Code 12, 14, Anybody know how to repair connectors or where to get new ones? Options

[VavAlephVav]

I've had problems getting my 1994 5sfe to start lately. it started a couple months ago, it would randomly not start for a few minutes but then would fire right up.
I have a headgasket leak and so we assumed it was coolant getting into the cylinders, as it would often only do it first thing in the morning and be just fine the rest of the day.

but lately its gotten to the point it doesn't want to start at all. for a while it would always crank up and fire, when it was cold it might die the first couple of times but would always fire right back up. I would keep it at a high idle until it warmed up and then it would be fine.
then I started getting CEL 12, and 14. so I went to the salvage yard and found a nice ignition coil, distributor and Igniter. in fact the coil is a Toyota that not only ohms out, but looks good too(not burnt). my old coil ohmed out right but had a big split in it. I also picked up 2 different igniters(they're small and fit in my pocket).
and when I put it together it fired right up and worked just great for a couple of days but then began doing it again. I took the dizzy back and picked out another one and it fired up the first time but then died and won't start again. I'm betting that first thing in the morning ill be able to start it up, and if I keep it at high idle until it warms up it will run.

granted im getting distributors and igniters out of pick-n-pull, but I just need to figure out for sure What really needs to be replaced before I go buying brand new ones.
from the codes it's giving me it could be any of those parts or the ECU itself. I have been checking the ECU pins with the volt meter of the ones that I can test with the ign ON. but I have not conclusively been able to prove that it is bad.
tomorrow ill disconnect the plugs and check resistance readings from the ECU plugs to check the wires.

code 12 says - No "Ne" or "G" signal to ECU - check distributor, ECU, circuit wiring, and Starter signal circuit.
does that mean the Circuit Opening Relay could have something to do with it?

code 14 is _ no "IGF" signal to ECU - check igniter, ignition coil,

granted the headgasket is pretty bad, if the motor is cold and I crank it but cant get it to start there is already pressure on the radiator cap just from Trying to start it.
If I do get it to start tomorrow I'm going to stop-leak it just so I can eliminate the lack of compression from my problem.
I think though something else electrical has actually failed.

any Ideas? ty

This post has been edited by VavAlephVav: Aug 8, 2014 - 3:37 PM

[VavAlephVav]

...Good Times right here buddy
when I test the pickup coils on the dizzy at points NE+ and NE-, G- and G, I can see the ohm readings just like I should.
when I plug the dizzy back in and then go and unplug the ECU and test between the same wires that run straight from there to the dizzy I get OL on each circuit.
which means I either have a break in the wires or in the plug, normally you'd say it should be in the plug, but my wirelimb is real ratty in some spots so I test the wires one at a time just to be sure.

Like this

using a small 14 gauge wire inserted into the dizzy plug and then to a jumper clip that is attached to the body ground in front of the battery

then I go to the ecu and use my continuity meter with one lead clipped to the bracket the ecu is mounted to and the other poked into the wire im testing one at a time.





and sure enough I get continuity through Each of the four wires. which means the wire is good, it must be that the connectors are gaped out and don't fit tight on the pins of the distributor.


looking at the plug this way the actual pins of the dizzy slip into the right side of the connecter, and I was putting my 14ga wire into the left side. and after I did I plugged it back in and was able to read the ohms of the pickup coils at the ecu plug like I should

which just means the plug connection is too gaped out to always make good contact. and the kids at Toyota are like "you want a what?"
so I could go and get one from picknpull that's still going to be 20 years old.
but does anybody know if maybe I can just poke those things back into place better with something?

[Spider77]

You can remove the pins and adjust them, but since the connector is old as hell, you might as well replace that too.

[VavAlephVav]

ya the locking mechanism is broke so im going to grab a couple at picknpull but ill still have to take them apart just to make sure the terminals are clean and tight.
Ive seen Richee's thread on how to take it apart, but this weatherproof one is a bit different. I may have to grab a couple extras to practice on
and they make a special tool for unlocking the terminals but none of the auto parts stores carry it in stock id have to order it somewhere.

[VavAlephVav]

btw I found your old thread, and when I called Toyota for the plugs they said I needed to find a repair manual to get the part number for that plug. and I found it on a Toyota mud site.
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/WireHarnessRepairParts.php

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/pdf/WireHarness...al/femalewa.pdf

this one is a female weather proof 4-pin 90980-11150

[kevin311]

I had a frustrating experience with code 12 too, very aggregating. I just got te code again recently, although intermittent, and am convinced the plug is the problem this time. I just replaced both dizzy and igniter ($400 new) in September. Hope that fixes your issue!

[VavAlephVav]

I just got it running yesterday. I ordered a cheap dizzy from rock auto for $100, and that still didn't do it but I got a used ECU from a guy parting his out.
And it fired right up
Pics in this thread. http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=93344

Code 12 is either the dizzy, the connectors and wires, or the ECU. And the circuit opening relay is mounted on it.

Now I have to watch specialEddy dance around in his minecraft suit
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSYSnKkKjOo



Go to Tests with codes and it walks ya through the dtc 12
http://bgbonline.celicatech.com/94_6gmanual/94_6gmanual.htm


And I got some good looking plugs from a Camry but Watch Out the plug is the same but the colors of the wires are not in the same place.

[kevin311]

What was so crazy about mine was the car never had a starting or even a running problem. It ran without a miss or a weird idle. Glad you resolved the issue. Thanks for the heads up on the Camry plug.

[VavAlephVav]

also that battery had a bad cell in it, filled the water up and it leaked right out. even though it still kept 12.4 volts and didn't crank slow like a 'bad' battery does it had much less current which was hard on the ignition coil at startup.