cv axle, quick question. Options

[cwong]

How hard is it to change the driver side cv axle for some one that isn't too mechanicaly inclined.

[Schwartz202]

What's the most that you have done as far as repairs?

[Tigawoods]

its a bit of a pain. the snap ring on the trans end of the axle was my biggest annoyance

[ILoveMySilly97]

The snap ring is a pain in the ass. I tore apart my old axle because I kept pulling it but the inner axle was still stuck in the transmission. Had to grip it with pliers and attached
it to a slide hammer to get it off.

[RabidTRD]

The snap ring is a pain in the ass. I tore apart my old axle because I kept pulling it but the inner axle was still stuck in the transmission. Had to grip it with pliers and attached
it to a slide hammer to get it off.

This. Vice grips and a slide hammer.

[cwong]

What's the most that you have done as far as repairs?

change break pads....

[Spider77]

If the most amount of maintenance you've done is brake pads, then............well. Let me put it this way, there are a few different methods. One (this applies to OEM) you "pop" it out using the collars/pry bar. Two, slide hammer/vice grips/whatever, mostly this will apply to aftermarket as the "collars" are missing, Three (my preferred method, in regards to 'most" aftermarket), ratchet strap to keep tension and pry bar. All in all, the driver side is not that bad. If the half-shaft is shot, just get it out by whatever means and replace it.

[cheela]

ok, so what are your guys' opinion/recommendation on OEM vs Aftermarket?
I'm sure OEM is best but just wondering if aftermarket has an issues/ problems.

[mkernz22]

autozone ones worked fine for me

[Schwartz202]

What's the most that you have done as far as repairs?

change break pads....

If thats the only thing you've done be prepared to take at least 3-4 hours to do the job. You're also going to need an impact wrench or an extremely large breaker bar and a lot of power to break the axle nut loose. It can be very stressful when the inner ring will not pop loose but if you use a pry bar and use moderate force it will come out. Also, make sure you get the OEM outer shaft seal.

[SwissFerdi]

ok, so what are your guys' opinion/recommendation on OEM vs Aftermarket?
I'm sure OEM is best but just wondering if aftermarket has an issues/ problems.

Autozone, Advance Auto, O'reilly's, NAPA, nor Carquest have the correct axle in stock. They carry a variation of TO-8100, which is categorized as a sixth gen axle but is actually for a 5GC, and is too short. EMPI is what ended up fitting for me, special-order through Carquest.

Secondly, the Duralast axle I worked with did not have indentations on the tulip, which makes it hard pry out. Not much of an issue with installation, but if you ever have to remove it...

autozone ones worked fine for me

Part number?

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 6, 2013 - 12:16 AM

[cwong]

what about these ones on amazon?
http://www.amazon.com/TO87698768A-front-Le...ota+celica+1995




when changing the driver side do i also need to remove the passenger side axle also?

is there anything i should change out while im down there?

If the most amount of maintenance you've done is brake pads, then............well. Let me put it this way, there are a few different methods. One (this applies to OEM) you "pop" it out using the collars/pry bar. Two, slide hammer/vice grips/whatever, mostly this will apply to aftermarket as the "collars" are missing, Three (my preferred method, in regards to 'most" aftermarket), ratchet strap to keep tension and pry bar. All in all, the driver side is not that bad. If the half-shaft is shot, just get it out by whatever means and replace it.

what do you mean by "collar"

[ILoveMySilly97]

Since you're down there you might as well buy new nuts to replace the filler and drain nuts. Also swap the fluid to Pennzoil synchromesh. Well at least that's what I ended up doing with my s54. The old filler and drain nuts are stupid big and flat so it's hard for the socket to grip and also the Pennzoil synchromesh will help out your synchros and prevent the common 3rd gear grind.

[SwissFerdi]

what about these ones on amazon?

I can't tell from here, there is no length specification. The DS axle length should be 25 5/8" (although I must double check). The incorrect axle length that I have found commonly sold is 24 19/32." I bought this one, and it was too short by a few mm, although it cross-checks correctly with my vehicle pretty much everywhere.

Although you have a GT so that may change your experience, but I've heard of errors on that account as well, I think Jonathan (808celica) had issues with fitment too.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 6, 2013 - 5:37 PM

[mkernz22]

ok, so what are your guys' opinion/recommendation on OEM vs Aftermarket?
I'm sure OEM is best but just wondering if aftermarket has an issues/ problems.

Autozone, Advance Auto, O'reilly's, NAPA, nor Carquest have the correct axle in stock. They carry a variation of TO-8100, which is categorized as a sixth gen axle but is actually for a 5GC, and is too short. EMPI is what ended up fitting for me, special-order through Carquest.

Secondly, the Duralast axle I worked with did not have indentations on the tulip, which makes it hard pry out. Not much of an issue with installation, but if you ever have to remove it...

autozone ones worked fine for me

Part number?

Well I have a GT and you have an ST so that's probably why it's been fine for me

[Ted95]

I just replaced a set again today, always a good time.

Impact tools are your friend with this stuff, if not PB Blaster or WD-40 will help get the job done for the two nuts and bolt for the control arm to ball joint, and I pry bar to pull down the control arm a tad.

The slide hammer always does the trick for me tho to pop the axle out and a good hammer to snap the axle back in (keeping the axle StraighT of course) also good to put the axle nut on so its flush with the shaft and that way you hit the nut and axle shaft tip, and not messing up the axle threads. That's how Ive always done it.

It is a process, but doable with patience. second set of hands can be a big help pulling the strut and knuckle out of the way. 1-4hrs depending on experience level.

[Spider77]

what about these ones on amazon?
http://www.amazon.com/TO87698768A-front-Le...ota+celica+1995




when changing the driver side do i also need to remove the passenger side axle also?

is there anything i should change out while im down there?

If the most amount of maintenance you've done is brake pads, then............well. Let me put it this way, there are a few different methods. One (this applies to OEM) you "pop" it out using the collars/pry bar. Two, slide hammer/vice grips/whatever, mostly this will apply to aftermarket as the "collars" are missing, Three (my preferred method, in regards to 'most" aftermarket), ratchet strap to keep tension and pry bar. All in all, the driver side is not that bad. If the half-shaft is shot, just get it out by whatever means and replace it.

what do you mean by "collar"

On the OEM halfshafts there are these collars (or dog ears, tabs, etc....) that are on the inboard tulip. These aid in removal, as they give a spot to pry on. Most aftermarket (in my experience) are smooth and do not offer this. Although a rebuilt OEM should have it.

[ILoveMySilly97]

^The one I purchased refurbished drivers side from O'Reilly had the collars.