Fribox's 1996 Celica GT, A used car that likes to suck money out of my pockets Options

[fribox]

5s-fe, 5 speed, 221000 miles. Second owner. (Now nearing 225000)
It looks shiny in this picture, but it has a lot of problems.




Engine refuses to rev past 4500-5000 RPM (not that I do this often), if anyone has a solution to this I'd be very grateful. I've read a bit on here its either the catalytic converter being clogged or timing is off.

This thread isn't really much of a project thread, more of a maintenance diary. I don't plan anything spectacular with this car, but I'd like to share my woes and experience with you guys.
Maybe I'll come across something and find out what is wrong and help someone who has the same problem, who knows.
I was first planning a 3S-GE swap, but figure its not worth the hassle on a car with 225000+ miles on it. I've seen good things about 294 grind cams though, which is what I might do for the little more umf at the high end that I want.
But I'll post whatever happens to my car here.

This post has been edited by fribox: Mar 18, 2014 - 10:38 PM

[richee3]

The 5S is known for valve cover gaskets leaking. It's a cheap and relatively easy fix. Not that I'm saying that's where yours is leaking, just a decent starting point. The engine not wanting to rev could be the timing belt slipping a tooth, or it could be the distributor. At 221,000 miles I would be checking the timing belt anyway. I highly doubt that your catalytic converter would cause any revving issues, more likely just a lack of power. Don't worry, you aren't missing much over 5,000 rpm. The 5S is out of power at that point anyway. If you are being truthful when you say you seldom rev over 4,500-5,000 rpm then the BEAMS isn't the swap for you, as that's where it really comes to life. The headlights can be removed by taking the bumper off, which isn't difficult to do.

[fribox]

The 5S is known for valve cover gaskets leaking. It's a cheap and relatively easy fix. Not that I'm saying that's where yours is leaking, just a decent starting point. The engine not wanting to rev could be the timing belt slipping a tooth, or it could be the distributor. At 221,000 miles I would be checking the timing belt anyway. I highly doubt that your catalytic converter would cause any revving issues, more likely just a lack of power. Don't worry, you aren't missing much over 5,000 rpm. The 5S is out of power at that point anyway. If you are being truthful when you say you seldom rev over 4,500-5,000 rpm then the BEAMS isn't the swap for you, as that's where it really comes to life. The headlights can be removed by taking the bumper off, which isn't difficult to do.

If this is correct (and I hope it is) I don't think the belt should be slipping unless it was done improperly; I don't really know how timing works but I've read that if its off a degree(?) it could limit revs like that. I'll give the valve cover gasket a look. It doesn't seem to be coming from anywhere I can see, but the oil pan is coated in a very thin layer of oil and that is where it drips from so I was assuming that, but I'll definitely look around a little more. I guess if I could go over 5k I might sometime at the strip or something for fun, but I don't feel the need city driving and can't currently. I'm still sort of used to my old car too (a 2.5L jeep that didn't like revved past 3000rpm) and I'm sort of afraid to push this car with the high miles on the engine. I'm more of worried that whatever is hurting my top rpm could be hurting my gas mileage at lower rpm.

It could definitely be the distributor now that you mention it. While driving (usually over 35) the car has a little misfire(?) every now and again like someone tapped the breaks really fast, or like the engine just stopped running for the blink of an eye (but the engine doesn't actually stop). Its hard to explain I guess, and me not knowing much about cars doesn't help either. The plugs/wires were just replaced as well, if that helps. It was worse before that as all the plugs were basically toasted.

I'll give taking the headlight out a shot this weekend, thanks for the help.

[richee3]

On the plus side, you have a new timing belt! That's a HUGE plus. However, that makes the timing that much more suspect. It wouldn't be hard to pull the upper timing cover off and have a look at the pulleys just to make sure that everything is lined up. 221k on a 5S-FE isn't bad at all. There are plenty of 5S's around this forum that have that kind of mileage and still get driven hard on a daily basis. It wouldn't hurt to check/replace your distributor cap and rotor although I'd guess the timing being off a tooth more than the dizzy. The misfire thing does sound like a distributor issue more than timing. Who knows, it could be both.

[fribox]

On the plus side, you have a new timing belt! That's a HUGE plus. However, that makes the timing that much more suspect. It wouldn't be hard to pull the upper timing cover off and have a look at the pulleys just to make sure that everything is lined up. 221k on a 5S-FE isn't bad at all. There are plenty of 5S's around this forum that have that kind of mileage and still get driven hard on a daily basis. It wouldn't hurt to check/replace your distributor cap and rotor although I'd guess the timing being off a tooth more than the dizzy. The misfire thing does sound like a distributor issue more than timing. Who knows, it could be both.

Thanks for all the help! I'll pull off the upper timing cover tomorrow and give it a look. I'll also give the cap a check to see if it needs replaced, but I might as well replace it if I'm taking it off. If cap/rotor doesn't fix the problem and the timing isn't off I will probably look into buying a new distributor. Any way to get those things checked instead of just going out and buying a new one?

[Box]

Generally when the distributor goes out it'll throw a code and won't really run at all. That and the inside of it will look like spaghetti from where the copper coil has unraveled. Being the car is OBDII it definitely should be throwing a code for anything serious. As far as it only revving to 5K, does that apply to neutral as well? Have you tried revving it by manually moving the throttle? Could be something as simple needing to adjust/replace the throttle cable. If that's not it I'd look into the cam position sensor or MAP sensor.

On the misfire issue that could be the above, or possibly an ignition coil. Plugs and wires can also cause misfire. Though again being OBDII there should be a code for a major component failure.

[fribox]

Alright, gave revving it in neutral a try. Interesting results.
I got a little video
I love that stock exhaust though.
Throttle does go completely open when floored and does the same thing when messing with the throttle under the hood.

Also checked around the valve cover, seems to be very clean. I wont know until I have a gasket to put on it.

[Box]

It's as if it's in a limp mode. Is the check engine light on? Seems like something on the timing is off. Just find it odd that a Toyota dealership would **** up timing on something like that.

[fribox]

It's as if it's in a limp mode. Is the check engine light on? Seems like something on the timing is off. Just find it odd that a Toyota dealership would **** up timing on something like that.

The check engine light isn't on.
The car seems to run fine otherwise and has plenty of power through the rpm range it does go.
I was going to take the upper timing cover off today, but I don't feel confident mechanically to play with stuff like that. Maybe tomorrow I'll man up and give it a go.

EDIT: Just took it for a drive. Hit ~4700rpm in first and second. It falls flat on its face, it was actually sort of scary. It basically felt like I took my foot off the gas.

This post has been edited by fribox: Jul 20, 2013 - 11:32 PM

[fribox]

Did cap today, seems to run a bit better. Far less stumbling than before. Autozone didn't carry my rotor so when I buy new wires (even though these look pretty new) i'll order a new rotor.
I had to take off most of the intake, all the bolts were rusted and I'm surprised none snapped off.


This post has been edited by fribox: Aug 17, 2013 - 12:24 PM

[fribox]

Roof rust fixed, door rust fixed, dents pulled, chips filled, peeling paint blasted, new paint.

[Box]

Yay new paint!

[fribox]

Moar pictures. Never fixed that headlight, I should really get on that.

[Box]

Might as well just get projectors at this point.

[fribox]

<snip>

EDIT:
Taking it to a shop tomorrow, if it has a blown head it'll probably get scrapped or parted out unfortunately.
I hope that is not the problem, I don't want to let it go yet.

EDIT2:
Not a headgasket, mechanic said if I'm burning anything its probably oil, but that it was unlikely.

This post has been edited by fribox: Aug 29, 2013 - 8:54 AM

[fribox]

Dropped the new radiator in. (I'll get a pic up tomorrow)
Apparently the "oil leak" was just water spraying from the cracked radiator onto the greasy engine and collecting gunk as it ran down, giving the same look as oil.
I feel pretty stupid, but at least its fixed.

Stumbling still persisting, I'm very curious to what it is.

[JoshuaM]

Whoa, close call!

P.S. We WILL disown you if you don't fix up that headlight

[cheela]

Whoa, close call!

P.S. We WILL disown you if you scrap a celica THAT nice!

[fribox]

Haha, Thanks guys.
I've been away for some time, still haven't fixed that headlight, but the Celica is still running great (besides the continuing revving issues that seem to have no effect on every-day driving). Ticking away near 223k miles (passed 222222 without a picture, I was thoroughly upset). Been primarily working on my motorcycle so not much time has went into the Celica. I'm thinking of getting a new engine or rebuilding the current one sometime over the winter (probably between semesters) in preparation for greater things down the road and an overall better driving experience. I don't have a lot of money to drop on speedy-parts or suspension stuff, but I'd put some money in the motor if it meant a better car for a longer time. I have decided I DO like revs for the sake of revs and would like a 3S-GE engine, but the swap scares me a little and I do not have any idea what I'm doing; something to consider sometime down the road. Depending on how much the restoration costs me on my motorcycle I'll have enough money to either buy a newer engine, or buy a 3S-GE engine. I feel I'd be more satisfied with a 3S-GE engine, but like I said the swap scares me.

Anyway, thoughts? I do have a few mechanically-inclined relatives that *might* be able to help me do a swap if I needed to. I know a lot of information is around here regarding that swap, but I wouldn't want to be out of a car AND a lot of money.

oh, and picture of my 1968 CB350

This post has been edited by fribox: Oct 29, 2013 - 9:21 PM

[fribox]

Update:
Turns out that miss-firing/wobbling/whatever was actually a completely broken motor mount, I was guessing since the car was shaking a lot. Since the motor mount was broken it snapped one of the clamps on my exhaust and threw my engine into a closed loop hence why I was losing so much power and gas mileage. Valve cover gasket also got replaced and stopped the leaking. Not bad, things are looking up for my crappy little commuter; now all my engine problems are fixed.

EDIT:
Drivetrain is still shaking a little, nowhere near as bad as it was. Needs a new front engine mount too probably, it'll get put in next weekend.
Next I'll probably be replacing the trim inside the car with new woodgrain trim if I can find it. One of the rims is bent very slightly, but while I'm getting the trim (hopefully from a scrapped celica) I'll grab a set of stock rims since the ones on it are ugly as sin itself. Hopefully the scrapped ones are in good shape so I can rip out a seat too and use it to build a racing rig for the new Gran Turismo game so I'll feel right at home.

This post has been edited by fribox: Nov 23, 2013 - 5:39 PM