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> Clutch opinions
post Feb 13, 2014 - 3:07 PM
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yfn16

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What brands of clutches have you used for your 5sfe Celica? What's your favorite? Pros? Cons?
post Feb 13, 2014 - 4:00 PM
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cardshark525

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I went with a stage 2 or 3 Centerforce kit when it was time to change mine.

Absolutely no complaints with that clutch, the only real drawback (if you want to look at it that way), is that it bites instantly. There is no slipping with it.
post Feb 14, 2014 - 12:19 AM
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VavAlephVav



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http://www.rsgear.com/blog/2011/5/23/under...n-failures.aspx

this is an article I found while looking into transmission problems it mentions this bit about the racing clutch on the street.
Like cardshark said it will bit instantly and not as smooth as a stock one.

this guy says

Another point of early transmission failure is the wrong choice of clutch for the application. This usually begins with the idea that installing a performance clutch will improve the vehicle performance. There are a great variety of clutch sets available on the performance side and many car owners do not understand what they were designed for when making a purchase. The correct setup will definitely improve performance over stock, and the wrong clutch will make driving a misery and create big time trans failure. We see all the time that an owner has opted to install a full racing clutch in a street driven vehicle. In many cases the friction material is way too aggressive for use in traffic , which shock loads the gear train causing broken inputs, clusters and speed gears, as well as possible damage to the differential and drive shaft. It is very important to match the clutch to the vehicle usage. A car that is only track driven can handle more aggressive setups, while a car that is a daily driver with occasional trips to the drag strip will be no fun to drive in traffic with a clutch that acts like an on/off switch. This happens very frequently in light trucks, where somebody's cousin tells him that the way to go is a ceramic button type of disc instead of the factory woven friction material. They both will work, but the aggressive grab of the button clutch puts the trans at risk as well as making his girlfriend puke sick. Again if the clutch is not releasing properly, the button type or dual disc clutches will increase the failures dramatically. One other issue that results in very rapid transmission damage similar to overly aggressive clutch friction material is the choice of the clutch disc itself. The vehicle was manufactured with a clutch disc that had a sprung hub. This allows the disc as it engages the flywheel and pressure plate to turn against the springs in the hub absorbing the shock load and removing harmonic vibrations that cause gear rattle and other noise issues due to engine harmonic vibrations. In the quest for better performance the owner may substitute a solid or unsprung clutch disc, eliminating the cushion effects engineered into the OEM product. An unsprung clutch hub should only be used in a purpose built race vehicle where the owner intends to freshen up the clutch and trans every race or two. The unsprung hub will definitely shorten the component life of the transmission.


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post Feb 14, 2014 - 10:07 AM
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yfn16

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I'll be going with a stage 1 clutch. Stage 2 at the most. So we have +1 for Centerforce. Anyone else? ACT? Exedy?
post Feb 16, 2014 - 6:00 AM
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match220



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QUOTE (yfn16 @ Feb 14, 2014 - 5:07 AM) *
I'll be going with a stage 1 clutch. Stage 2 at the most. So we have +1 for Centerforce. Anyone else? ACT? Exedy?


I bought a 6 puck ACT clutch about 7 years ago. Very stiff clutch and grabs very hard. Took some time to get used to it in the beginning. I either barked the tires or stalled everytime I let off the clutch in first until I found the "sweet spot". After about 1000 miles it was better. Definitely not a good clutch to get if you expect to sit in stop-n-go traffic, but if you want something that really grabs I would say get it. As far as longevity, I can't say how long it will last since I did an engine swap about a year later.


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-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Feb 16, 2014 - 1:26 PM
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mkernz22



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just get a freakin oem clutch. it's a 5s for god's sake.
post Feb 16, 2014 - 2:41 PM
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Poonicus



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Well I've been wondering this same question since I'm going to be under taking the 5sfte conversion. Any recommendations would be awesome.


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"As a professor of science, I assure you we did, in fact, evolve from filthy monkey-men." -Prof. Farnsworth
post Feb 17, 2014 - 1:17 AM
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Box



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QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Feb 16, 2014 - 12:26 PM) *
just get a freakin oem clutch. it's a 5s for god's sake.

THAT. Exedy OEM replacement and call it a day.


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2001 Miata LS 5-speed
post Feb 18, 2014 - 10:45 AM
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Poonicus



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QUOTE (Box @ Feb 17, 2014 - 12:17 AM) *
QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Feb 16, 2014 - 12:26 PM) *
just get a freakin oem clutch. it's a 5s for god's sake.

THAT. Exedy OEM replacement and call it a day.


Did some reading on that clutch and you've got me sold box XD


--------------------
"As a professor of science, I assure you we did, in fact, evolve from filthy monkey-men." -Prof. Farnsworth
post Feb 18, 2014 - 2:15 PM
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Smaay

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again with the stages, get out of the midframe of stages. company X has different rating for stage 1 versus company Y.

all you need to concern yourself is torque rating. if you have minor mods like simple bolts on, an OEM rated clutch will be all you need.


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2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed
1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap
1990 Celica All-Trac
post Feb 18, 2014 - 7:57 PM
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1994Celica



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QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Feb 16, 2014 - 2:26 PM) *
just get a freakin oem clutch. it's a 5s for god's sake.

But...but what if I have an intake? Doesn't that add like a gazillion hp? That's what my honda friend told me.


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post Feb 18, 2014 - 11:53 PM
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Poonicus



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QUOTE (1994Celica @ Feb 18, 2014 - 6:57 PM) *
QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Feb 16, 2014 - 2:26 PM) *
just get a freakin oem clutch. it's a 5s for god's sake.

But...but what if I have an intake? Doesn't that add like a gazillion hp? That's what my honda friend told me.


Don't forget the extra 50hp for the stick on flames on the car. Because having flames on your car makes it go soooooo much faster XD


--------------------
"As a professor of science, I assure you we did, in fact, evolve from filthy monkey-men." -Prof. Farnsworth
post Feb 21, 2014 - 10:53 AM
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yfn16

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QUOTE (Poonicus @ Feb 19, 2014 - 12:53 AM) *
QUOTE (1994Celica @ Feb 18, 2014 - 6:57 PM) *
QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Feb 16, 2014 - 2:26 PM) *
just get a freakin oem clutch. it's a 5s for god's sake.

But...but what if I have an intake? Doesn't that add like a gazillion hp? That's what my honda friend told me.


Don't forget the extra 50hp for the stick on flames on the car. Because having flames on your car makes it go soooooo much faster XD


But I've got an intake, flames, AND A HUGE WING!! lol
post Feb 21, 2014 - 11:28 AM
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match220



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QUOTE (yfn16 @ Feb 21, 2014 - 5:53 AM) *
QUOTE (Poonicus @ Feb 19, 2014 - 12:53 AM) *
QUOTE (1994Celica @ Feb 18, 2014 - 6:57 PM) *
QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Feb 16, 2014 - 2:26 PM) *
just get a freakin oem clutch. it's a 5s for god's sake.

But...but what if I have an intake? Doesn't that add like a gazillion hp? That's what my honda friend told me.


Don't forget the extra 50hp for the stick on flames on the car. Because having flames on your car makes it go soooooo much faster XD


But I've got an intake, flames, AND A HUGE WING!! lol


You have intake, flames, and a wing? That's what I'm talking about...who needs a Skyline?!?!


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Feb 26, 2014 - 12:34 PM
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6G96GT

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I got full exhaust, cams, intake, and tune and just replaced my aftermarket clutch with an oem this past fall. A new oem is just fine.
post Feb 26, 2014 - 9:54 PM
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jordisonjr



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QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Feb 16, 2014 - 1:26 PM) *
just get a freakin oem clutch. it's a 5s for god's sake.

This.
Unless you're making big power, get the Excedy OEM replacement. If you want to sound 'cool' and be able to say "I have a stage 3 clutch" and sacrifice the comfortable feel of an OEM clutch, well, thats your choice to make that mistake.


--------------------
-Protection mode, For when your amp tries to blow its load.

1995 Toyota Celica GTS - Daily Driver
1999 Chevy Cavalier - Winter Beater
1994 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Dead

My Celica!

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