Teh Official "Dude Where's My Forum?" Thread, Brought to you by the minds of Box, and her fiancée, Lorelei Options

[Box]

I'd like to think it was for weight reduction. Knowing what they need in terms of maintenance and upkeep via my brother I'm not sure I'd want one. I forget how often he says they need stripped down in order to check and tighten all the bolts on the carbon fiber monocoque, but it's fairly often. That aside they seem like fun and a great car to drive, mid-engine lightweight RWD with dual clutch.

[Box]

Did a throttle reset on the Audi, much better. Apparently it has some kind of adaptation feature that learns and adapts to how it's driven over time; it can desensitize the accelerator, cause rev hang, and even limit the throttle opening to 75% even when you're flooring it. It was doing all of those since now it doesn't rev hang anywhere near as bad, the throttle is more sensitive, and it does seem quicker when you get on it and the turbo blow off is louder. I think once he gets the APR tune for it it won't be all that bad for DBW, since the BTR tune for the Genesis made a world of difference. That and the extra 30 hp and 60 ft lbs of torque more or less across the entire rev range wouldn't hurt either.

[Box]

Found a really interesting site on motor oils that rates them from best to worst based on testing data: https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20...r-test-ranking/

[Bitter]

I skimmed, good read, might go back to 5W-40 Valvoline Syn.

[Box]

What's surprising to me is one of the best off the shelf oils according to that is Quaker State. Then again Shell bought Pennzoil and Quaker State back in the early 2000's, more surprising in that same regard is how low Rotella T6 is rated even though everyone across the internet swears by it. At 67,804 psi that puts it in halfway in the modest protection rating. Which I thought I was cheating myself using SuperTech Full Synthetic, but at 84,570 psi that puts it in the upper end in the good protection rating. Of course if money was no issue then the AmsOil Signature would be the way to go, but the Mobil 1 Euro and Advanced Full Synthetic, Quaker State Ultimate Durability, Pennzoil Euro, Valvoline Full Synthetic High Mileage and Modern Engine, and NAPA Full Synthetic seem to be the best "off the shelf" options that're fairly affordable. Definitely changes my outlook on oils that're out there, I need to remember to show my brother since he's been using the Rotella T6 in most everything.

[richee3]

I recently learned that Rotella changed their formula and hasn’t been the same oil that everyone still praises. Which is too bad, really, considering how many people are still using it based on a reputation.

[bloodMoney]

I recently learned that Rotella changed their formula and hasn’t been the same oil that everyone still praises. Which is too bad, really, considering how many people are still using it based on a reputation.

Go on...

[NgoFcukinWay]

That reminds me... Supra needs an oil change...

[richee3]

Go on...

You’ll have to ask Skyler the specifics, but he put his homework into oil when he was having all of the turbo issues. He’s the one that let me know they changed it it the last couple of years. Kinda sucks because the last several oil changes I’ve done in the Celica, 5 qts of Rotella was cheaper than 5 qts of Castrol so that’s what I’ve used. Going back to Castrol after what he was telling me.

[Box]

I recently learned that Rotella changed their formula and hasn’t been the same oil that everyone still praises. Which is too bad, really, considering how many people are still using it based on a reputation.

Tell me about it, I'm just glad I came across it before using it myself. Next time I need oil I'll be looking towards the ones I mentioned specifically.

[SwissFerdi]

I'm surprised the Miata forum hasn't picked that up, they froth for T6. When I was only changing the Celica's oil I used GTX exclusively, it just felt good for some reason. Then I got cheap and went for a good deal.

[Box]

Because anything that goes against the Miata circle jerk is instant heresy and gets you crucified. Sorta like how the Motorcraft XT-M5-QS is god's gift to your tranny and anyone who dares speak otherwise is a damned heathen. Or how the Miata is Jesus Christ in car form and any ill spoken words even though they're undeniable truths gets you sent to the innermost circles of Dante's Inferno.

[navseal345]

Holy shot that's a lot of reading.

What is the short story?

Someone should sticky that link.

[Box]

Holy shot that's a lot of reading.

What is the short story?

Someone should sticky that link.

A lot of the stuff is explaining the methodology to the testing and rating, and every aspect pertaining to motor oil you'd ever want to know. About 1/4 way down it starts listing oils from best to worst in terms of wear protection rating based on those tests.

This post has been edited by Box: May 2, 2018 - 8:54 PM

[NgoFcukinWay]

OH yeah. just remembered that I have a wholesale account with Amsoil, too. lol which honestly isn't that hard to get....

[Box]

Get all that AmsOil. Well until I have the money to justify the difference, the 5 quarts of Quaker State Ultimate Durability for $20 at Wal Mart seems more tempting. That or the Valvoline and Mobil 1 which is like $23 for 5 quarts. I think I saw something on the AmsOil site about getting 25% off or free shipping, but still even then that's a big difference in cost. Maybe if I were hardcore track racing, or maybe if it were an expensive engine, or especially if I was actually driving the damn thing at all... Bleh just need to get over it and sell it, keep waiting hoping things will get better and it just keeps getting worse and if anything I'm just short changing myself time I can drive any manual at all...

[NgoFcukinWay]

From my understanding with Amsoil is that they're rated to last at least 10K miles and all you need to do is swap out the oil filter every 3K miles or so and then just top off whatever oil gets wasted assuming you relocate the filter to a reasonable position to minimize waste.

I'm gonna give it a stab with both cars. Been wanting to relocate the oil filters and add a cooler either way.

[narly_charley]

I'll stick to my Pennzoil Ultra and Fram Ultra filters at 5K mile (7K if I'm lazy) OCI's.

[Box]

From my understanding with Amsoil is that they're rated to last at least 10K miles and all you need to do is swap out the oil filter every 3K miles or so and then just top off whatever oil gets wasted assuming you relocate the filter to a reasonable position to minimize waste.

I'm gonna give it a stab with both cars. Been wanting to relocate the oil filters and add a cooler either way.

Mobil 1 has a 10K filter and now a 20K filter I think, I believe K&N has a 10K filter as well. The AmsOil Signature says it'll last 25,000 miles, or one year. Which the thing with that much mileage between changes most cars will burn a fair amount, so topping it off rejuvenates what's there. I dunno, would just have to do oil analysis with a given oil and use to feel 100% comfortable using more than 7-10K.

[Box]

Oh yeah, in other news remembered to show my brother that site and now he's ditching the T6. Which partly that information and I think he was tired of how it comes in a gallon jug and both the Audi and Genesis takes 5 quarts, so going with any of those other oils it comes in one 5 quart jug and it's cheaper than the T6.