Idling rough when jumping TE1 and E1 |
Idling rough when jumping TE1 and E1 |
Jun 27, 2014 - 10:45 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 13, '12 From Sacramento Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Hey All, I would like to ask for some help. I was trying to check my ignition timing before I went for a smog check. But when I jump TE1 and E1, the car starts idling really rough and would almost die (did one time too). Would anyone know where I should start looking? The car idles and drives perfectly fine. I did take apart my car when I replaced the head gasket. But I had a neighbor was is a mechanic check the camshaft and crankshaft timing. Thank you in advance.
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Jun 29, 2014 - 10:25 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 29, '11 From Haltom City, Texas Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
Jumping te1 and e1 sets the timing to base. The ignition will still advance with rpm increase but it is otherwise locked out to ecu adjustments.
If your base ignition timing(your distributor position) was incorrect, the ecu will automatically adjust the timing to compensate based upon knock sensor and other readings. By jumping the connectors it can no longer do this and the engine may run rough as a result. Make sure you set the base timing, 12degrees Before Top Dead Center is the spec for my federal emission 94 GT, it should be on the emission label under the hood. |
Jun 30, 2014 - 3:18 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 13, '12 From Sacramento Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Thanks for the reply Special_Edy. I really appreciate the thorough explanation. I will be sure to check the base timing. I noticed that in the manual they instruct to check idling rpm with a tachometer connected to the diagnosis port. Do you think reading the in dash tachometer would be sufficient enough? Thanks
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Jun 30, 2014 - 11:25 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 29, '11 From Haltom City, Texas Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
Thanks for the reply Special_Edy. I really appreciate the thorough explanation. I will be sure to check the base timing. I noticed that in the manual they instruct to check idling rpm with a tachometer connected to the diagnosis port. Do you think reading the in dash tachometer would be sufficient enough? Thanks Yeah I wouldnt worry about the rpms, just make sure its idling close to normal speed. The only concern is that as it revs up the timing will advance, so if your idling at 1200 rpm or soelmething you may get an inaccurate base timing. |
Jul 1, 2014 - 2:05 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 13, '12 From Sacramento Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
So I tried to adjust the base timing today. I ensured that my idle rpm was at 800. Then I jumped TE1 and E1, the car would stall no matter what position the distributor was in (I turned the distributor trying to find a position where it wouldn't stall). However, I noticed that if I give it a little gas by holding the throttle a little, it would be okay. However, once I let go of the throttle, the car would immediately stall. Any more ideas?
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Jul 27, 2014 - 7:17 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 13, '12 From Sacramento Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
As an update for anyone else in the future that has this issue. It turns out to be a fairly large vacuum leak.
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: November 27th, 2024 - 1:35 AM |