doing a 3S-GTE swap Options

[Smaay]

Ok i have been reading all the threads and I have a few questions for Dustin and others that have done this.

in Bsamps4 thread he says the fuel pump relay is in this box,


in the GT the fuel pump relay is also the Circuit opening relay which is mounted on the ECU. so what do I need to use?


also it seems like I have to pull pins from the EA1 on the GT chassis side? or do I just have to add pins to it to support the 3S-GTE EA1 engine side plug?

would it be easier to do the harness like I do the 1MZ swap. take both harness' apart and morph them into 1 good harness

[Smaay]

this is Dustin's picture, is this a ST205 diagram? it appears that there are 2 relays in the system? the COR and a FP relay. this is even more confusing to me.

[njccmd2002]

Same as the 2gr

[Smaay]

2GR has 2 relays in the system? I really dont see a need for this.

[njccmd2002]

well i went and reviewed several articles, and is supposed to prolong the life of the pump, by decreasing the output of fuel in times when car is at idle. it was only a 20 bucks for the fuel resistor, and one more relay to wire. no bid deal.

[Smaay]

looking at the drawings I really dont even see a need for the second relay. its just a bunch of extra wiring back and forth through EA1.

from what it looks like the second relay adds the fuel pump resistor. what im going to assume is that the ECU provides the FPR ground, tripping the FP relay, adding the resistor to the circuit. this lowers the voltage on the pump for low speeds or demands.

then under high demands the ECU FPR signal goes away, opening the FP relay allowing a full 12V to the pump.

the Supra does something similar but with its own ECU. most of us just bypass it so the pump has a full 12V all the time.

[Smaay]

another thing im noticing is the signal for the CEL on the ST205 the signal passes through II2 pin 7 and on the GT is passes through II1 pin 7. is this swapped? the only way to light the CEL on the GT is for the signal to pass through II1

[Batman722]

You are correct about the FP relay and resistor.
The FP sees 12v at start up, then switches over to 9v through the resistor. IIRC at more than 25% throttle at switches over to full 12v.
I've read about guys overseas just just giving full 12v to the pump at all times, not a big deal, just a gas saver the stock way.

The other thing, IIRC again some connectors are labeled different with JDM and US.
Check the other pins with those two connectors.

[Smaay]

You are correct about the FP relay and resistor.
The FP sees 12v at start up, then switches over to 9v through the resistor. IIRC at more than 25% throttle at switches over to full 12v.
I've read about guys overseas just just giving full 12v to the pump at all times, not a big deal, just a gas saver the stock way.

The other thing, IIRC again some connectors are labeled different with JDM and US.
Check the other pins with those two connectors.

perfect, thanks Dustin!!!

I have been staring at the drawings all day today and It looks to me like II1 and II2 are reversed between a 99 USDM GT and the ST205. The pin numbers all correspond.

now for the 65 million dollar question, which pins get the resistor across them to avoid the code 54? I searched the forums and couldnt find what I was looking for.


edit:::: http://www.gtfours.co.uk had all the info I needed, ill be making a good wiring writeup as well as I do this.

This post has been edited by Smaay: Jan 8, 2015 - 4:40 PM

[Batman722]

np.

Eliminating code 54 from the description on his site works great. I've done it to 3 st205 swaps without issue.
I used $2 resistors from Radio Shack. We need to seal/insulate them up here, they tend to get corroded over a couple of years, you shouldn't have any issues. Don't forget to bridge the level sensor on the IC.

Did you re-pin the clutch start switch wire ?

[Smaay]

i havent started anything yet, looking at the GT diagram the clutch start goes through IJ1 on pin 17. the 205 diagram does not show the circuit for the start signal. where does it need to go?


ok according to this http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=73495 take the wire out of pin 18 on one of the II plugs and stick it in pin 17 of IJ1. this is on the 205 harness side

This post has been edited by Smaay: Jan 8, 2015 - 8:16 PM

[Batman722]

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=82196

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...3105&st=140

some pics in both of those as well.

[Smaay]

i have seen the top one a few times, but the second one is a big help, thanks again!!!

[Smaay]

ok picked up the engine today. got the engien and trans for a really good price however they cut the harness right here



its missing the entire EA1 assembly and the fuel pump relay and intercooler pump relay. I think i can salvage most everything from a 5S harness that i have extra. a lot of wiring going through EA1 i can omit and do the code 54 bypass close to the ECU.

Dustin, Manny, anyone else, got any ideas?

[Smaay]

Started tearing the engine down today. it appears that I have a WRC version? I have seen threads talking about this manifold but I didnt really pay attention. So what do i have here?




I tried to split the engine and trans and got held up by 1 stupid ass bolt. its under the engine and in a hard to reach between the transfer case. Its rounded off and stuck. so ill have to figure out how to get it off.

here is where the harness was cut. so what all is in this bit?


and what is this little guy?



OMG there are a ton of hoses and VSV's under the intake manifold. is all that crap necessary? can I eliminate some of it?

This post has been edited by Smaay: Jan 12, 2015 - 12:07 AM

[bsamps4]

You will end up deleting a lot more than you'd expect! I think I have spare harness parts if you have trouble sourcing. I also have a ton of left over 3s parts.

[Smaay]

I have a USDM GT harness coming. I think i can use that. Unless you have a ST205 fuse box and EA1 assembly. i dont need the entire harness. just up to the part they cut off

[nsxtypeR]

Those pipes underneath the manifold heatshield are part of the anti-lag system toyota was using in wrc. They are non functinal on our cars though

[Smaay]

deleted


This post has been edited by Smaay: Aug 16, 2015 - 10:32 PM

[presure2]

yup, WRC version. lots of stuff there thats not active anyway, so most of it can be removed.
you can see how i removed all of those vac lines ect that run behind/around the intake manifold in my 3s swap thread that D linked, anything specific just hmu via facebook messenger.

::edit::
that last pic is the cat temp sensor for the JDM gauge cluster. if the cat gets clogged and overheats, there is a idiot light in the JDM cluster that lights. we always just delete it, cause it dont trigger the CEL.