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> Strut Replacement, do you need to remove the CV axle?
post Jan 12, 2014 - 12:11 PM
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VavAlephVav



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I'm going to replace my struts here in a couple weeks.
Not expensive coilovers, just some KYB cartridges and mounts.

from the stickied threads I've learned that you want to loosen, but not remove the top mount before you lift the car.
Then it seems you can just remove the mount bolts and the 2 bolts on the steering knuckle and it will just come right out.

but my friend thinks you have to remove the CV axle,
Do you need to take the CV, or anything else from the front end apart to get the front strut out?

I've seen that to do the back ones you need to take the seats out and remove those side panels. I'll deal with that later.


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post Jan 12, 2014 - 12:37 PM
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smkr3w



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QUOTE (VavAlephVav @ Jan 12, 2014 - 10:11 AM) *
I'm going to replace my struts here in a couple weeks.
Not expensive coilovers, just some KYB cartridges and mounts.

from the stickied threads I've learned that you want to loosen, but not remove the top mount before you lift the car.
Then it seems you can just remove the mount bolts and the 2 bolts on the steering knuckle and it will just come right out.

but my friend thinks you have to remove the CV axle,
Do you need to take the CV, or anything else from the front end apart to get the front strut out?

I've seen that to do the back ones you need to take the seats out and remove those side panels. I'll deal with that later.

I never removed the cv axles when i swapped out my struts. However you will need to support the knuckle when the stut comes out to avoid tearing the cv boot.


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post Jan 12, 2014 - 3:27 PM
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HectortheRican



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QUOTE (smkr3w @ Jan 12, 2014 - 10:37 AM) *
I never removed the cv axles when i swapped out my struts. However you will need to support the knuckle when the stut comes out to avoid tearing the cv boot.


Seconded. That actually happened to a buddy of mine and he was very pissed. I replaced my used GR-2s with new ones at the end of this past summer. It's a really good idea to loosed the top nut beforehand (learned that the hard way and had to bolt the old strut back in to loosen the nut, after I compressed the spring, too laugh.gif ). As for the rears, I definitely did not take out my seats or the back panels. You have a hatchback as well, so you can just remove panel covers to gain access to the bolts and go at it from the trunk. I had a friend help me align the bolts with the holes for the rears and that helped a lot. Make sure you have a breaker bar, too. Those knuckle bolts were still a terror even after a generous P'Blaster shower.

This post has been edited by HectortheRican: Jan 12, 2014 - 3:28 PM


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post Jan 12, 2014 - 10:26 PM
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VavAlephVav



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Great. just replaced the CV don't want to mess it up : )
ya I took the back covers off today and was looking at them - should be able to get those with a boxend or gear ratchet.
thanks


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post Jan 13, 2014 - 10:59 AM
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rave2n

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QUOTE (VavAlephVav @ Jan 12, 2014 - 10:26 PM) *
Great. just replaced the CV don't want to mess it up : )
ya I took the back covers off today and was looking at them - should be able to get those with a boxend or gear ratchet.
thanks


yea you can squeeze in there without removing the whole rear covers
post Jan 13, 2014 - 12:17 PM
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RabidTRD



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Toyota is full of geniuses. If you grab the back molding and pull a bit to the side, you can peak in and there is a slot cut and shaped in the body, just big enough to slide a socket and extension down in. Rear bolt just became 100x easier to access.


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