coolant and thermostat question, re-updated with a twist Options

[HaysoosKreesto]

Hey everyone, it's been a long time since my last post. Car still runs beautifully but my first ever problem arose that perhaps a friendly user might help me solve, or know of the page that solves it.

So my coolant has been boiling out of the reservoir after driving on the freeway and coming to a stop. I tried changing the thermostat, maybe the thermostat is defective? Well assuming it's not (I do plan on going back to the dealership and asking for a new one in exchange however) perhaps it may be something else. Does anyone know where the sensor to monitor the temperature of the coolant before the radiator fan kicks in is?

I'm having trouble searching for it, but I figured that if I change the sensor and the thermostat (again) then maybe my problems would be solved.

Also if anyone has any idea as to why it continues to do this, with all appreciation I urge you to please respond.

Thank you and much love,
Rafael.

Edit: check last picture to see the new situation

This post has been edited by HaysoosKreesto: Aug 16, 2013 - 10:16 AM

[Box]

If it's like the 7A it'll be on the driver side middle of the engine. It's in the general area of where the coolant hoses that run to the throttle body are. Though if it were bad I'd think it'd throw a code. It could perhaps be a blockage in the cooling system somewhere.

[ILoveMySilly97]

If it's like the 7A it'll be on the driver side middle of the engine. It's in the general area of where the coolant hoses that run to the throttle body are. Though if it were bad I'd think it'd throw a code. It could perhaps be a blockage in the cooling system somewhere.

+1, For the 5sfe. We have the coolant temperature sensor, engine coolant temperature sensor, and the fan switch. The fan switch is screwed under the radiator on the passenger side right next the drain plug. Easiest way to find this one is to follow the bottom radiator hose from the engine to the radiator. The other two are located right next to each other. Follow the upper radiator hose and right when it hits the engine. You'll see two sensors. The bigger one which is on the passenger side will be the engine coolant temperature sensor and the smaller one which is on the driver side would be the coolant temperature sensor.

BTW, it seems like you're having overpressure so what I would do is perform coolant flush. Flush out the radiator and the engine block. Also check your radiator cap make sure it's at the OEM specs. I think the 5sfe was 13psi? All I know is it's 0.9 on the cap not the 1.1 like on the high performance caps.

This post has been edited by ILoveMySilly97: Aug 2, 2013 - 4:40 AM

[nics]

internal leak, my .02

[Toyo6g]

I had the same problem.... Blown head gasket!!! 8(

[Box]

It could be a variety of things. First thing I'd do is check compression to make sure it's not the head gasket. Then take it from there by flushing the system. Easiest way to test the relay for the fans is to turn the car on and let it hit operating temperature. Then just wait a few more minutes and they should cut on, provided it's decently warm outside. Being you're in California that shouldn't be a problem at the moment.

[Galcobar]

All of the sensors and fan switches can be tested with a multimeter and a pot of water. Functionally, only the engine coolant temperature sensor and the temperature fan switch matter, but my first question is whether you've checked the radiator cap.

If the cap is faulty it will not maintain the pressure in the coolant system which keeps the coolant from boiling at operating temperatures, and will allow the coolant to spill into the reservoir.

[HaysoosKreesto]

If it's like the 7A it'll be on the driver side middle of the engine. It's in the general area of where the coolant hoses that run to the throttle body are. Though if it were bad I'd think it'd throw a code. It could perhaps be a blockage in the cooling system somewhere.

Thank you Box, I don't have a code meter so I guess I'll have to go and pick one up (it will come in handy later in life I'm sure :-) I'll later see how I can flush my system, I have to work and I've been stupid busy lately.

If it's like the 7A it'll be on the driver side middle of the engine. It's in the general area of where the coolant hoses that run to the throttle body are. Though if it were bad I'd think it'd throw a code. It could perhaps be a blockage in the cooling system somewhere.

+1, For the 5sfe. We have the coolant temperature sensor, engine coolant temperature sensor, and the fan switch. The fan switch is screwed under the radiator on the passenger side right next the drain plug. Easiest way to find this one is to follow the bottom radiator hose from the engine to the radiator. The other two are located right next to each other. Follow the upper radiator hose and right when it hits the engine. You'll see two sensors. The bigger one which is on the passenger side will be the engine coolant temperature sensor and the smaller one which is on the driver side would be the coolant temperature sensor.

BTW, it seems like you're having overpressure so what I would do is perform coolant flush. Flush out the radiator and the engine block. Also check your radiator cap make sure it's at the OEM specs. I think the 5sfe was 13psi? All I know is it's 0.9 on the cap not the 1.1 like on the high performance caps.

Thank you ILoveMySilly97, going with Galcobar's suggestion I will use my multimeter to check to see if any of these lil bastards are running or if one gave out. I noticed today after changing my thermostat that the fans would not kick on at all, so I'm hoping that the fan switch might have just taken enough and I'll need to replace it.

Hopefully! that will be the last of my fans not doing their job, but I will be sure to check everything.

I believe the radiator cap is OEM, I never changed it. I just checked and it said .9 on it, which I hope means it is correct.

internal leak, my .02

I will be performing a flush because you are the second person to suggest so, thank you for your input! Hopefully it is something as beautifully simply as that.

I had the same problem.... Blown head gasket!!! 8(

I'm sorry to hear that brother. I sincerely hope my case isn't the same, but if it is then I'll just have to do what I have to do.

It could be a variety of things. First thing I'd do is check compression to make sure it's not the head gasket. Then take it from there by flushing the system. Easiest way to test the relay for the fans is to turn the car on and let it hit operating temperature. Then just wait a few more minutes and they should cut on, provided it's decently warm outside. Being you're in California that shouldn't be a problem at the moment.

That's the thing is that, I drove it around the block twice today, after changing out the thermostat and adding a bunch of coolant/water, and the fans never kicked on :-(

and ya it was quite warm today, I think I burned my neck trying to change that thermostat lol. Is there an article somewhere that shows how to check compression for the head gasket, or do I have to take it to a repair shop?

All of the sensors and fan switches can be tested with a multimeter and a pot of water. Functionally, only the engine coolant temperature sensor and the temperature fan switch matter, but my first question is whether you've checked the radiator cap.

If the cap is faulty it will not maintain the pressure in the coolant system which keeps the coolant from boiling at operating temperatures, and will allow the coolant to spill into the reservoir.

The radiator cap is the same one it had when I bought her, so I don't know for sure how to tell if its gone faulty or not? It seemed like it did not have any cracks earlier when I checked. I'll be checking the sensor and switch later and hopefully I'll have good news.

[HaysoosKreesto]

Thank you all for helping a poor fool like I, much love and it is appreciated.

First thing is to check compression (after I find out how to do such a task)
Second is to check the sensor and switch mentioned
Third is to flush out my radiator
Fourth is to change out the fans if it needs it
Fifth is to change the head gasket (which I really hope it doesn't come down to)

Once again thank you all so much.

[ILoveMySilly97]

It could be a variety of things. First thing I'd do is check compression to make sure it's not the head gasket. Then take it from there by flushing the system. Easiest way to test the relay for the fans is to turn the car on and let it hit operating temperature. Then just wait a few more minutes and they should cut on, provided it's decently warm outside. Being you're in California that shouldn't be a problem at the moment.

That's the thing is that, I drove it around the block twice today, after changing out the thermostat and adding a bunch of coolant/water, and the fans never kicked on :-(

and ya it was quite warm today, I think I burned my neck trying to change that thermostat lol. Is there an article somewhere that shows how to check compression for the head gasket, or do I have to take it to a repair shop?

My 5sfe fans doesn't kick in until like 30 min. Some reason this engine likes to heat up a lot before fans turning on.

[perkyshadow]

I had the same issue in my old 5s. When I changed the water pump and belt, I also drained the system. I also replaced the old shoddy radiator cap with a new one. I drove the car for six more months in some intense heat without another issue. The easiest thing I'd check would be the radiator cap. Then flush the system. Mine seriously overflowed every summer day for three years before I worked on it!

[Box]

Autozone should have a compression checker in their loan a tool program. You pay the cost to replace it upfront and they print out a receipt. Bring the tool and receipt back and you receive you money. Most compression checkers are a psi gauge with a hose with a metal end piece that screws into the spark plug holes. Pull your EFI fuse and crank it over a few times to get the pressure reading. Do that for every cylinder and if they read out ok the head-gasket is ok. Which is good since it means it'll be something much easier and cheaper causing the problem.

[HaysoosKreesto]

Well on further inspection after work today I THINK I may have found the culprit to my misfortunes...



Seems like all I need to do is burp my coolant system and all should be fine. I bought a no spill funnel from o'riely (formally kragen) today so it should be here tomorrow and after that HOPEFULLY all should be as it was.

So just a future tip for any 6gc users, after you replace your thermostat you must burp your cooling system (I did not know this until today), and always check your radiator cap to see if it resembles this one on the left lol.

[Box]

Well, there's your problem. Glad it was an easy fix.

[HaysoosKreesto]

Well, there's your problem. Glad it was an easy fix.

I know hahaha, you have no idea how much I've been stressing because I couldn't understand what the problem was, then I picked up a new rad cap and was like "............."

Thank you for your time and thought it was appreciated

[HaysoosKreesto]

This giant crack appeared on the radiator today, looks like I'm shopping for radiators today lol.

I found this one on Amazon (I don't really want to wait for shipping, but it appears to be the cheapest and a review says it will fit with our 6gc's)

http://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-CU15..._sim_sbs_auto_1

Or I could spend another $50 and get it at a local o'reilly and have it by tomorrow

[Box]

Same thing happened to me, I coated it in epoxy and haven been good for a year now. Just make sure it's for the GT, as there was a different one for the ST. If it were me I'd go with a Koyo radiator, I don't think they really cost anymore and I've actually heard of them.

[Syaoran]

I'd go with a full aluminum radiator. Tt has no plastic end tanks that go brittle and crack. If it ever did crack which I doubt, you could weld it for a proper fix instead of having to replace it.

[ILoveMySilly97]

I'd go with a full aluminum radiator. Tt has no plastic end tanks that go brittle and crack. If it ever did crack which I doubt, you could weld it for a proper fix instead of having to replace it.

+1, wished I bought a full aluminum radiator. Megan racing makes one for our cars.

[Box]

You can weld plastic too technically. The only problem with aluminum radiators is that they're all cheap junk until you spend $300 for a Mishimoto or KoyoRad. Just get another OEM replacement for $100 if you don't want to repair it. The original plastic one lasted for almost 20 years, the next one will outlive the car.