Less camber via control arms Options

[yellowchinaman]

People say you can't adjust the rear camber of the 6G.
The original rear arms have a rod length adjuster and front ones are fixed for toe adjustments.
Like the two seen in this link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CELICA-ST202-AT200...018&vxp=mtr

So my thoughts are that the front and rear control arms are of the same fitments in bushes?

If so, then theoretically if I buy 4 of the rear arms I can shorten them reducing the camber?

[Batman722]

maybe.

This post has been edited by Batman722: Sep 4, 2013 - 6:14 AM

[Tigawoods]

that probably would work

[yellowchinaman]

just had confirmation that the front and rear rods are the same fitment so I'm going to try and order a 2 sets of rears for camber adjustment.

[bnr32celica]

just had confirmation that the front and rear rods are the same fitment so I'm going to try and order a 2 sets of rears for camber adjustment.

Let us know how it goes. I think you may be onto something.

[ILoveMySilly97]

After installation. Would they be adjustable without nodding it furthermore?

[yellowchinaman]

After installation. Would they be adjustable without nodding it furthermore?

sorry what do you mean nodding it furthermore?

My idea is that once on you only need to get under the car and turn the buckles to extend or shorten the rods to reduce or gain more camber. Nothing else is needed to make this work. Just swap out the old with these.

This post has been edited by yellowchinaman: Sep 6, 2013 - 11:17 AM

[CrossCudi]

as soon as u say it works,
im pressing submit to checkout !

[Galcobar]

After installation. Would they be adjustable without nodding it furthermore?

sorry what do you mean nodding it furthermore?

My idea is that once on you only need to get under the car and turn the buckles to extend or shorten the rods to reduce or gain more camber. Nothing else is needed to make this work. Just swap out the old with these.

Guessing typo? Modding versus nodding.

An issue with changing the camber via this method is that you're forcing the entire strut assembly to sit at an angle, which means all of the stress is going to be on the strut rob and the relatively thin metal holding it in the strut mount -- which is not designed to operate at that angle. It's why you see camber plates replace strut mounts, or why camber is more often adjusted by using asymmetrical bolts to angle the knuckle while the strut remains straight.

[ILoveMySilly97]

^What he said. Lol.

[yellowchinaman]

After installation. Would they be adjustable without nodding it furthermore?

sorry what do you mean nodding it furthermore?

My idea is that once on you only need to get under the car and turn the buckles to extend or shorten the rods to reduce or gain more camber. Nothing else is needed to make this work. Just swap out the old with these.

Guessing typo? Modding versus nodding.

An issue with changing the camber via this method is that you're forcing the entire strut assembly to sit at an angle, which means all of the stress is going to be on the strut rob and the relatively thin metal holding it in the strut mount -- which is not designed to operate at that angle. It's why you see camber plates replace strut mounts, or why camber is more often adjusted by using asymmetrical bolts to angle the knuckle while the strut remains straight.

I see what you mean but I don't see with the amount of negative camber I am after, it's not going to create any extra strain on any point because the outer CV joint allows the hub to bend much much more.
I was told the rods can be shorten over a cm in length which is way too much for what I need. only 5 mm's is enough for my rear wheels to be at 0deg. the only difference in pivot point I can think of will be at the top mounts but they are on a ball joint allowing the entire strut to swivel.
Sure there actual hub will be positioned deeper by a few mm's but the entire rear drive shaft can move in and out a lot more then that.
Top camber plates will be ideal but there isn't any in the market besides adjustable top mounts like BC but there is very little room in the chassis to allow it to move enough to make the difference. I have camber bolts but quite frankly I don't like the idea of using them especially for track use they tend to not stay in the same setting and they only offer about 1-1.5 deg difference.

I think it's going to be one of those things where until some one tried we'll never know. I'm going dig into my pockets to test this out at the end of the month and if it works, then it'll be a solution to a simple common problem for those with lowered 6G's.

This post has been edited by yellowchinaman: Sep 7, 2013 - 5:28 AM

[Galcobar]

I'm not sure if I follow your explanation of why the strut would not be forced to sit at an angle.

Unless you're talking about an ST205, there aren't any rear constant velocity joints because there isn't a rear axle. Even with a rear axle, the CV joints accommodate the strut compression, but not varying angles of installation.

Similarly, strut mounts which accommodate a bearing will handle the strut spinning in place, not twisting off to one side or another. Those bearings are meant for two-dimensional movement only.

[yellowchinaman]

Sorry buddy you've lost me.
Yes the st205 has cv joints immediatly after the hub.
I cant see where else you are referring to that will have added strain.

[Tigawoods]

top mounts work great but require the removal of the coilover each time you want to adjust.
this would be a great idea for minor adjustments.

I might just give this a try when I do the rear poly mounts

[yellowchinaman]

top mounts work great but require the removal of the coilover each time you want to adjust.
this would be a great idea for minor adjustments.

I might just give this a try when I do the rear poly mounts

Ive seen people with adjustable rear top mounts fitted but with widened holes in the rear in order to adjust the camber without having to remove the struts.

This post has been edited by yellowchinaman: Sep 11, 2013 - 8:31 AM

[rdyzz]

using two sets of adjustable control arm will allow you to adjust camber, but by doing so your affecting the rear track. btw tilting the strut more wont have any negative affects to the rear, its a strut not a shock, it was built with the purpose in mind of having loads come at it in whatever which way. besides the spring works to hold the weight of the car, many celica's with worn broken struts seem to have to stay in place until you disassemble the mounting then it drops and falls apart, some so bad the shaft actually falls out. it might cause the damper to have a little more stiction, but it will also improve the camber curve ever so slightly.

why not use a crash bolt or camber bolt? those seem to work pretty well provided you impact it on there good.

This post has been edited by rdyzz: Oct 8, 2013 - 6:00 PM

[qatar11]

Y U NO CAMBER BOLT!?!

[yellowchinaman]

Just got these

[mkernz22]

Nice, let's see how it works out!

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Dec 7, 2013 - 4:04 PM

[Syaoran]

Hurry up with this, I'm intrigued!!!