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> Finally, it begins...., Project GT2 Underway
post Jan 30, 2004 - 1:34 PM
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SpedToe169



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I finally have almost all the stuff I need to get moving on this project. Its an insane amount of stuff and I'm still going to have to fabricate a few things but all the big stuff is finally here. As some of you know, I bought Charlie97L's turbo setup with the intent of modifying it and improving it. I sent him money on Nov 5th and finally got the last of the stuff today.

Garrett t3/t4
Tial 35mm wastegate
HKS SSQ BOV
JGS Equal Length Manifold (the last one produced I believe?)
Turbo XS HP-MBC
Bell Engineering RR-FPR
Supra Intercooler (later to be replace by a custom intercooler with sparco core)
Venom Injectors (320cc I believe, have to look)
Walbro 320gph supra turbo fuel pump
SAFC-II (already on the car)

I'll be fabricating my own downpipe and full exhaust in mandrel bent 3" stainless. Haven't decided how I'm going to do the wastegate dump yet...might be a divorced wastegate to be really obnoxious.

I've got a spare tranny and a spare motor to build. The plan goes like this.

Port the manifold, the turbo and anything else I can get my hands on. Finish porting my intake. Put the turbo system on the car, get the bugs worked out, make about 180hp at the wheels.

At that point hopefully I'll have some money saved up to build the spare motor and tranny. The tranny will be another C52 with a phantom grip limited slip and a full ground up rebuild (bearings, synchros, seals, etc).

The motor I haven't totally decided on. I think I'm going to have forged pistons made for it but use all other stock internals. I'll beam polish, magnaflux, and shot-peen the rods, the crank will be magnafluxed, knife-edged, and shot peened (counterweights will be lightened by the knife-edge process). The entire rotating assembly will be balanced and reassembled with ARP fastners. I will port the head and it will get a 5-angle serti valve grind. Cams will be stock with stock timing. This motor should be strong enough to take about 12-13psi on 93 pump gas. The rev limit will remain stock at 6750. I'll likely increase the charge pipe to 2.5" aluminum and upgrade the intecooler after all this is done.

I'm hoping for 220hp at the wheels with minimal lag and good torque when all is said and done. I'm not going for all out power (at least for a while), I'm more interested in getting the reilability to the point where I feel good about driving it everyday. I should be able to get the weight of the car down to around 2200lbs (no driver) which should result in a pretty damn quick and fun to drive car.

I'm excited. biggrin.gif
post Jan 30, 2004 - 1:40 PM
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integra_killer

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how do you plan on getting the cars weight down that much?!
i think stock weight is like 2500lbs..
post Jan 30, 2004 - 1:44 PM
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Supersprynt



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Did you get the aluminum flange for the SSQ? It'll make things easier cuz u gotta mount it on the first bend on the IC thru welding.


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post Jan 30, 2004 - 2:14 PM
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SpedToe169



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QUOTE
Did you get the aluminum flange for the SSQ? It'll make things easier cuz u gotta mount it on the first bend on the IC thru welding.


I got all the charge piping off charlie also. Its steel (heavy!!) and like 2" but its already got the flange on it. It should work fine for now. When the time comes to switch to aluminum I can weld a new aluminum flange on.

My car weighed in stock at 2450 no driver, 1/2 tank of gas. This was with 13lb race wheels, so thats a little less weight than a 'true' stock car. Since then I've switched to rear disks which saves a little weight. I also had the trailer hitch on it when I weighed it, that was 15lbs which is off now. The rear seats have been removed and the rear seatbelts will be removed shortly. I'm going to have carpet made for that area so it doesn't look so crappy. I still have yet to put a lightweight battery in, that'll save 20lbs+. My carbon hood should be in this week, that should save 15-20lbs (I'll let you know when I get it). The exhaust I have now is over 20lbs lighter than stock, but the new one I'll be making will be a little heavier. Switching to light aftermarket seats should save 20lbs or more and I'll take some of the sound insulation out when I do that for a total savings of hopefully 30lbs.

That puts me right around 2315 (with 1/2 tank of gas). Theres a lot of material that could be taken out of the doors, especially the side impact beams. I think there may be some weight that could come out of the hatch. At some point I'm going to make new rear lateral links out of aluminum with heim joints. That should save a few lbs.

2200 may be unrealistic in street trim keeping the A/C and other conveniences, but 2300 definitely is not.
post Jan 30, 2004 - 2:32 PM
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Jabberwock

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Hey speedtoe Charlie97L was supposed to send me his short shifter, but he won't reply to my emails.

I already paid him $105 for it and he said his grandpa died and he was having some problems and then he said he sold his car.

After that he said he would refund me the money which never happened.

I was hoping if you were still in contact with him can you tell him to give me my money back.
post Jan 30, 2004 - 5:53 PM
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XXX_Mina



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3sgte or the 5sfe engine?
post Jan 30, 2004 - 5:56 PM
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SpedToe169



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None of the above. 7A. I just have to show everybody its not worthless.
post Jan 30, 2004 - 7:19 PM
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Supersprynt



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Oh yeah i forgot u werent using stock IC.


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post Jan 30, 2004 - 8:37 PM
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zipstrips

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QUOTE (integra_killer @ Jan 30, 2004 - 11:40 AM)
how do you plan on getting the cars weight down that much?!
i think stock weight is like 2500lbs..

goto sr20forum.com and read the official weight reduction thread... you'd be suprised where you can shead weight... some go overboard for just a pound or 2.


to speedtoe: the 7a is a fun boosted motor.. i am jelious of your turbo manifold, if i only knew lance made equal lenght i would have got it. before i get mine running again im looking to go for an external WG sense the internal has given my some problems..but with the log manifold i dunno how to go about it yet. STAR kits for hte eclipse's have a larger manifold and i think i can dup there desgin, and vent to atmosphere like my brothers. or i can go the extra step and work it back into the DP.
post Jan 31, 2004 - 2:28 AM
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SpedToe169



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Yeah, the external WG shouldn't be a problem on the log manifold. Just put it as close to the flange as you can (hard to do, I know). I'm debating how I want to do my wastegate, if I want to route it back into the exhuast, or vent it to atm. I've never heard one, I would imagine they're pretty loud. Might be kinda cool tho.

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