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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 13, '06 From Kaimuki, HI Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) ![]() |
Not sure if you guys read my other thread on me changing out my indicator lights to LEDs, but once I did, the battery light stuck on when the car is running (as if there is a low voltage). I checked the voltage and it is at 14.06 when running. I have never worked on the battery indicator, nor am I familiar with how the system works. I'm sure there are others who have changed out their gauge cluster indicators to LEDs and have experienced a similar problem, I just want to know what was done to fix this. I'm thinking about putting a resistor in parallel with the bulb circuit so the wattage will jump back to what it was with the incandescent bulb. This seems to be the best way to bring the system back to where it would operate as it normally would without putting an incandescent bulb back in its place. Also the battery indicator light is dimmer than the other indicator lights, which makes me wonder if there is somehow just lower voltage to the battery indicator light and the voltage-checking system. If others have done the LED indicator modification and have not seen a battery light please let me know before I look into that as the problem.
Does someone have more insight into how the battery indicator system works? Technical details? Where is the voltage sensing device? Is it in the gauges or elsewhere? Thanks! This post has been edited by match220: Feb 14, 2014 - 5:30 AM -------------------- -Jay
95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other 01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished 02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Jul 17, '12 From Slovenia Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
When I was doing my LED upgrade I followed the guide on CCUK, where it says
"Replace ALL remaining EXCEPT Battery Telltale AND Fuel Level Telltale with Xenon White 286 (DONT replace Battery Telltale as this will fry your alternator and partially illuminate Oil Level and (!) Telltale, the circuit requires the resistance of the bulb to operate correctly and the LEDs dont generate the required resistance))." -------------------- |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 13, '06 From Kaimuki, HI Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) ![]() |
When I was doing my LED upgrade I followed the guide on CCUK, where it says "Replace ALL remaining EXCEPT Battery Telltale AND Fuel Level Telltale with Xenon White 286 (DONT replace Battery Telltale as this will fry your alternator and partially illuminate Oil Level and (!) Telltale, the circuit requires the resistance of the bulb to operate correctly and the LEDs dont generate the required resistance))." perfect, then I'll add in the resistor with the appropriate wattage to raise it back to what the little 74 bulb drew. -------------------- -Jay
95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other 01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished 02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve |
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