enough play in it to send the wrong signal to the ECU. Whether it would make a difference or not I don't know, but I did have to twist mine as far as I could before tightening the screws.

This post has been edited by richee3: Jun 27, 2013 - 9:51 PM

[Box]

*PRO TIP*
Use an angled screwdriver on the brass screws on the IACV/ISCV.

[aspen]

Heh, I already cut those off (or turned them into flatheads) and replaced with hex nuts. I'll probably be doing the same for the motor.

[Box]

Way to be a typical male.

You can hook the ISCV directly to your car battery to spin the motor fully open/close. Helps in the cleaning/lubing process.

[aspen]

I didn't have my impact driver handy!

[Batman722]

Heh, I already cut those off (or turned them into flatheads) and replaced with hex nuts. I'll probably be doing the same for the motor.

That's what I did also.
When I put a Beams into my Rav4 the IAC was bad. We tried cleaning but no good. We got one from a 05 Echo IIRC that was a perfect match.

[aspen]

I'll keep that in mind. Cleaned it again though (and removed the motor to clean that portion) and the idle is greatly improved. Now down to 900-1000, or at least near the realm that my gauge could be off (I'll double check with OBD2). So, this is good.

Had one quick instance where I revved it this morning and it acted like it misfired and sort of skipped a beat and briefly flashed the CEL. No stored code though. Not sure if it could be bad gas or what. My coils looked fine yesterday.

[richee3]

At least the idle is improved! I doubt if you have bad gas, or your 5S would've been having problems too. When I first fired up my BEAMS, I had a snipped COP wire going to my #3 cylinder. It never threw a CEL despite the fact that I had one cylinder that wasn't firing at all. It's weird that you're getting a CEL without having a stored code... Is it stumbling pretty hard or does it act more like it's barely missing? I can't imagine the coolant temp sensor could cause it to misfire, so we'll rule that out. Same goes for the TPS, it will affect the engine some but won't cause any major issues. Crank and cam position sensors are working great or else you couldn't even get the motor started. For it to stumble or misfire, I'd say the biggest factors would be the MAF or the COP's. Could have possibly skipped a tooth on the timing belt but again, not likely or you'd have more problems than a random misfire. VVTi solenoid won't cause a misfire either, just sluggishness.

[aspen]

Running wise, it seems to have improved. I drove ~100 miles today with no running issues except...

Cooling. The temp sensor is really jumpy, and it doesn't seem as though the system is getting pressurized. So I'll check that. It seems to do fine temperature wise, and then jump around every so often. Leads me to think maybe radiator or something - which I should probably replace anyway since mine is pretty old and non-OEM.

[onnaj]

Maybe air in the system? Jack the car up in the front or park it with the nose up, remove the radiator cap and let it idle a while. Don't do it with a warm engine though, but i don't think i have to tell you that

Probable you've already tried the above, but sometimes people just forget about it