GT-FOUR El Franjeado, EFR turbo etcq Options

[Neon90424]

I'll take advantage of this and say hello as this is my first post in this forum. I recently acquired a GT-Four from 1999 randomly traded my 2003 celica Gt JDM ofcourse was a neat ride but too low gas mileage was good beat the **** out of the car and of course... wrong wheel drive :S... So I kept driving past this pretty GT Four and I decided to check it out the next day... My cars underside was beat to hell ( rocky roads speed bumps carter looked like muhamed ali punched it) He said No mechanics or the deals always go sour, sure what the hell my car was beat to **** and ate cans of oil. I tested it and sure for me it was like driving a missile. So now the details, I liked that it had a nice thick Aluminum KOYO racing radiator and a Cusco alloy strut brace and a sweet japanese roundish air intake and 57K kilometers on the Odo...the limited 300km/h TRD speedo so I was turned on by this and the next day I was drivin this gas guzzler home...No surprise it had problems....

So the damage is this blown turbo seals no idea of what the engine condition is my intake manifold and everything else is covered inside with oil...

I came to the US and bought basically 2 grand worth in parts didnt have that much money so I had to compromise, Heres the list, try not to cringe. Im basically gonna slap all this **** together and see if it works...

GODSPEED KKR 480 Twin scroll turbo ( says its 450HP capable I'm aiming at 350)
4 Iridium spark plugs heat range 7
HKS SSQV black limited edition BOV
AEM Water/Meth Inj 5 Gallon tank (our gas aint so purdi)
Ebay oil catch can
Timing belt set with new water pump (dont need the water pump but taking it as insurance anyways)
ACT 6 puc clutch disk ( stock clutch slips a bit under high rev launching)
crappy chinese AFR narrow band digital clockything (just so it tells me Im not melting pistons
25mm ebay wheel spacers
ebay electronic boost controller
ebay n1 carbon fiber burnt tip muffler
electric exhaust cut out from Raceland USA
carbon fiber raiser blocks from hong kong and the normal GT four wing for 40$ off a local supra guy.
cheap 25$ bishieclipse FCD
Ill try to update once I get to Paraguay and slap all this stuff on, Should be fun to see the results...

Cheers

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Sep 8, 2012 - 6:06 AM

[gt4st205]

Thats a very nice 205 you got there(saw the pics on your profile). You are definently in the right place to get info and help on the car. Post some pics up!

Welcome!

[Neon90424]

I've got 2 vids I'll post pics that i can find online

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLjafuHj33Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KP35iK6ohY

As you can see if a regular 2000 GT can pass me ive got problems around 60mph no more cool acceleration

[Neon90424]

When i first got it at our first GT4 club meeting haha



Second meeting as you can see it was so low i ripped the front part off




Its not completely useless

[gt4st205]

That's to bad about your front bumper, were you looking at getting a stock GT-Four one?

[Neon90424]

my profile pic is the current pic I fixed the body details for about 300$

[gt4st205]

Glad you were able to fix it!

[Neon90424]

I actually broke the pass side rear wheel holding bar thing....my wheel could twist on its axis and still had power...scary when it accelerated...broke it doing a handbrake park, tow truck to the mecanic y had it replaced...Havent hand brake parked anymore lol...did it on a stone road...

it was like drifting sideways by just accelerating hard on the slick stone lol! cost me friggin 200$ to fix tho

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 19, 2011 - 2:33 PM

[Neon90424]

Anyone got any predictions? I don't know if this turbo will be more laggy or If i will hit fuel cut I havent read anything of slapping on a different twin scroll turbo on a 3sgte I have no idea about the wastegate it has its own internal waste gate...I'm so confused right now

[presure2]

my prediction is not to install that FCD.
itll lock your map sensor at one voltage, which will cause the car to run like poo, and if you manage to make boost while its installed, could very well blow your motor.

get an "active" style map clamp if you want to run more than 18psi.

your new turbo wont bolt up to the factory manifold, do you have an adapter?

do you have a link to the specs of the turbo you have?

throw the narrowband o2 gauge in the garbage, its pretty much usless for any kind of real info, other than if your stock o2 sensor is working or not.

[Neon90424]

Turbo Specification:

Maximum Horse Power
450HP
Turbo Inlet (intake)
3"
Turbo outlet (intercooler)
2”
Cooling type
Oil & water cooled
Type of Wastegate
Internal Wastegate (Default 8 PSI)
Compressor
.50 AR
Compressor Wheel
53mm/76.5mm Diameter
Turbine
.84 AR
Turbine Wheel
56mm/73mm Diameter
Turbine flange type
T3 (Twin entry)
Down pipe type
2.5” v-band

I thought the guage would help keep me awake at night better than coffee imagine a coffee mug that annoys you in diff colorS!

FCD description from ebay is as follows

This FCD acts as a voltage clamp that you wire into your factory MAP sensor wiring. Installation is very simple, and takes the normal individual about 15 minutes to install. This is a basic 3 wire FCD that you wire into the factory harness, and set the voltage on the FCD using a Digital Multi-Meter (not included, but directions are with purchase), and simply leave it be. Once your voltage is set, you can boost as much as your engines internals will handle and never have to worry about fuel cut EVER again. I own a 98 Mitsu Eclipse myself, that has been turbocharged and am still using the same FCD that I installed on it 5 years ago. All my products carry a LIFETIME warranty on part defects, failures and craftsmanship. I will not warranty any FCD that has been misused or installed incorrectly. This FCD is much more reliable than the mechanical Missing Links that are available out on the market as well. Why? Mainly because this is an electronic part that basically tricks the computer. When you create pressure (boost) the voltage of your MAP raises. When the computer see's usually around anything higher than 4.65 volts, it cuts fuel. You can set this FCD to hold voltage at 4.63 volts and when you creep into boost, it will hold it at 4.63 or whatever you desire to set it at, that way the computer never see's anything higher than its limits, therefor, does not create what is known as fuel cut.

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 19, 2011 - 7:56 PM

[presure2]

lmao! it will give you a pretty light show!
i'd be worried about boost creep with that turbo.

what are you using for an exhaust manifold? that turbo wont bolt to the stock one.

do you have a link to the FCD on ebay?

from the description it sounds like it holds at one voltage. if that IS what it does, you cant use it on a 3rd gen 3s, because it uses the map sensor for its fuel trims.
lock it at one voltage, and it will send the same amount of fuel under all conditions.
that is bad.

an active style clamp allows the ecu to work as normal below the voltage you set it at, and locks it there when you get to it, or above it.
if that is how that one works, then your fine. (that is the style that i use on my car, as well as several others that i know with 3rd gens)

[95st-celica]

lol.....i feel so bad for this poor car....and 57k at that

some people just dont understand what its like to not have the availability of a true ST205

[Neon90424]

you sure? why not? yeah...st205s go for 7 grand down where I am...Im looking for guidance so that it doesnt explode thank you 57k is like 28K miles...car starts in a blink of an eye turbo is my only problem I have a regular chinese T3/T4 turbo on my sand rail...has a 3vz-fe I bought with its auto tranny for 600$...10,000$ later its still a sh*T pile.

Ok I've been using the search function google and ebay and I don't know if im fkin retarded or my mom dropped me on my head when I was little but i just cant find the name of the flange that the stock exhaust manifold has to the turbo... That KKR thing is T3 twin scroll so i hope its the same thing but u guys say its like tryin to mate rosie o'donell to a human

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 19, 2011 - 10:18 PM

[BriinumsBo]

half of the parts you listed are ricing blings useless for power

[Neon90424]

thats only 3 things on there the BOV the muffler and the afr gauge you know?...what kind of GT4 is a GT4 without raiser blocks too? Im really workin on a tight budget not much money in Paraguay...but you live cheap and eat cheap n good:)

[Culpable04]

ok, un poco de ayuda.

nesesitas esta pieza para adaptar ese turbo
T3 Adapter !

tambien nesesitaras adaptar las lineas de aceite y anticongelante.

el FCD que compraste no funcionara con este motor, este motor ajusta el ciclo de los injectores basado en la informacion que recibe del sensor de presion ( MAP sensor ) ese que compraste ajusta la senal a un voltage fijo, eso causara que la computadora ponga los injectores a trabajar en el mismo ciclo todo el tiempo, a mil revoluciones estaras recibiendo la misma cantidad de combustible que a 7 mil revoluciones, y eso puede hacer que le tomes fotos a los pistones ( no creo que quieras eso )
nesesitas un FCD como este, si lees la descripcion veras que es Activo, esto quiere decir que tu seleccionas el voltaje maximo para no llegar a " fuel Cut " pero debajo de ese voltaje deja que el sensor funcione normal.

Symtech FCD

nesesitas comprar un wideband, ese reloj que compraste sera inutil y para asegurarte que las cosas andan bien con ese nuevo turbo nesesitas un wideband, y en el futuro considera agregar injection de agua, asi podras correr mas llibras y el motor estara mas seguro a la vez.

[Neon90424]

Ya compre Injeccion de Agua, Y el flange no es igual al del turbo que tengo....

Crap...looks like i got some adaptin' to do

I thought the CT20 flange would be divided? The turbo I have is a twin scroll divided thingy...but it seems to be a bit wide

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jan 20, 2011 - 9:09 AM

[Culpable04]

CT20 flange is also divided ( twin entry ) but what you have to worry about is the footprint of the turbo, it says T3 so you need a ct20 to T3 adapter like the one on the link I posted.

[presure2]

Ya compre Injeccion de Agua, Y el flange no es igual al del turbo que tengo....

Crap...looks like i got some adaptin' to do

I thought the CT20 flange would be divided? The turbo I have is a twin scroll divided thingy...but it seems to be a bit wide

the stock manifold and turbo are twin scroll design as well, but theyre flanges are propriatary to toyota.

there are a few companies that make adapters to run just about any turbo you'd like, just a matter of what you want to spend.
they range from ~50$ for a cheap ebay one to several hundred for a really nice, CNC'd peice from a place like atsracing