Help!! Smoking like its no tomorrow!, I need help to figure out what it is and how to fix it.. Options

[Tort1llaboy]

Try looking around the internet for information. Whoever you got the kit from, see if they sell the intake and exhaust seals separately and have pictures for comparison.

think i got it now will upload picture tomorrow

[Box]

Wooo!

[VavAlephVav]

when you test the head for warpage you put a metal ruler across the face of the head(where it mates to the head-gasket and block) and then you try to squeeze a feeler gauge under it. If you can fit more than a 0.5 mm feeler under it needs to be resurfaced. So likewise when they say you don't need head bolts unless they are stretched, well they don't need to be very stretched you'd have to measure with a micrometer or something.
but you can get bolts on Rockauto.com for $15 to $20 and even if you have to pay that much more to have them shipped to where you are it shouldn't be too bad. they shouldn't cost $150 unless you're getting head Studs, which perform better but are expensive.

[msk59]

Very valuable information here in this thread. Eddy/box/vanalphvav thanks very much from both of us. These are the things what are called Tricks of the trade that one must know in order to do the work right.

I know a retired Toyota mechanic here in town and i spoke to him after i purchased the car. He replaced the axle and timing belt, water pump and all the seals on that side. He also did the compression check and #1 and #2 cylinder had huge difference between wet and dry, the other two were OK.

Like Tort1llaboy, I will start a thread for step by step and will have question for your gurus.

[VavAlephVav]

the shop that's going to do mine is nervous that they're going to get it apart and Then find out the head or block is cracked, because I bought it from somebody else for all we know it's already got stop-leak in it.
contemplating buying a whole motor, I know where a good rebuilt 5sfe is, but the shipping is going to make the whole thing about $800, but that's rebuilt, cleaned and a header. specially since mine has been cut on to make the camry motor fit he said he'd rather just get the right motor for it.
IDK I was hoping to get some struts and tires too

[Box]

Psssh, find a BEAMS or 1MZ to throw in there.

[Special_Edy]

All you need is a celica oil pan and oil pump pickup to make it a celica 5sfe. The balancing shaft assembly can be tossed in the garbage and the oil supply hole for the balancing shaft assembly must either be welded shut or tapped out and plugged with a bolt. Im sure the shop would do it for free, it saves them the trouble of realigning/shimming the balancing shaft assembly when they put the motor back together.

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: Jul 12, 2014 - 11:16 AM

[Tort1llaboy]

How do i upload pics?

[VavAlephVav]

you need to upload them to a photobucket account, or some site like that. then use the direct links they give you for the pic and copy/paste it into the post with the "insert image" button at the top of the dialog box

and I haven't even been able to find a decent Camry motor assembly and even if you do its from a junk yard and might be OK, or might not. there's a dude on the fb page that pulled his 5s and did a swap then went through and rebuilt the 5s, and he only wants $600 for it. that's what im considering now because it's from a 95 and its sure put together better than an old one from a random Camry.
I'm going to talk to this guy some more and find out what all he actually did to it, but he's got it cleaned and painted and a chrome header and he seems like he knows what he's doing that might be the best deal for me. this is my DD and I don't want to get away from the stock reliability. and if I get a motor I know isn't abused I can put another 300k on this thing without worrying about the motor at all.

This post has been edited by VavAlephVav: Jul 12, 2014 - 7:02 PM

[Tort1llaboy]

this is what i figured of the valve seals



This post has been edited by Tort1llaboy: Jul 12, 2014 - 7:36 PM

[Tort1llaboy]

So far so good

[msk59]

Excellent but more pictures and description, any tricks you learned when got stuck etc., etc.

Thank You.

[Tort1llaboy]

The valves ar now reseated and new valve seals are in place And valves are in place whit the lifters

Did the exhaust side first


Then the Exhaust valves


Then the Innlet side whit valves


And now the valve lifters


Used lots of oil!!

Tools i used to fit the valves


Must say the valve keepers vas a pain at first, but when i got in the groove it was easy

Sorry Msk that i dint show how i reseated the valves and how i cleaned the head.

This post has been edited by Tort1llaboy: Jul 16, 2014 - 4:36 AM

[msk59]

No worries, thanks what chemical you used to make the head so clean. Also was it too difficult to pull the whole engine out? I am tempting to go that route.

[Tort1llaboy]

u can get the engine whit transmision out in abote 2 houers if u are not slaking of i used 2 days because the engine i have is from a spare car that was at the wreackers and thay wear closing when i started do pull it out

I used Something called tix to clean the head. Tix is greeas remover that is watered out 50 50. after that i used pant thiner for the exhaust ports WORKED LIKE A BOSS.
And after cleaning and drying, i oiled everything up whit 10w 40.

This post has been edited by Tort1llaboy: Jul 16, 2014 - 9:12 AM

[Special_Edy]

Some tips-
Did you lap the valves before reinstalling them? You can get valve grinding compound and a suction cup tool at most autoparts stores. You basically smear some of the valve grinding compound on the valve seat and insert the valve(careful not to get it into the valve guides) and use the suction cup to rotate the valve quickly. It will help mate ( or "lap") the two surfaces together for a better seal.

I would suggest a bottle of molybdenum lube, also known as moly lube or engine assembly lube. Its thick and tacky, so it will stay in place until oil has a chance to dissolve it once the motor is running. Oil may be fine since the parts have already broken in but moly lube is always prefered.

From one of the pictures I am unsure whether you kept the valves and lifters in order. Since they have broken into their own respective valve guide or lifter bore you should always reinstall in the same order. If you didnt you will probably be okay, just make sure to check and double check the valve shim clearances. I save old egg cartons to store my valvetrain in when its disassembled, some people just use a sharpie to label the order on each piece.

Anyways, good job getting your hands dirty on one of the scarier areas of automotive repair! Now double check your valve shim clearance!

[Box]

+1 on engine assembly lube, valve lapping and order. Would be a shame to go through so much work only for it to have something go wrong upon reassembly.

[VavAlephVav]

There are several bids on YouTube showing how to lap/reseal the valves

[Tort1llaboy]

yeah i lap/reaseated the valves. and i keept the valve lifters in order i its not my first rodeo. haha.
i have heard some stuff abote the asembly lube, its just for the "brake in". i helped rebuild a cumings disel engine for a boat, and we was told not to use asembly lube, so we dint. But i gues the the 10w 40 will do good work anyways

[Box]

The assembly lube stays on the parts unlike regular oil, that way on the first start-up all of your critical parts aren't dry until oil can reach them.

This post has been edited by Box: Jul 16, 2014 - 2:06 PM