Teh Official "Dude Where's My Forum?" Thread, Brought to you by the minds of Box, and her fiancée, Lorelei Options

[Bitter]

It only happens at higher speeds and over very smooth roads or the tar crack filler, the Z2's did it as well but not nearly as loudly as the Z3's. It is pretty hilarious, going over about 40ish I can hear it much more, I'll have to pay attention at lower speeds too now. The first time I heard it with the 2's I was very worried because 'what's this strange noise an hour away from home on some back road behind a chemical plant!?!?' but once I realized what it was I found it to be hilarious and welcomed it. It's from the unconnected voids in the tread compressing air and 'popping' as the seal is released while the tire is rolling. Sounds like pulling suction cups off a counter or like a cartoon octopus.

[Box]

Can we call your car the octopus now?

[Box]

Hmm, at first I liked the NC2/3 front end more but the more I look at them I think I might like the NC1 more. I think it's because the more I look at it the more I see the NC2/3 as some kind of RX-8 and S2000 emulation just for the sake of trying to make it less cute. That and maybe because the NC1 takes more after the NA styling(90's Mazda styling in general) and that's seen in the dash which didn't change through the years, so the interior goes better with the NC1.

This post has been edited by Box: Sep 4, 2019 - 2:28 PM

[Bitter]

Yes, my car does suck.


It's so much worse over smooth cement now, comically bad. Also my cat converter seems to be getting weak but it's not dead yet.

[Box]

Just gives an excuse to go with a high flow Magnaflow?

OMGERD FIBRO FOG...

This post has been edited by Box: Sep 4, 2019 - 10:44 PM

[Bitter]

Pretty sure the OEM is fairly high flow already but I'll probably go Magnaflow, though I want to see how much more those metallic core converters are as they're supposedly more robust in handling abuse.

But really none of it matters anyways.
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/...onverter-face-/

[Box]

Yeah most all OBDII cars it's a wash, unless you're pushing big power and even then it's like 1% if that.

For what it's worth I hear metal core is better for turbo applications since they won't break and shatter like ceramic, also the metal core converters are cheaper than ceramic. Can get some of the universal metal core MagnaFlow for under $100. Flowmaster ones are even cheaper I think.

[Bitter]

The old saying goes ' if it's got tits or tires it's trouble'. You're just looking for trouble now LOL

[Box]

I always thought it was "If it's got testes or tires it's trouble."

[Bitter]

Both, both is right.

[Box]

Haha, "If it's got testes, tits, or tires it's trouble." There we go.

Ohh, so they added the S2000 to Gran Turismo Sport as well as the 1.8 '90 Silvia. Of course I'd really like the S2000, go figure. It's like Miata Plus, yet to me it seems a good bit more stable than the NA6 Miata. Which the S2000 wheelbase is like 4-5" longer so that could be a part of it, in addition to wider wheels. That's one thing I might like about the NC more than the NA/NB since its wheelbase is 2" longer, so in addition to wider wheels it should feel less twitchy. And apparently you can go 17x9 if you get the perfect offset of +48mm and run 225 series tires, otherwise you'll have to roll the fenders and quarters. Booo. If it weren't for the crappy tire selection in 16's I'd just find some FD RX-7 wheels since they're really light 16x8 and being Mazda wheels don't have to worry about hub rings and getting conical lugs.

[Box]

Well, he finally sold LeTurD and it's off to a new home. Going to be weird not seeing it for awhile, but at least it seems like the guy wants to get it to a point of usable versus just smashing through garage doors into my car. Now he just needs to sell the Durango and then all the useless eyesores will be gone.

[SwissFerdi]

More stable, LOL. Yup, Stooks are known for stability. In the Worst Day thread, somebody says “go 10-15 slower” in rainy curves. I laugh at (and through) wet corners in either Miata.

I used to love Gran Turismo, but after any good sim like Assetto Corsa, all the cars just feel understeery.

[Box]

I know there's the reputation of S2000 snap oversteer, but I guess like in the instance of MR cars it's more driver error than anything. Unless for some reason GT Sport completely got it wrong on the S2000, but based on how close the Miata is to real life I don't see why it'd be any different. If I had to guess it's a combination of inexperience with RWD and LSD that gives the S2000 the snap oversteer reputation more than anything, that or perhaps botching shifts or cheaping out on tires. I know I've seen plenty of posts about people spinning Miatas with LSD and yet there's no Miata snap oversteer mythos, go figure. **** the idiot that was wanting to buy the Firebird totaled a Miata the week before by doing exactly such, being stupid and inexperienced in the rain spun it off into a ditch. Which is why I refused to sell the Firebird to him, if he couldn't handle a Miata there's no way in Hell he could handle the Firebird which will bite you from time to time even when you're doing it all right because of the clutch LSD and SRA.

[Box]

Ahh ok, like I figured: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-talk-1/sn...2/#post17925652

I guess that's why I didn't have any issues, since I try to be as smooth and gentle with all my inputs as humanly possible and I sure as hell don't suddenly change inputs during a corner. I think some cars are just more forgiving of bad inputs than others. The Miata is about as forgiving at RWD cars get, yes a delicate touch it rewards you and yes it acts out if you really botch it but it does so in a controllable manner. You can deliberately drive bad in the name of RWD shenanigans and nothing bad happens in the Miata, unless you just suck entirely.

[Bitter]

That's a good chunk of why I like the solid bushings in the back of my Celica, the rear suspension was designed to toe the tires somewhat when loaded but when you lost that compression they went back to how they were unloaded and made any mistake you were in the process of making that much worse. It would snap HARD but always was controllable, now it's less of a snap and more of a lapse of traction followed by a smack in the side of the head as it grabs again just as hard and it takes a stupid unsmooth input to cause it.



Bushing #9 would allow the whole trailing arm to toe in or out some under load or unloaded. It looks solid in the photo but it's actually got two voids on either side of it that let the center pivot side to side some. That pivot toes the whole arm in when loaded and lets it back to neutral when unloaded and I suppose if pulled upon by the tire enough (limited by the squish in the rear and upper lateral links which contain the actual camber and toe adjusters) it could allow toe out. Now imagine you're hard into a corner and tripod a bit as you're under steering then lift throttle some to try to slow down or hit the brakes. The rear end unloads and that toe in that was helping you turn more is suddenly gone so you go from some under steer to wanting to pirouette around the heaviest part of the car which is now the front axle due to weight transfer. Adding a stiffer rear sway bar helped it feel better upto the limit but once I over-drove the tires at the time it was instantly wanting to under steer then rotate on over steer. Made for some interesting corners and snap corrections. Now it's essentially idiot proof as the tires all stay pointed where they are supposed to go. The front LCA rear bushings had squish built into them in a similar fashion and deformed in a similar way under braking and acceleration which also made handling less predictable. The biggest thing I noticed was I no longer had to constantly make small corrections, sawing the steering back and forth, while going around a big sweeping curve. I just turn the wheel and hold it making small corrections in angle as the road turns more or less, like a real car.

This post has been edited by Bitter: Sep 7, 2019 - 5:33 PM

[Bitter]

https://youtu.be/chVuhYM6rng?t=299

LOL.

[Box]

I take prevention is better than the cure approach.

This post has been edited by Box: Sep 7, 2019 - 6:31 PM

[Bitter]

Cure makes the car much more fun and predictable.

[Box]

I was talking about driving technique in regards to (snap)oversteer and understeer, but changing parts is like some kind of cure that's also prevention of future problems.

I know I'm far from being the best driver out there, but I try and do the best I can off what I know from professional drivers and vehicle physics.

This post has been edited by Box: Sep 7, 2019 - 11:01 PM