5s oil pan tips please =) Options

[hokuten3]

Hey guys,
I just found that my oil Pan on my 5s has a crack that's leaking alot of oil. I have changed pans before but only with the engine out. So I was wonder if there are any tricks or tips you guys can give me on changing it with the engine instill in the bay. Anything would be appreciated. Thanks!

[njccmd2002]

yes just pull it out... use a hammer, and torch....


lol, i think the crossmember may be in the way of some screws...



but its easy, and messy to take out...





i did this while i was doing the clutch, so i dont remember...

[hokuten3]

Sweet! Even with pics! Haha. Thanks alot! Sure helps =) and yea, the crossmember bar was the only thing that kind of got me worried

[Special_Edy]

Put the front end of the car on jackstands. Under the pickwelded area under the fender and in front of the driverdoor is preferable, it will leave you room to maneuver under the car.

Remove both of under panels located beneath the engine compartment.

Unbolt the exhaust, just the 3 nuts near the front of the bottom of the engine. The mid pipe can now be pushed out the way as needed for the rest of the procedure.

Loosen and remove the large bolt which passes through the front motor mount. Do the same for the rear motor mount, but note that this one is trickier. I usually use a 19mm (or is it 17?) socket with a 3 inch extension. You need to reach from the back, where the exhaust passes over the suspension crossmember. You will only have room to turn the ratchet a few clicks at a time so this bolt takes a while (at least the nut is welded to the other side).

Now remove the plastic caps under the crossmember, one at the front and perhaps two at the back. Next remove the bolts at the back of the rear motor mount which affix it to the exhaust. Remove the nuts and bolts securing the crossmember to the radiator support(2 bolts at the front) and rear suspension crossmember(2 nuts and 1 bolt). The crossmember can dangle now, you will probably want to leave it in like this as getting the mount and crossmember all the way removed is an even larger headache.

If you own a celica equipped with an automatic transmission, you can skip this step. If you have the 5spd manual you will need to remove the clutch cover/reinforcement plate. Remove the bolts securing the reinforcement plate to the exhaust manifold, transmission bellhousing and engine block. On the rear of the block there is a stud with a bar that supports the intake manifold. Remove the nut on the stud and loosen the bolt at the top of the bracket on the intake manifold. Push the bracket out of the way. Next screw two nuts onto the stud and tighten them against each other mid way on the threads. If the nuts are cinched together hard enough you can now use one as a bolt head to turn the stud and remove it. With the stud removed you can now pull the clutch cover off and set it to the side.

Remove the bolts and two nuts holding the oil pan to the block, torque sequence doesnt matter because the Form In Place Gasket will keep the pan secured. With all the bolts out you can try tapping the pan on the sides with a hammer to jar it loose, but some prying will probably be required. Just dont bend the flange kn the pan if you intend on reusing it.

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: May 23, 2014 - 5:46 PM

[hokuten3]

Thanks for the step by step=) will definitely come in handy. And yea, sorry, I have a speed tranny lol

[njccmd2002]

oh you forgot this..

[rave2n]

oh you forgot this..

Hah, recently used that.

My issue was I didn't find that document until after I did it the first time =P

[Special_Edy]

Or if the pan is all jacked up you can buy a cork oil pan gasket from Autozone. Felpro lists it for the camry 5S but I think I found it in the system looking for my 94 Celica. You still need to FIPG it but it held many thousands of miles on my old 5S before it decided to spin a rod bearing.

With FIPG you want to hand tighten the bolts and nuts down as tight as you can get them with just an extension and no ratchet. Let it sit for 24 hours then go back and torque the bolts down to spec. This will give you the best seal.

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: May 23, 2014 - 5:44 PM

[hokuten3]

Yea, I got the cork gasket from AutoZone for 12.99. Its not bad.seems like pretty good quality.

[Smaay]

Yea, I got the cork gasket from AutoZone for 12.99. Its not bad.seems like pretty good quality.

that cork gasket will fail

[presure2]

Yea, I got the cork gasket from AutoZone for 12.99. Its not bad.seems like pretty good quality.

that cork gasket will fail

x2

[hokuten3]

Finished it today. Took me 6 hours, but Ehh its done. Thanks for the help guys!

[Smaay]

With FIPG you want to hand tighten the bolts and nuts down as tight as you can get them with just an extension and no ratchet. Let it sit for 24 hours then go back and torque the bolts down to spec. This will give you the best seal.

this is absolutely NOT how to do this! FIPG will cure within that time and not be set right.