Red Top Beams cold start issue, im having a bit of a problem any ideas guys? Options

[1soljaslim5]

Seems like the problem wont go away upon cold start this happens it starts yet idles low i gotta push the gas to at least 2k for about 35 seconds
(sorry for text message ringtone)

and it begins dropping low to about 300 and my car begins to rattle ALOT.


but once the engine is all warmed up it idles here and everything goes back to normal.(same vid posted from previous post)


this coldstart is becoming an issue now any ideas guys?

[Bitter]

I know a lot of 7A guys that have this problem too. Check the resistance of the engine coolant temp sensor (2 wire) against specs when it's cold out. I did a lot and never fixed mine, but I also never checked/replaced the sensor. I replaced the IAC and cleaned the throttle multiple times, even reset the throttle zero position to account for wear. No dice. Does the exhaust smell super rich when it's running ****ty without help?

[1soljaslim5]

yea it kind of does and ive cleaned the iscv as well as the throttle body and the maf checked the hoses no leaks and to top it of i got no CEL so i honestly dont know what more to do and i dont wanna go around buying parts that wont solve the problem.so im running out of ideas of what may be causing this.

[richee3]

You said you reset the ECU after you fixed the ISCV issue, right? And just to be clear, it only does this when the engine is cold? Not after it has warmed up?

[1soljaslim5]

Yes at first i thought i had a bad iscv so i replaced it and later found out it was bad wiring so the original iscv was fine i cleaned it as well i resseted the ECU and still same issue upon coldstart it just wants to die so i hold the gas for good 45 secs and let it idle and yes once engine is warm and temp reaches half way it idles normal.

This post has been edited by 1soljaslim5: Nov 26, 2013 - 2:29 PM

[Bitter]

Check the resistance of the ECT against specs and see if it's got a dead spot at low temperatures. Check the IAT as well. Either of those reading colder than it actually is will cause weird problems and never set a light.

[richee3]

I've been putting some thought into this and I can't come up with anything at all. On cold start, your ECU ignores all sensor input and runs on a base map. If anything, your problem should be the other way around where problems start to develop after the engine has warmed up. The only thing I can think of is that it might still be ISCV related. My ISCV is only about half working at the moment and I don't have a code for it, so it has to be pretty bad before the ECU starts to care. Rdyzz did the research and found that the Civic valve will work, and his hasn't had any issues at all so I doubt if it's the Civic valve unless yours was faulty right off the shelf. It would still give you issues after the motor has warmed up though. I suggest unplugging sensors one at a time when the motor is cold to see if any of them make a difference.

[Bitter]

It doesn't ignore ALL sensors, it ignores the O2 sensors for feedback until they're hot enough. It still uses coolant temp, TPS, IAT, and possibly MAP/Baro.

[1soljaslim5]

Well after many days of trying to sort the problem out im still back at square one im experiencing upon start up sputtering and the car runs rich so i had the spark plugs replaced with double platinum denso and still have not solved the issue i once again cleaned the iscv checked all the hoses nope and i began unplugging sensors and grounded the pins for a new code to pop up which is 22 (coolant temp sensor signal) so now could this be the culprit?

[richee3]

I'd replace that sucker. Sounds like Bitter nailed it.

[1soljaslim5]

I'd replace that sucker. Sounds like Bitter nailed it.

any idea where i could possibly get this part??

[richee3]

Any Toyota dealership will have it. Part number is 89422-22030, per ToyoDIY. Costs about $50.

[1soljaslim5]

Any Toyota dealership will have it. Part number is 89422-22030, per ToyoDIY. Costs about $50.

Alright sure thing then ill look into this and keep you guys posted thanks for all the help

[1soljaslim5]

So with all the time and money ive spent im still having the same issue but after countless threads and looking at njccmd's thread
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=69585
i have come across one thing.

can someone please enlighten me on the sensor located on the intake, i seem to be missing it additionally i have a wire that isnt connected to anything my guess is for that vacuum sensor


but not sure but id like to know is that a major part?is it necessary and if so whats the part number? i also have been looking around for the stock airbox and it seems forgmann has a complete air box up for grabs. still waiting on a reply tho.

This post has been edited by 1soljaslim5: Dec 12, 2013 - 1:32 AM

[richee3]

That's a VSV on the intake elbow. It just lets fumes from the charcoal canister into the intake. You should have three small vacuum lines- one going from the throttle body to the fuel pressure regulator, one from the throttle body to the VSV, then one from the VSV to the charcoal canister.

[njccmd2002]

i mounted mine on the firewall, with a piece of aluminum, but i would not think that would be the cause of your problem?



close up pic



cant find the part number on toyodiy. BTW just went back into memory lane, lol.... looking at my pics..

[njccmd2002]

ok a little bit more into TOYODIY, I came up with this part number for the beams

90910-12073, surprisingly enough, there is a part number on ebay, from another toyota. looks similar, but not entirely

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-Toyota-Valve...7d4&vxp=mtr

[1soljaslim5]

cool thanks man but hmmmm well guess ill keep trying but ill get it running perfect soon hopefully still looking for a stock airbox and i also gotta get rid of my cat converter and install a straight pipe but thanks for the help man

[njccmd2002]

lol, yes u need a stock box.. vincent doggy, and

tis wut i did....

[richee3]

Unrelated to the cold start issue, what is your current exhaust setup? You don't want it to be too free flowing.

On topic: the VSV wouldn't cause any high idling issues, but if it's not there and your vac lines are leaking, that could cause it.