CV Axle Torque specs, how much do you Torque the axle nut? Options

[VavAlephVav]

my front left has been growling a bit and today the wind blew and I felt the whole car rock. When I got home and put it on the jack I could move the whole front wheel back and forth with my hand.
This is the same wheel bearing I just did in December when I slid on the ice and smacked that wheel straight against a square concrete curb. We replaced the wheel bearing, ball joint, and CV axle.
I wonder if there is something wrong with the spindle itself and they've got a couple 6th gens up at the salvage yard right now but they're both STs, in know the rear hub is different but is the front knuckle going to be the same for ST and GT?
Taking a ball joint apart at the salvage yard sounds like fun...
also when you do these axles what do you torque it to?

tys



the specs I've seen for the Axle nut are 149 or 159 ft-lbs - Is this what you guys tighten it to? or do you just do it without measuring it?
a friend told me he had heard people say that they don't torque it but just go hand tight and then put the pin in it?
I can't seem to remember what I torqued it to when we did it last time even though I know we had a torque wrench and used it on all the bolts for the ball-joint.


This post has been edited by VavAlephVav: Jul 31, 2014 - 4:47 PM

[richee3]

Front knuckle is the same between the GT and ST, if you decide to pick one up from the salvage yard. Take plenty of tools and PB blaster!

[VavAlephVav]

Great thanks



the specs I've seen for the Axle nut are 149 or 159 ft-lbs - Is this what you guys tighten it to? or do you just do it without measuring it?
a friend told me he had heard people say that they don't torque it but just go hand tight and then put the pin in it?
I can't seem to remember what I torqued it to when we did it last time even though I know we had a torque wrench and used it on all the bolts for the ball-joint.



This post has been edited by VavAlephVav: Jul 31, 2014 - 4:47 PM

[VavAlephVav]

I have determined that whoever told my friend that torqueing the axle nut was not a big deal was ****ing with him...

I threw the whole assembly I got from the salvage yard on, ball joint and all.
so I went to press out the bearing from the old one so I can get my return credit for it and have one on hand in case I need another in the future.
When we took the dust cover off the spindle fell out into my hand.







all of the vids I checked out show them torqueing the **** out of that bolt as a pretty big deal.

but this guy is my fav
if you remember that movie Snatch with the Irish gyspies nobody could understand.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gc07rq83x-E

[Special_Edy]

As tight as you can get it with a 3-6 ft breaker bar

Had to jump up and down on a 9ft section of drill pipe the first time I took my cv axle out

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: Aug 4, 2014 - 1:15 AM

[DST94]

When I replaced my axles for the first time I had to use a 3" breaker bar and a 5" section of exhaust pipe pinned to the ground while I put the car in gear and "drove" forward so the damn nut would break loose. You can also go to a shop and use their sexy air tools to break the nut off. That's how I did the second nut.

[VavAlephVav]

I've managed to break it loose with a screw driver lodged in the rotor slots and a breaker bar. even at the junkyard, and I just took the whole knuckle/hub assembly including the ball-joint and slapped it on.
I think my problem was that we didn't torque it down tight enough in the first place, the spec is something like 150 ft*lb. which is about as high as your standard 18" torque wrench goes.
this time I cranked the **** out of it, then drove a couple miles, then torqued it again just to be sure

[Lamont]

The key is having muscles girlie men