Smog failure, High NO, and what I am going to do about it Options

[HaysoosKreesto]

Well, I think I have found the problem through connecting with an old friend (old 6gc.net posts) but I guess I just wanted to post something recent for any other cali native who would suffer the same fate as I did! Embarrassing knowing you've taken good care of your girl and she fails smog.

None the less! I have learned a great deal that can help me preserve her and function more efficiently.

This is my smog test:


This is the code I pulled from her (sorry it isn't orientated upright):


From what I can gather I have these problems to fix:
#1) replace the upstream o2 sensor
#2) check to see if there are any vacuum leaks in the system
#3) clean the engine intake manifold and the tops of the pistons via chemical additives

This is more than likely what is the cause of the failed emissions, because on my previous smog reading (before I realized to use the more proper oil for her and to use higher quality gas) all of her emissions where basically just below the max, but they were all lowered after some TLC.

After some research, another cause of high emissions (although I don't believe this was the cause of mine, however, I am sure it contributed) would be a gunky engine. The buildup of sediments from thousands of miles of use w/o the aid of additives can cause a slowing of performance, and higher emissions because dirty particles are being thrown out of the tailpipe from the stockpile building up in your system!

I will be performing a Berryman regiment on her so she can be as squeeky clean as possible before I take her to get smogged again. At O'Reilly's (formerly Kragen) the 3 step professional fuel system maintenance cleaning kit is $33.85 + tax at the time of this posting, which shockingly is cheaper than Amazon!

If you didn't know, she is a 1998 Toyota Celica GT 2.2L Automatic and her name is Delilah .

/edit: Question: Should I wait on doing the Berryman's until I have to change the oil again? She just got an oil change about 500-1000 miles ago.

This post has been edited by HaysoosKreesto: Jul 23, 2014 - 12:16 PM

[Box]

Here's a good resource page for you: http://www.aircare.ca/repinfo-ere-causes-nox.php

Ehh, as far as fuel system cleaners etc... You'd be better off changing the filter and taking the injectors off and having them flushed and rebuilt if needed. I'm not sure on the 5S, but on my 7A it was fairly easy to remove the fuel rail.

[Special_Edy]

Dont bother cleaning it or changing the air filter, waste of money.
Replace to O2 sensor, the upstream is used to adjust the air to fuel mixture.

If it fails a second time you might try removing the catalytic converter and seeing how badly its plugged up. You need to unbolt the three nuts holding the catalytic converter to the midpipe under the engine. Next remove the 5 bolts holding the heatshield onto the exhaust manifold. Unbolt the 8 or so bolts attaching the exhaust manifold to the engine. Now remove the three or so bolts on the bracket which hold the catalytic converter to the engine block. At this point you should be able to remove the catalytic converter and exhaust manifold assembly. There are three stubborn bolts and two nuts bolting the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold, remove them and separate the two pieces. Now you can look down into the catalytic converter, it should look like a honeycomb. If its is clogged at all you can use a dremmel or grinder to shave off a few fractions of an inch of the catalyst material until the holes are cleared. rinse it out with water and try not to breathe in the dust from grinding. Put it all back together and pat yourself on the back for salvaging a $500-$700 part.

You may also want to check the EGR valve, it opens during the high speed test and lowers the NOx emissions.


BTW, ASM is only for pre OBD2 cars where I live, OBD2 cars are not required to take them(but I have a 94 so I have to)

[Special_Edy]

Dont bother cleaning it or changing the air filter, waste of money.
Replace to O2 sensor, the upstream is used to adjust the air to fuel mixture.

If it fails a second time you might try removing the catalytic converter and seeing how badly its plugged up. You need to unbolt the three nuts holding the catalytic converter to the midpipe under the engine. Next remove the 5 bolts holding the heatshield onto the exhaust manifold. Unbolt the 8 or so bolts attaching the exhaust manifold to the engine. Now remove the three or so bolts on the bracket which hold the catalytic converter to the engine block. At this point you should be able to remove the catalytic converter and exhaust manifold assembly. There are three stubborn bolts and two nuts bolting the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold, remove them and separate the two pieces. Now you can look down into the catalytic converter, it should look like a honeycomb. If its is clogged at all you can use a dremmel or grinder to shave off a few fractions of an inch of the catalyst material until the holes are cleared. rinse it out with water and try not to breathe in the dust from grinding. Put it all back together and pat yourself on the back for salvaging a $500-$700 part.

You may also want to check the EGR valve, it opens during the high speed test and lowers the NOx emissions.


BTW, ASM is only for pre OBD2 cars where I live, OBD2 cars are not required to take them(but I have a 94 so I have to)

[Box]

Can soak the cat in how Dawn water, cleared one out that way before. The exhaust smelled pretty for a minute or two after putting it all back together and starting it up.

[HaysoosKreesto]

Thanks for the response guise!

Sorry for the late response, been all levels of busy lately, but your suggestions are noted and will be used in my little project to pass emissions.

Dont bother cleaning it or changing the air filter, waste of money.
Replace to O2 sensor, the upstream is used to adjust the air to fuel mixture.

If it fails a second time you might try removing the catalytic converter and seeing how badly its plugged up. You need to unbolt the three nuts holding the catalytic converter to the midpipe under the engine. Next remove the 5 bolts holding the heatshield onto the exhaust manifold. Unbolt the 8 or so bolts attaching the exhaust manifold to the engine. Now remove the three or so bolts on the bracket which hold the catalytic converter to the engine block. At this point you should be able to remove the catalytic converter and exhaust manifold assembly. There are three stubborn bolts and two nuts bolting the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold, remove them and separate the two pieces. Now you can look down into the catalytic converter, it should look like a honeycomb. If its is clogged at all you can use a dremmel or grinder to shave off a few fractions of an inch of the catalyst material until the holes are cleared. rinse it out with water and try not to breathe in the dust from grinding. Put it all back together and pat yourself on the back for salvaging a $500-$700 part.

You may also want to check the EGR valve, it opens during the high speed test and lowers the NOx emissions.


BTW, ASM is only for pre OBD2 cars where I live, OBD2 cars are not required to take them(but I have a 94 so I have to)

I figured if the o2 sensor isn't doing the 'trick' the egr would be the next stop. If all else fails, I thank you greatly for the how to for the CAT and will be performing such actions.

Can soak the cat in how Dawn water, cleared one out that way before. The exhaust smelled pretty for a minute or two after putting it all back together and starting it up.

I will soak it in how Dawn water , should it come down it. My old girl can smell for a little, I like it like that.

[HaysoosKreesto]

Check it, parts came yesterday



And this is how pretty she is, I love her.

[Special_Edy]

Dawn wont fix it, by having a bad O2 sensor you have created a lean/rich running condition. Extra fuel will have gone unburnt out the exhaust. It then lands on the red hot catalytic converter and combusts there. This causes the catalytic converter to melt down.
You cant rinse away platinum and other heavy metal which were molten and fused at 2000+ degrees with hand soap, sorry doesnt work that way. If its just dirty with carbon then I could understand this working, but I suggest you remove the cataclytic converter and make sure the catalyst material isnt melted and entirely mucked over. If it is you will need to grind away the top fractions of an inch or fork over nearly $1000 to have it replaced

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: Jul 27, 2014 - 11:13 AM

[Box]

The one that I cleaned with Dawn was plugged with carbon deposits, the honeycomb matrix hadn't melted. If anything if it is melted having cleaned it will allow you to see where you need to grind away.

This post has been edited by Box: Jul 27, 2014 - 7:52 PM

[HaysoosKreesto]

Out with the Old, in with the New.



You might be able to guess which one is which...

Also I changed out my spark plug wires today and I noticed on the position 1 spark plug, it was incredibly more dirty than the others.

As pictured here



The old spark plug wire also had a malfunction in that, when I pulled it out of the car, the rubber tip of it came off and was stuck INSIDE of the spark plug well and I said... "****" lol

I fished it out with a bent piece of wire and all was good, car runs like a champ still.

[HaysoosKreesto]

Small update, after monitoring and clearing codes, cleaning and doing everything EXCEPT the catalytic converter, I bite the bullet and got a new Cat direct from Toyota parts.

Why you may ask? Why did I not take apart the cat and drill a small amount out? Why didn't I clear the code, drive it 50 miles, put 94 octane in the gas tank and then get it smogged?

Simple. It was throwing a p0420, and after examining it after taking it out (which by the way SpecialEdy is NOT as easy as you made it sound) it was just too far gone to be at all salvaged. Instead of trying to drill out the fraction of an inch myself with a dremel, I just bought a new one and hope to save my other Cat.

To quote a man I work with "Sometimes there's no way around it, you just have to bite the bullet and do it."

I will get it smogged and post results for future reference to any who have thrown these particular codes

p0133
p0420

/edit: also, in reference to the Berryman's regiment I referenced earlier, OMG it is amazing. Here is why
#1 No more sticky pedal
#2 It feels as though I have instant response at the throttle
#3 The sound of the engine is overall healthier (by which I mean it sounds a bit bassier and as if it runs smoother)
#4 This is probably placebo from spending money on upgrading numerous parts on her but, after the regiment she feels 100k younger.
#5 freeway entrances have a smooth acceleration, not sluggish or in a slight struggle to go the necessary speed in a quick distance
#6 It's just cool watching black gunk ooze out of the air intake

Thank you for your support, I appreciate this site greatly and hope this small contribution can help someone in the future.

This post has been edited by HaysoosKreesto: Aug 27, 2014 - 1:20 AM