Parasitic Draw on my 1994 Celica ST!! Options

[Noahwhite2014]

So i have purchased a 1994 Toyota Celica ST Hatchback from a friend a week ago, but he's not available now since he moved to another country (which is why he sold it to me). Ive always been into Celica's but never owned one.

Now that i have it, i have noticed a drain on the battery. The battery keeps dying every 2 or 3 days now... I have tested for the parasitic draw, and its between the high 200mA to 300mA range. I have found that upon unplugging the 10A dash light fuse in the fusebox under the hood, the draw drops to under 100mA (ill go try take the fuse out and change from 10A to 200mA so i can see exactly what the draw is and i will let you all know)

I really need help finding out where the short is from because taking out the dash fuse every night and putting it in every morning is a bit cumbersome and doesn't fix the problem, its just dealing with the issue. Hopefully someone knows the entire dash light circuit that can help me! I will check EVERYTHING until i can fix this.

Some extra info:
There was a aftermarket stereo install done prior to me receiving the car, i thought the drain was that, but upon uninstalling it, the draw is still alive and well...
The gauges do not light up and the dimming knob has no effect. (i think this could be the culprit but I'm not sure, let me know if you also think this is it, I'm not sure how to check it though)
I have replaced all the bulbs so i know it isn't the bulbs that are just burnt out)
The brake light, check engine light, highlight indicator, airbag light, seatbelt light (i can't remember if it has one...), turn signals, and door open indicator all work
All my gauges work fine (except it doesn't go down when the car is off, I'm not sure if this is how 6g celicas are, but its not this way on my 2003 toyota corolla... so idk)
The alternator was replaced and the drain is still there.
There are no speakers in the doors and the wires to them are just dangling in the mount (could this be causing the drain? i don't think they ever touch, but maybe its touching the door panel)
Glovebox light does not come on (I don't know if its the bulb or not)
Light in the center compartment does not come on (the one next to the hand brake, again, I'm not sure if its the bulb or not, but i went ahead and took that whole part out so the light is not plugged in anymore, the draw is still there)
The Airbag light is on, (i was going to try reseting it to see if something is actually wrong, or if its just on due to ****ty electrical work) not sure if that has anything to do with the issue I'm having.

If you have ANY information that may be helpful, I am all ears (eyes in this case since i will be reading)!!

Thank you so much in advance!!!
-Noahwhite2014

[Special_Edy]

100ma is still too much, you dont want more than 10-15ma.
There are fuses under the dash to pull too, just realize if you leave the door ajar while testing, it will use some amperage.

[Noahwhite2014]

100ma is still too much, you dont want more than 10-15ma.
There are fuses under the dash to pull too, just realize if you leave the door ajar while testing, it will use some amperage.

Yes I'm trying to get it as low as possible since I'm going to be installing a keyless entry system which i assume will be using a few mA to be functional?

Do you happen to know everything that is included in the dome light circuit?

Thanks!

[Noahwhite2014]

Ive managed to fix the dimmer and instrument panel backlights. The dimmer had a bad SMT resistor which i picked up from radioshack for under $1 and i replaced it. The dimmer then worked properly, But i blew the instrument panel fuse in the process of troubleshooting, I replaced that easily and my LED backlights worked properly! Cant wait to see them at night.

BUT the parasitic draw is still present in the dome light circuit so I'm going to test every load point in the circuit and ill find that short! Im determined to do so. I will update so anyone else with the issue can find help through this thread.