Teh Official "Dude Where's My Forum?" Thread, Brought to you by the minds of Box, and her fiancée, Lorelei Options

[richee3]

It helps that I’ve got welding rods sitting around. I’m sure Jordan had some good tips for breaking them loose too.

[Box]

My tip is to move to the south where that **** isn't a problem.

[Bitter]

Could be a bad brake hose too.

[SwissFerdi]

Do you guys use power bleeders? I always dread doing brake or clutch fluid as I can never find help in a decent timeframe.

In other sad news, broke a t-stat housing bolt in my Miata. Off to buy better vise grips, and maybe a drill. In brief research it seems easy-out bits may fail?

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Mar 14, 2018 - 2:19 AM

[narly_charley]

Do you guys use power bleeders? I always dread doing brake or clutch fluid as I can never find help in a decent timeframe.

In other sad news, broke a t-stat housing bolt in my Miata. Off to buy better vise grips, and maybe a drill. In brief research it seems easy-out bits may fail?

I don't. I use the "one person" method by putting a 1/4" vinyl tube over the bleeder and run the hose up above the bleeder. The other end of the tube goes into a bottle with a hole drilled in the top of the cap to run the tube through. You just throw some brake fluid in the bottom of the bottle (can be old or opened brake fluid so you don't waste the new). You then open up the bleeder and then go press on the brakes until all of the air or old fluid (if you're flushing) comes out into the bottle. I don't have a vacuum system to use, so this works just great if you don't have an extra leg handy.

[SwissFerdi]

I don't. I use the "one person" method by putting a 1/4" vinyl tube over the bleeder and run the hose up above the bleeder. The other end of the tube goes into a bottle with a hole drilled in the top of the cap to run the tube through. You just throw some brake fluid in the bottom of the bottle (can be old or opened brake fluid so you don't waste the new). You then open up the bleeder and then go press on the brakes until all of the air or old fluid (if you're flushing) comes out into the bottle. I don't have a vacuum system to use, so this works just great if you don't have an extra leg handy.

Well...sh!t...thank you...I was doing something similar with the exception of using a non-sealed container, keeping the end of the tube in fluid. I was, I guess wrongly, under the impression that the pedal must be pumped while the bleeder valve is opened and closed until no more bubbles appear. I didn't know this could be done alone if the container/bottle is air-tight, which is what I think you are saying. I usually put the container on the floor because I couldn't find a way to elevate it. The learning continues...

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Mar 14, 2018 - 10:56 AM

[narly_charley]

I don't. I use the "one person" method by putting a 1/4" vinyl tube over the bleeder and run the hose up above the bleeder. The other end of the tube goes into a bottle with a hole drilled in the top of the cap to run the tube through. You just throw some brake fluid in the bottom of the bottle (can be old or opened brake fluid so you don't waste the new). You then open up the bleeder and then go press on the brakes until all of the air or old fluid (if you're flushing) comes out into the bottle. I don't have a vacuum system to use, so this works just great if you don't have an extra leg handy.

Well...sh!t...thank you...I was doing something similar with the exception of using a non-sealed container, keeping the end of the tube in fluid. I was, I guess wrongly, under the impression that the pedal must be pumped while the bleeder valve is opened and closed until no more bubbles appear. I didn't know this could be done alone if the container/bottle is air-tight, which is what I think you are saying. I usually put the container on the floor because I couldn't find a way to elevate it. The learning continues...

No problem! It does NOT need to be air tight. You just need to make sure that the tubing bend goes ABOVE the bleeder so that the air goes up at the top. I drilled mine to be almost exactly the same outside diameter of the tubing so that the tube didn't fly out of the bottle every time I moved it. Watch this video (link will take you to where you need to start). I really like this ChrisFix guy, he does a VERY good job at showing how to do things.

https://youtu.be/n1NvtUwfRJc?t=6m35s

This post has been edited by narly_charley: Mar 14, 2018 - 11:55 AM

[SwissFerdi]

No problem! It does NOT need to be air tight. You just need to make sure that the tubing bend goes ABOVE the bleeder so that the air goes up at the top. I drilled mine to be almost exactly the same outside diameter of the tubing so that the tube didn't fly out of the bottle every time I moved it. Watch this video (link will take you to where you need to start). I really like this ChrisFix guy, he does a VERY good job at showing how to do things.

https://youtu.be/n1NvtUwfRJc?t=6m35s

You are not the hero I deserve, but the one I need. Great video and thank you for the sage advice. Have an e-round.



This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Mar 14, 2018 - 3:47 PM

[Box]

I use a homemade vacuum chamber made out of a wasabi peas can and some aquarium tubing along with a Shop Vac, f*ck spending money when you can make it yourself.

That and it works way better, easier, and faster than any kind of dinky power bleeder I've come across.

[Bitter]

I use the 1 gallon fluid evacuator at work with a bit of rubber tube on the end. I build some suction with the bleeder open and if it won't pull fluid I just pump the pedal and it'll bleed it out that way with on person. The key is to NEVER do full strokes to the floor with an older car, you might run the C shaped seals inside the master over some rough areas inside the bore that haven't seen a seal in 20 years. When that happens it can flip the seal or damage it's edges and cause issues with poor pedal.


My accidental gopro came, it's a Hero HD 1080. The OG GoPro. I found out I can buy a breakout board for the connector on the back and hookup a stereo mic externally which is pretty awesome. That'll let me retain the waterproof case and not have **** for sound too. I just need to cough up the $40 for the breakout board, get a stereo mic, and a stereo mic pigtail with a female TRS connector on it. I can also wire up a remote turn on/turn off with remote status LED from that board too. Pretty nifty! (and a bunch other stuff like if I wanted a remote monitor setup off the analog video output that's possible as well and I think also remote power too)

[Box]

Or just do it to the floor and if it does it then the master needed replaced anyway, at least for my personal cars I rather blow a seal sitting still than getting into the brakes driving the car(which happened once, never again). For Mr. or Ms. don't brake then sure.

So going to do something different with my hair this weekend(if it gets here in time) since purple on the ends just isn't enough.

[Bitter]

[Box]

Not quite, but on the right track. If the Olaplex gets here going to do another 20 bleach on the ends, hopefully that's all that's needed to get it down to blonde, then do purple and teal in alternating sections. Because favourite colours. Only did a single 20 bleach the first time, but my hair is so dark it only took it to a strawberry blonde. Even though the dye took it wasn't overly vibrant like I wanted and it's fading way faster than it should(had already reapplied and it's faded again), so now that I've conditioned it back to where it feels like it did before bleaching figured will take it down more so the colours come out better and last longer. The Olaplex helps reduce the damage done by bleaching and can also help repair the hair as well, even though the bleach used is professional grade and wasn't all that damaging compared to others. I may end up doing a dark rainbow kind of deal though with purple, teal, blue, and black at some point. At any rate for one it's something I want to do anyway, but Easter with my father's side of the family is coming up and I want to ruffle their feathers as much as possible.

[SwissFerdi]

I use the 1 gallon fluid evacuator at work with a bit of rubber tube on the end. I build some suction with the bleeder open and if it won't pull fluid I just pump the pedal and it'll bleed it out that way with on person. The key is to NEVER do full strokes to the floor with an older car, you might run the C shaped seals inside the master over some rough areas inside the bore that haven't seen a seal in 20 years. When that happens it can flip the seal or damage it's edges and cause issues with poor pedal.

Good to know. The LE's master is original AFAIK and she's getting SS lines soon, so I must remember that. The Celica got a new master when the pedal went to the floor under hard braking, not fun. On that note, the bleed was a breeze with the bottle elevated, but the pedal still isn't firm. Turns out the puddle of Liquid Wrench under the pax drum grew after the bleed and...it's pissing fluid out of the drum. So TIL correct bleeding procedure and that brake cylinders are a thing, which I will be replacing if I can manage to fight the drum cover off. Shame I had to spend on a MC but at least it's one less thing to fail.

[Box]

Well deal fell through on my brother trading the Miata for that FZ-1, after the guy rode all the way from Panama? Florida to his house in Snead Alabama apparently he's misplaced the title during moving around at some point. The guy was cool about it and took all blame for the trade not going through because of it. So now instead my brother is going to buy a new old stock 2017 Yamaha R3 instead at a pretty big discount from a local dealer, so at least now he'll be on a 40 something horsepower 300cc instead of an 150 horsepower 1,000cc. That and being new there's nothing to worry about, has a warranty, and being a smaller, lighter, and less powerful bike there's no chance of getting in over his head. I still rather him not want a bike at all, but I rather him be on something brand new that isn't overly powerful and is easier to control. Sigh, I guess that's where we're so different. He's always been Mr. No Fear and jumps right in where I'm always calculating risk before wading in or running away in the opposite direction. I will say I've had a fraction of the injuries or financial losses he's had though, so it's paying off for me.

[Bitter]

Honestly a 300CC bike won't last him a year, better off just getting a 600 and getting his jimmies all rustled.

[SwissFerdi]

Well, you say that, but I'm actually still happy with less than half of that. Then again, I like Miatas because they are underpowered.

[Box]

The R3 is plenty quick for a bike(in my opinion anyway), they hit 60 in less than 6 seconds which is going to feel a lot faster on a bike than a car. That and for what he's going to use it for, backroads and around town, I'd think a smaller and lighter bike would be more fun even though it's not as powerful. He's getting a really good deal on it, like $1,500 off a brand new bike just because it's a leftover from 2017. I like Miatas because they're small and light, adequate power would be nice in addition. Though the NB2 feels to be a lot more adequate than the NA6, I imagine the NC2/3 or ND would be enough to make me happy stock.

[Bitter]

But Miata's don't have the right firing order, that was the whole reason you got the Firebird with LT-1!

[Box]

They're just entirely short four cylinders to make my ears happy. As far as the LT-1 over a LS1 car which I suppose is what you're referencing it's a lot more to do with the looks of the car, that and getting the hardtop. The LS1 cars are too aggressive for my tastes, and no LS1 Trans Ams had a hardtop only base models and Formulas. That and there's no easy and inexpensive way of making the headlights decent on the LS1 cars like there is with the LT-1 cars, since the LS1 cars use those weird tiny sealed beams. I'd almost be more inclined towards the LS1 Camaro truth be told, but even it's meh in comparison for me. I bought what I did because that's exactly how I wanted a fourth gen. If money weren't a concern I'd just LS7 swap it and convert my Borg Warner T-56 to work with it, that and the IRS conversion that just came out because why not I'm rich now.

Well he rode his new R3 to the next town and back and all went well, so that's good. Of course he bought a high visibility jacket and pants, the high visibility Snell rated helmet is on the way though he used the one from when he had his V Star 650. May even do some red reflector tape on the helmet depending on if it's reflective or just bright yellow. Just helped with removing the fairing to put in a Sylvania ZEVO 194 for the DRL in the front, I think he's planning on buying a Stebel Nautilus air horn to put on it as well. That and maybe do LED or HID for the low beam and leave the high beam halogen so then there's stark colour contrast right next to each other to also help with being seen. Thankfully traffic around here isn't all that bad, so hopefully by making him as visible and loud as possible nothing bad will ever happen.